โSep-21-2015 08:25 AM
โSep-29-2015 09:12 PM
DutchmenSport wrote:ksg5000 wrote:
If your not in a hurry .. go down to any hardware store a buy a bottle of septic tank cleaner. Dump the contents into the holding tank and fill it to the top with water ... wait a week or two and dump. It's not quick but it's easy.
This was going to be my suggestion. Fill your tank enough that water covers the bottom and everything that's built up. Get a box of Rid-X (for septic tanks) and dump in. Let it sit. Rid-x is a yeast (an emzine eater). It's important that it sit's and eats everything in it's path and decomposes it. So it may take a while, but, as stated above, very easy. After a week or so, rinse, rinse, rinse, and flush everything out.
If not Rid-X any emzine eater made to clean pipes will work too. It just has to sit!
โSep-28-2015 10:32 PM
โSep-28-2015 06:44 PM
myredracer wrote:
You can use Liquid Drano. When dumping, never dump it into a private on-site septic disposal system as it can cause serious damage to it. We've used it twice now and it returns your tank to clean and shiny inside like it was at the factory.
โSep-28-2015 02:58 PM
jfkmk wrote:
Ouch! I saw a video showing that the bag of ice trick has a very limited effect on the solids.
You might want to try filling the tank with water for a while to try to soften up the solids. If you have a built in tank sprayer try that. If not, the wands you stick down the toilet work pretty well. Kind of "power washes" the solids.
โSep-25-2015 07:58 AM
Wishbone51 wrote:Allworth wrote:
During typical winter storage, the tanks are 90% air and 10% liquid (at most).
Water expands 2.2% on freezing. Bad in a closed bottle or pipe, but...
The tank is now 97.8% (compressible) air and 12.2% ice. Even if the air were not vented through the roof, there would not be enough pressure difference to hurt the tank.
That makes sense, but I've seen an open bucket crack with a couple of inches of ice in it. Apparently it expands in all directions. This doesn't make sense to me. If it tries to expand and meet resistance, wouldn't it expand in a direction it could?
โSep-25-2015 07:32 AM
Allworth wrote:
The original post was about using a "vented" cap in winter! You might try reading the entire thread.
โSep-25-2015 05:51 AM
โSep-25-2015 05:34 AM
Knute1 wrote:
Hello all, new here and got some bad advice to keep my black water tank open constantly while hooked up at campground. Now I know otherwise. What can I do to get the contents of the tank broken up to drain completely? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ron
โSep-25-2015 04:00 AM
Allworth wrote:
The original post was about using a "vented" cap in winter! You might try reading the entire thread.
โSep-25-2015 02:46 AM
Allworth wrote:
The original post was about using a "vented" cap in winter! You might try reading the entire thread.
โSep-24-2015 02:51 PM
โSep-24-2015 02:19 PM
โSep-23-2015 04:07 PM
Allworth wrote:
During typical winter storage, the tanks are 90% air and 10% liquid (at most).
Water expands 2.2% on freezing. Bad in a closed bottle or pipe, but...
The tank is now 97.8% (compressible) air and 12.2% ice. Even if the air were not vented through the roof, there would not be enough pressure difference to hurt the tank.
โSep-23-2015 03:29 PM
Allworth wrote:
During typical winter storage, the tanks are 90% air and 10% liquid (at most).
Water expands 2.2% on freezing. Bad in a closed bottle or pipe, but...
The tank is now 97.8% (compressible) air and 12.2% ice. Even if the air were not vented through the roof, there would not be enough pressure difference to hurt the tank.
NOTE: This is only about tanks during normal storage; not full tanks, water heaters, pipes, toilets, or faucets.
Another solution is to move to Florida, park it in the back yard, and forget about winterizing.