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What's the most efficient fridge you've used?

edpelo
Explorer
Explorer
I'm currently running a cheap Coleman thermo-electric cooler. It actually draws 4 amps per hour and because there is no thermostat that 4 amps is constant, 24/7. I plan on spending large periods of time off the grid and am in the market for a compressor-type, 12 volt fridge that's very efficient and has a front opening door (no top loaders). I've been to Norcold, Dometic, Engel's websites and they all have pretty much the same info and specs. All run around 40 watts and claim around 3 to 3.5 amps. I suspect those numbers are misleading though. Is it 3 amps just to kick it on? Is it a realistic number with a thermostat controlling it so it won't be cooling constantly like my current solution does?

What is your experience with fridges. who makes the most efficient ones? How much draw does your fridge actually pull? Help me choose my new fridge!

Thanks in advance.
Eric
14 REPLIES 14

radio_man_7_262
Explorer
Explorer
Edpelo, I have a Norcold 12 volt and 110 volt Danfoss Compressor , in a 3.? Cu ft refrigerator , and as I travel , for the entire trip it runs on the 12volt 'coach battery . 19 hrs while boondocking and 5 hrs traveling. Battery is down 60 -75 percent after boondocking. Leveling not required-no flame to blow out while -traveling-cools down very quickly. Hope this info helps . Radio man 7.262
Bob and Jane
2006 Gulf Stream Vista Cruiser Sprinter
(name of sprinter "OMEGA", means the last one )

edpelo
Explorer
Explorer
landyacht318, thank you for the information and detailed response. Much appreciated!

landyacht318
Explorer
Explorer
http://www.westyventures.com/parts.html

I got a tracking number within 24 hours of placing the order. It shipped from Pompano Beach Florida from a Vitrifrigo distributor. I Don't think you can order directly from them but have to use the middleman.

I got the DC only model c51is. I'd rather have a real converter to power it and recharge the batteries when I plug into the grid, but for now my Schumacher battery charger on the 12 amp setting has no issues dealing with the cycling load of the compressor, and I've yet to acquire a real converter.

landyacht318
Explorer
Explorer
It should be noted that both my Norcold and Vitrifrigo had/have more insulation installed and sit in an insulated cabinet designed to promote airflow over the condensers, decreasing their battery draw by some percentage.

I also modified my Vitrifrigo with a quieter, more efficient 120mm condenser fan which sucks cold air from the floor below and pushes it through the condenser and across the compressor, and then out a vent in the body, so it cannot recycle any preheated air, for maximum efficiency.

I have 198 watts of solar and have no issues powering the fridge, not even a concern. I consume 25 to 40 amp hours after sundown until sunrise with fans laptop TV LED lights ect including fridge.

My Norcold's condenser was passive, but I did have an silent, low cfm additional fan rigged up to blow air across it full time.

I added 40mm fans to the interior of both fridges that run continuously. These allow much more even internal temps and quicker cool downs, but do not make the fridge use less battery power. They do however allow it to use a lower t stat setting to hold sub 39f temps.

I generally keep the VF on a setting of ~2.2 out of 7 to hold sub 39f. When I remember, and have excess solar amps available, I will turn it upto ~3 afternoon, then back down to 2.2 near sundown, then the duty cycle and battery consumed is lessened overnight. The internal fan allows me to better take advantage of the solar surplus by cooling down interior contents faster. If I forget to return the dial to 2.2, the milk jug might be slushy the next morning as internal temps fall to the 30 to 32f range.

The TruckFridges, while very similar to the Italian assembled Vitrifrigo, are assembled in China. I would not have been able to do my fan modification to push air through the condenser with the TF. I think the extra C note I spent on the VF, over the TF, was well worth it.

Originally the fan pulled air through the condenser. Pushing it is quieter. The extra insulation to fridge body and cabinet interior allowed this repositioning of the fan.

The Noctua NF-f12 fan was not much quieter when pulling air through the condenser, It was designed to push it through a restriction. While it is rated at 53 cfm and the fan it came with was 72 cfm, the Noctua has a higher static pressure rating, and the duty cycle seemed to lessen with the new fan pushing. Also the Noctua only draws 0.05 amps, the provided fan pulled 0.12 amps.

The Norcold's Sawafuji compressor was a buzzsaw in comparison to the Danfoss. I believe it failed due to low refrigerant, and recharging it would have cost as much as a new fridge. The Vitrifrigo is easily rechargeable.

The sawafuji did start up smoother than the danfoss, but while the sawafuji keeps getting louder and develops harmonics, the Danfoss gets quieter after the initial start up.

The compressor controller for the danfoss allows much more options such as changing compressor speed, and wiring an additional fan to power on with the compressor, as well as add a LED light to read trouble codes, and change the low battery voltage cutouts.

Faster compressor speeds are desirable for quicker cool downs, or for larger fridges, but basically the slowest speed is most efficient as long as duty cycle remains below 50%. The faster compressor speeds do lower duty cycle, but amp draw is increased while it is running.

Danfoss is now Secop and no longer European assembled. Hoping quality did not decline with the move to asia.

edpelo
Explorer
Explorer
@landyacht318 - where did you buy a Vitrifrigo at? I found their site but cannot find a distributor. I really like that the cooling component can be external and located a few feet away from the fridge. That would make venting it much easier for my rig.

edpelo
Explorer
Explorer
landyacht318 wrote:
My Norcold De0040 lasted a little over 5 years running 11 months a year

It was loud and vibrated a lot. 1.7 cubic feet, consumed about 18 to 20 amp hours per 24 hours, but there are many variables to that. My figure is 80 max f daytime ambients and minimal door openings.

