Would you drive a 1985 Class C with 130k 2,500 miles RT?

[Bixels]

Would you drive a 1985 Class C with 130k miles 2,500 miles RT? Recently purchased. Trying to decide if it's ok for long hauls or just short trips. Mechanic says it's in ok shape. Just needs a some maintenance. Thoughts?

[Jbrowland]

DrewE wrote:


If you go in with the expectation that everything will work perfectly, you'll stand a reasonable chance of being disappointed (and that's unfortunately also true often for newer RVs). If you go in with the expectation of having an adventure into the unknown and a sense of humor about what comes up, you're pretty likely to succeed and have a great time.

Very true! Expectations and a sense of adventure are so important. I assume something will break because eventually it will on a moving and vibrating house no matter the age of the RV.

[j-d]

Should be good. Small Block Chevy needs no introduction, anywhere on earth. Transmission'll be in the Turbo Hydramatic series (THM). Probably THM400, maybe THM350. Same characteristics as the Fords of that era, three speeds, no OK, no converter lockup.

Get that many miles and years, engine "accessories" like fuel and water pump, starter, alternator, become expendable maintenance items. When we had the '83 Ford, I carried a few spare parts: Starter, Solenoid, Alternator, Voltage Regulator, Ignition Coil, Ignition Module. Over the years, I replaced Starter and Alternator twice each, Regulator twice, Coil once. Module got so hot for so long, the epoxy "potting" melted and ran down the fender liner. Still ran fine, but I replaced it and cleaned/painted the area before I put the coach up for sale.

I think the 350 has a mechanical engine mounted fuel pump. Watch out for its condition, keep good filters in the system, watch for pinholes in any rubber hoses. Vapor lock is possible with this system. Should be a tiny fuel filter in the carburetor inlet. Replace it CAREFULLY then install an in-line filter before it. Never go back in there again. It's so small, it's an engine-stopper. And, the fine threads that retain the filter are easy to strip.

[Bixels]

1985 Fleetwood Jamboree. Chevy 350. Just replaced 4 tires (16.5") last week and the other 3 have date of 3514 on them. We think It was a steal of a deal, but are a bit hesitant about the long road trip. Our previous model was a 1997 Class A Fleetwood with half the miles. Took it on a two week trip to DC from Texas. Only problem was when the starter went out in West Virginia. This time we're thinking Texas to Florida. Thank you all for your input. It is very helpful. We are reading each and every reply. Enjoy your trips!

[DrewE]

I wouldn't hesitate to go on a long trip with such a vehicle, assuming it checks out mechanically. I would, at least for the first long trip, try to avoid having to adhere to a tight schedule. If you need to be 1500 miles away in three or four days, say for a wedding or something, then a breakdown could easily cause great consternation.

I would also be prepared (with available finances etc.) for the possibility of something breaking down. Most breakdowns would probably be something in the house part, and many of those often can be worked around with a little additional hassle or annoyance. You can keep food in a cooler rather than the fridge, you can heat water on the stove top rather than with the water heater, etc.

If you go in with the expectation that everything will work perfectly, you'll stand a reasonable chance of being disappointed (and that's unfortunately also true often for newer RVs). If you go in with the expectation of having an adventure into the unknown and a sense of humor about what comes up, you're pretty likely to succeed and have a great time.

[TyroneandGladys]

1986 with over 140,000 miles and a 3,400 mile trip planned this year. Something's we have discovered on the E350 chassis:
1. Had a air dam fabricated for under and just behind front bumper reduced the heat from the engine in the passenger area and on the dog house tremendously.
2. Had intermittent overheating issues ,the gauge would just pop to very top of normal, thoughts were sticking thermostat or fan clutch not functioning properly. Turned out it was not overheating, used infrared thermometer on upper radiator hose to verify temperature, but was resistor in the dash that was going out.
3 Tires might be rated to 80 PSI max but our rims rated for only 65 PSI max

[Jbrowland]

I bought my Ford class C with 130,000 miles and it runs like a champ but it has also been taken care of. The E350/450 will run well past 300,00 miles if maintained properly. It's the sitting around that kills most RV's and since it is older, I would worry about how long it sat before you bought it. Tires, as suggested, is the first place of many I would inspect. All that said, if you have done your due diligence, then no worries. Take it out and have a blast! I just returned from a two week trip and saw many rigs older than yours and still making memories for new owners. Good luck and enjoy!

[j-d]

To help with specifics, we need the OP to tell us not just "1985 Class C" but also the Chassis Make, Model and YEAR. Our "1984 Class C" turned out to be on a 1983 Ford E350 chassis which had 16.5" tires on "Coined" Lug-Piloted wheels, hard to find 16' replacements for. From what I understand, Ford went to Hub-Piloted 16.5" wheels in 1984 models. THOSE would interchange with later model E350/450 wheels, all the way to current date. Then not much later, 16" wheels, but I don't know that year.

