Leveling on a Downward Slope

[MTHome]

My husband and I just purchased our first TT. It's a 23 ft Passport 195BR. We're learning the ropes and booked a site at a semi-local state park for July 4th weekend. I drove out to check the site and discovered it's got a pretty good downhill slope from the top of the site. Maybe it's just being new that makes it looks like a pretty good slope, but my first thought was how on earth are we going to get level on that?

I've got leveling blocks. Those yellow lego like ones. Any suggestions as the best way to do this?

[frankdamp]

When we pull in to a site, I check the bubble levels in the cab. If they're hard up against the ends, we ask for a different site or go looking for a different CG.

The only place we can't do this is when we visit duaghter and s-i-l and have to park on their driveway. We have to get the front wheels about 8" off the groundto be level fore/aft. Obviously, I don't back in, otherwise we'd have no parking brake. We need a two-step bathroom step-stool to reach the RV's bottom step!

I'm not sure if the front suspension will suffer long-term damage from hanging out off the ground.

[opnspaces]

catmancando wrote:
on our first trip we knew nothing about setting up or leveling our tt i took for granted that the breaks would lock when i unhooked dw was inside when it came off the ball needless to say she was upset when it hit the ground thank god the tongue jack dug into the ground or we would have been in lake lenor ga

For this reason I always disconnect the safety chains last. If you forget to chock the wheels, and the site is not level, at least the trailer won't end up in the lake. But to be fair I've read a lot of stories on here like yours. But I don't remember any posts where the trailer actually wound up in the lake. :B

[JAYHAWKERS]

Maybe this will help in leveling your TT. Buy a set of RV levels with the graduated scales Hopkins Graduated Level #08525 ( about $8,00 a pair) Each degree equals one inch either side of 0 (zero) .The Hopkins brand has both an adhesive strip and screw holes/and screws included. Attach the levels to the drivers side of the TT on the front corner and the side corner using the trim molding of the diamond plate in the front of the TT as an example for a reference point for level. The Yellow plastic or Links Levelers are one inch rise for each block, just add the number of degrees off center and stack the blocks as needed. Over three blocks high requires a stair step stack or the trailer tires will just skid on the asphalt. The State Park we usually camp at is from two to three inches out of level side to side and sometimes five or six inches front to back. One has to be "creative" in getting the front to back level.....front down near the ground means the back is way up in the air, (our entry door is at the rear) requiring a folding step and wood blocks for the rear stabilizers. Everyone has his or her ways to get the thing level and there is no right or wrong way, just be safe and CHOCK those tires before you unhook from the tow vehicle. Happy camping to you!

[frankdamp]

We're Class A owners rather than TT. On most motorhomes the parking brake works on the back wheels. Don't know how TT's are configured.

We make it a rule NEVER to lift the back wheels off the ground when levelling. If a site is that far out of level, we either ask fo another site or we turn the rig around and raise the front. A typical case is our daughter's house, where we stay regularly. The grade on their driveway requires to front wheels of the rig to be about 15" off the ground. We need a 2-step ladder to reach the bottom step of our retractable steps!

Once we're set up it isn't a problem. The rig is level, the fridge doesn't have a problem, we don't keep rolling out of bed! We almost need crampons and ice-picks to get to the door!

[catmancando]

on our first trip we knew nothing about setting up or leveling our tt i took for granted that the breaks would lock when i unhooked dw was inside when it came off the ball needless to say she was upset when it hit the ground thank god the tongue jack dug into the ground or we would have been in lake lenor ga

[Bumpyroad]

JC2 wrote:


2. 6-8 inch level from Lowes, Home Depot, hardware store to assist in leveling your rv. Don't get the cheapo round $2-3 ones.
.

I used a 6-8 inch one in the floor of my freezer compartment to initially level my motorhome. once leveled, I used a glob of silicone sealer to smush my cheapo round $2-3 one on the console to show level, and subsequently just used the elcheapo. leveling now a days is not so critical you need an 8 ft engineers special level to attain a satisfactory result.
bumpy

[JC2]

Another very important reason to "level" your rv is for the fridge. Use it enough times out of level and you will be replacing it. You should have the following to start with in your inventory:

1. leveling blocks or 2x6x12-15" ones(4)with the end of each cut at a 45 degree angle to drive up on. Maybe (2) 4x4x12" for placing under the tongue. Wheel chocks as others have mentioned.

2. 6-8 inch level from Lowes, Home Depot, hardware store to assist in leveling your rv. Don't get the cheapo round $2-3 ones.

3. Digital thermometer with a remote for the inside of the fridge to monitor temps.

4. 30a or 50a surge protector depending what you rig setup is.

5. Good tire pressure gauge.

[catmancando]

chock the wheels bfore you unhook

[x5rdman]

I park mine on a 14 degree down slop at home and get it level. Nice chocks and block the tongue up. If you are nervous try changing sites until you get comfortable with your unit.

[MTHome]

After some searching, I found a site for Friday-Monday rather than Thursday-Sunday. It's a bigger site and is more level. Thanks for all the advice. I'll keep it around in case we run into a similar situation again.

[Bumpyroad]

linnemj wrote:
I have cut up two boards into 18" lengths for leveling.

4"x4" for the tongue. If you stack then under the trailer tongue you can raise it up to level.

1"x4" for under the trailer tires to level side to side.

Remember to always chock the trailer wheels before unhooking the trailer, even if the site looks level.

unless you have really skinny tires, I would use 1 x 6s or wider so the sidewalls are supported.
bumpy

[boogie_4wheel]

Do you have any ramps that you could take with you? The ones like you would use to change oil...

I've used them before on the rear axle of the truck (leaving the trailer connected). Back up the ramps to gain the ~8" of height. It saves time on the jacking of the trailer, or you can even leave the truck connected to help keep the trailer from rolling away.

[linnemj]

I have cut up two boards into 18" lengths for leveling.

4"x4" for the tongue. If you stack then under the trailer tongue you can raise it up to level.

1"x4" for under the trailer tires to level side to side.

Remember to always chock the trailer wheels before unhooking the trailer, even if the site looks level.

[Bumpyroad]

dan-nickie wrote:
If you still can, I would pick out the spot I wanted and ask for my reservation to be changed.
If one is available, they typically don't mind.

yep that would be the first step.
bumpy