When the Norcold failed, I replaced it with a Vitrifrigo. The Danfoss/Secop compressor is much quieter with no vibration.

Danfoss compressors speed are adjustable from 2000 to 3500 rpm.

The Norcold drew 2.7 amps running.

My Danfoss starts about 3.0 amps and tapers down to 2.5 amps within a minute of kicking on. I have it at 2000 rpm but it came with a resistor to run at 2500rpm and there it drew 3.6 amps that tapered to 3.2 by the end of the cycle.

The Vitrifrigo (1.8 cubic feet)is slightly more efficient than the Norcold, and much quieter.

Residential 120vac fridges run via an inverter will consume much more than a fridge designed for DC. The 130$ dorm fridge from lowes/HD is a False economy, unless you camp primarily with hookups and battery consumption is not an issue


Like you mentioned, the Home Depot fridge running via the inverter is not an option. I plan on being off the grid almost exclusively and for long periods of time. Fortunately I have 195 watts of solar so keeping a fridge by itself running shouldn't be an issue but I have other items that need juice too, hence my search for the most efficient fridge I can find (within a reasonable price range).

You said the Vitrifrigo is more efficient than the Norcold and the Norcold was averaging 18-20 amp hours per day? That's really good. I'll have to check them out. Some people on another forum have mentioned the Truck Fridge as a good option as well.

Seems the Danfoss compressor is a real winner in many different models...

crosscheck
Explorer
Explorer
NovaKool 7.5cuft ac/dc fridge/freezer(double door) that draws 4.7amps when cycling as per amp metre.

Keeps the beer cold and the frozen stuff solid. We almost exclusively boondock and almost never run the genny.

Dave
2016 F350 Diesel 4X4 CC SRW SB,
2016 Creekside 23RKS, 490W solar, 2000W Xantrex Freedom 2012 inverter, 4 6V GC-2 (450AH)
2006 F350 CC 4X4 sold
2011 Outfitter 9.5' sold
Some Of Our Fun:http://daveincoldstream.blogspot.ca/

landyacht318
Explorer
Explorer
My Norcold De0040 lasted a little over 5 years running 11 months a year

It was loud and vibrated a lot. 1.7 cubic feet, consumed about 18 to 20 amp hours per 24 hours, but there are many variables to that. My figure is 80 max f daytime ambients and minimal door openings.

When the Norcold failed, I replaced it with a Vitrifrigo. The Danfoss/Secop compressor is much quieter with no vibration.

Danfoss compressors speed are adjustable from 2000 to 3500 rpm.

The Norcold drew 2.7 amps running.

My Danfoss starts about 3.0 amps and tapers down to 2.5 amps within a minute of kicking on. I have it at 2000 rpm but it came with a resistor to run at 2500rpm and there it drew 3.6 amps that tapered to 3.2 by the end of the cycle.

The Vitrifrigo (1.8 cubic feet)is slightly more efficient than the Norcold, and much quieter.

Residential 120vac fridges run via an inverter will consume much more than a fridge designed for DC. The 130$ dorm fridge from lowes/HD is a False economy, unless you camp primarily with hookups and battery consumption is not an issue

mlts22
Explorer
Explorer
I have rambled about this before, but if someone combined a propane fuel cell, and a high efficiency compressor fridge, the RV industry would beat a path to their door. No more dead fridges if on a hill, the propane fuel cell would provide usable power and keep the house batteries charged as well as powering the fridge, and the beer would still get cold fast.

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
When I was looking at fridges for RV use, I noticed that Home Depot had more than one that would fit and for a bit more money, you could get one that was a LOT more efficient. I think it would be well worth the extra cash if it had to run on batteries at all.

atreis
Explorer
Explorer
Compressor fridges are more efficient than either evaporation (propane/electric dual-mode, what most of us have) or thermo-electric. However, it's easier to carry a large reserve capacity of propane than of electricity in batteries.
2021 Four Winds 26B on Chevy 4500

edpelo
Explorer
Explorer
stan909 wrote:
Here is the place to ask about compressor fridges. Sportsmobile forums Compressor type fridges are standard on all Sportsmobiles.Propane fridges are an extra option.The fridge/freezer I just bought (Dometic 18cf top loading) cycles on and off.I assume the same for the rest of the line.I don't know what it uses as far as amps per hour but it would be on the 3 amp side since I use it as a freezer because our fridge is only a fridge.I just bought a 155 watts solar panel and charge controller today and will install in the morning.The batteries cannot last longer than 20 hours with the freezer running but at 7 amps in full sun the solar should help greatly.I may even try running the fridge on DC as well, just as an experiment.


Thanks for pointing out the Sportsmobile forum. I'll post there shortly. Have fun setting up your solar! I have a 195 watt panel on my van's roof and it's really awesome. On a normal use day with full sun my batteries stay fully charged!

K_Charles
Explorer
Explorer
The most efficient fridge for me was the well in the woodshed when the power went out. It was right off the kitchen.

stan909
Explorer
Explorer
Here is the place to ask about compressor fridges. Sportsmobile forums Compressor type fridges are standard on all Sportsmobiles.Propane fridges are an extra option.The fridge/freezer I just bought (Dometic 18cf top loading) cycles on and off.I assume the same for the rest of the line.I don't know what it uses as far as amps per hour but it would be on the 3 amp side since I use it as a freezer because our fridge is only a fridge.I just bought a 155 watts solar panel and charge controller today and will install in the morning.The batteries cannot last longer than 20 hours with the freezer running but at 7 amps in full sun the solar should help greatly.I may even try running the fridge on DC as well, just as an experiment.