What I DO know, is that if it's a 1980's Ford, transmission is the famously durable C6. Three forward speeds and no locking torque converter. It also means that without overdrive, standard since 1992, it'll turn up the same engine RPM at 60-MPH that overdrive will at 85-90. I didn't drive it much over 60. I don't think the OD really helps that much with MPG. The E350 was carbureted till about 1988 or 89, then EFI, then MPI till the 460 ended in 1996. My guess is that OD helps MPG by no more than 10%, same for MPI. Our current Class C has OD and MPI and gets 1 MPG less than the carbed one without OD. But it's 7' longer, 1' higher, 6" wider and weighs 3000 pounds more...

[time2roll]

In a heart beat. No fear, no worries.

[RedJeep]

We did. Go for it. In 2010 i bought a 1986 class C. Got it mechanically sound. First trip out was the start of a 5000 mile five week trip. Sure a few things broke but it was the trip of a lifetime and got me into RVing.

[kennyzzz]

when checking tires, you might be surprised to find it has 16.5 tries on it... try to find a spare tire in 16.5 size on a road trip is not easy... just trying to help.. better to know now then be stuck some place waiting for a tire.. so if 16.5 tires on it try finding a tire for it.
my buddys 1987 has 16.5 tires from 1978 on it. 😞

PS The date of manufacture is the last four digits of the DOT code. The first two digits are the week of manufacture, and the last two digits are the year. For example, if the last four digits of the DOT code are 0203, that means that the tire was manufactured during the second week of the year 2003.
http://www.tirebuyer.com/education/how-to-determine-the-age-of-your-tires

[Bordercollie]

If it's a typical old rig and has not been kept repaired and maintained and updated well, and you are not skilled in truck mechanics, RV body work, electrical, plumbing and gas operated appliance repair, you could spend over $10K on the rig the first year getting it ready and reliable for full enjoyable use with everything working properly. My advice, save your money and buy a 3-5 year old rig with everything working and new safe tires, if you and yours really want to enjoy RV-ing. Speaking from personal experience. Owning ad RV is a hobby in itself, like owning a cabin cruiser or an airplane.

[ksg5000]

If the mechanic says it's OK then yes - so long as it's a real mechanic and not an RV tech who usually knows a lot about RV stuff but wouldn't qualify as auto/truck mechanic. Agree with comments about tires which tend to rot from inside on RV's so outside looks don't give you the whole story. At a minimum I would have tire guy dismount the tires and inspect them - if they are real old tires I would even forgo that and buy new ones. If you buy new tires consider upgrading to E class but keep the tire pressure at D ... also - opinions vary on Tire mfg but many find that less expensive tires like Toyo work well on Class C's.

[Dreamer88]

rjxj wrote:
You can cover the basics but can never know for sure no matter what year it is. I have bought many used vehicles and always gone over the basics before trusting them. Tires, brakes, hoses, belts, water pump etc. 130,000 isn't that bad but years can be. If you are mechanically inclined you can carry tools but the most important tool is money. If I didn't have the money to fix whatever happens and put me up in a room or have the rig towed home then I'd stay home.

It's all about the maintenance of the vehicle !!!! When I purchase a new (used) vehicle I go over it with a fine tooth comb. Unless the previous owners can come up with invoices from reputable automotive repair ship I don't consider anything has been done. I start with replacing ALL the filters, ALL Rubber hoses, AT transmission filter, rear end fluid, ignition wires and associated parts. Check radiator & heater cores for signs of leaks or spongy cores. Replace automatically if vehicle is 15 yrs or older. On to breaks, new pads or shoes and break lines. Tires, yes unless DOT code is less than 3 yrs. Also dont forget to look at the drive shaft joints, and rear seals. Batteries, unless they 24-36 months old - replace them!!

I've done this religiously to ALL my vehicles across 50 yrs and have never been left stranded along side the road. Yes, my maintenance philosophy may be a little overboard. However, I give's me a baseline that I know that the item has been replaced / or maintained and I shouldn't have to worry about something breaking down or leaking out in the middle of Gods Country.

The same maintenance philosophy hold true for the Gen set, A/C, etc....

AL

[azrving]

You can cover the basics but can never know for sure no matter what year it is. I have bought many used vehicles and always gone over the basics before trusting them. Tires, brakes, hoses, belts, water pump etc. 130,000 isn't that bad but years can be. If you are mechanically inclined you can carry tools but the most important tool is money. If I didn't have the money to fix whatever happens and put me up in a room or have the rig towed home then I'd stay home.