Tons of problems! Rv complete shutdown while driving?!

[Fla904]

Heading through North Carolina and my rv completely shut off when I stopped at a exit ramp. It was running fine and then all a sudden it completely shut off. It took me a few minutes to crank it back on and now it's running down the road. Two days ago it took a few seconds to start which has never happened before and when Ideling it was kind of shaky. I went and changed the fuel filter, oil, oil filter, and had all fluid levels checked. The battery's are showing all charged and were also checked as fine during the oil change. The ac quit blowing air out today (hot and cold) nothing comes out of the vents on any setting and then shortly after the rv completely turned off when I stopped at the stop sign and took a while to start back up. What's going on?! I can't afford to break down this far away from home!

[westend]

J Barca's plug work is on an '05 modular V10. That is the three valve engine. The OP's engine is pre-2004 so is the two valve modular. There may still be plug removal problems but not as likely.

If the OP doesn't want the hassle of plug replacement, I'd suggest to try replacing the COP on those cylinders that are not functioning. I have 180K on my truck with the original plugs and a single COP replacement got it back into good running condition. I know I'm overdue on plug replacement but the dealer is going to get that job.

[ol__yeller]

In a '98 V10, the plug blow out problem has nothing to do with the plug breaking issue in later models. The first few years of the V10, Ford only machined a few threads for the plugs into the heads. In later years, this issue was fixed. There is a correct way to install the plugs and if it is done correctly there is little chance the plugs will blow out. I didn't read the article but I assume it outlines the correct procedure. While plug blow out happens more than it should in the '98-99 versions of the V10, it was by no means a certainty that all would blow out. I had a '99 F250 V10 with over 100K on it and never had a plug blow. If your mechanic isn't aware of this issue or the correct procedure to install the plugs, it is time to find a new mechanic.

[Gene_Ginny]

I found the thread, it is on the Sunline forum from May of 2012. It is 3 pages and heavy on the pictures. Be prepared for a long and excellent read.
Plug change

Interesting that he starts with: This thread may help if you get into this OR seal the deal to not take it on yourself....

[Fla904]

And yes it's the v-10.

[Fla904]

Gene&Ginny wrote:
Is it the V10 engine? If so, rv.net member Jbarca has experience with changing the plugs and posted an excellent series of pictures of his experience, not sure where he posted or how long ago. Seems those plugs tend to break off when trying to remove them and getting the remaining stub out of the head is not for the weak at heart. He is also familiar with the plug blowout problem.

Awesome will try and find his page. Thanks!

[Gene_Ginny]

Is it the V10 engine? If so, rv.net member Jbarca has experience with changing the plugs and posted an excellent series of pictures of his experience, not sure where he posted or how long ago. Seems those plugs tend to break off when trying to remove them and getting the remaining stub out of the head is not for the weak at heart. He is also familiar with the plug blowout problem.

[Fla904]

Grit dog wrote:

Fla904 wrote:
Also, it runs fine at high speeds but shuts down when I slow down or stop. I have maintained this thing meticulously. I don't know what this could be?

Didn't you just buy this thing like last month? Your meticulous oil changes while criss crossing the country back n forth for whatever reason (We know you're not running drugs or your cop hassle story would have never been posted, lol) have little to do with how an 18 year old ill kept RV will run.
You need to separate the problems its having to diagnose and better describe what the symptoms are. But since you threw out that there appeared to be no power to the starter one minute and then it cranked fine the next, likely means shorted/corroded battery cables or grounds somewhere on the vehicle as about 10 people have said now.

Only went across once, in Asheville NC now. Took it to the mechanic and he said a few of the spark plugs are miss firing, forgot if it was 3-4. They couldn't find anything else wrong with it.. The battery and connection cables are all in great condition. So I'm going to replace the spark plugs and the spark plug coils, which he said is going to be around 600-800.00?! Sounds like a lot for that work. Only other thing he pointed out was the transmission fluid was a little low which I'll have some added when I get the work done. My issue now is from reading around I hear that this particular year and model engine has a problem with blowing spark plugs? I'm worried if I change them all out I'll have a blow out.. What can I do to prevent a blown spark plug after having them all changed? Doubt all mechanics know about this issue. Apparently the plugs need to have a very specific amount of torque, need to be blown out, add thread lube, and a few other steps. Seems very complicated and I don't want to cause further problems by changing the spark plugs but really don't have a choice. Anyone have some solid info on the spark plug blow out issue? Hard to fine definitive information about it.

[Grit_dog]

Fla904 wrote:
Also, it runs fine at high speeds but shuts down when I slow down or stop. I have maintained this thing meticulously. I don't know what this could be?

Didn't you just buy this thing like last month? Your meticulous oil changes while criss crossing the country back n forth for whatever reason (We know you're not running drugs or your cop hassle story would have never been posted, lol) have little to do with how an 18 year old ill kept RV will run.
You need to separate the problems its having to diagnose and better describe what the symptoms are. But since you threw out that there appeared to be no power to the starter one minute and then it cranked fine the next, likely means shorted/corroded battery cables or grounds somewhere on the vehicle as about 10 people have said now.

[hussbuss]

Check the positive battery cables. If you have 2 main cables coming off the battery there is a spacer between the cables. I had the same problem with my big block Chevy. Would shut off at stoplites etc. Found the spacer was corroaded away. Cables were tight and you cant see the spacer until you remove them. We got good at the wife holding the key to start while I got out and wiggled the cables to start. Could do it before the lite went green.

[mgirardo]

Fla904 wrote:
When it did shut off and I tried to re start it, it just clicked a bunch and never turned over and then all a sudden it started. No issues since.

I would check the terminal connectors of the battery. I had a similar issue where there was only clicking when trying to start the vehicle. I tested a few things and found the negative terminal connector was loose. I tightened it, but it didn't make a difference. The bare wires were pretty rusted, so I cut them off and removed some sheathing from the cable, re-attached the connector, tightened it down and it has started fine ever since.

-Michael

[Mont_G_J]

Fla904 wrote:
So the problem has not came about again.. Should I still take it to the mechanic? I feel like they won't know what the problem is as there's a multitude of things that could have caused it.. Battery's are fine (there's three new interstates in it). When it did shut off and I tried to re start it, it just clicked a bunch and never turned over and then all a sudden it started. No issues since.

Battery cable terminals corroded, loose, or defective cable. If it was my outfit I'd change them before I left town again. Common problem.

[IDoMyOwnStunts]

Fla904 wrote:
So the problem has not came about again.. Should I still take it to the mechanic? I feel like they won't know what the problem is as there's a multitude of things that could have caused it.. Battery's are fine (there's three new interstates in it). When it did shut off and I tried to re start it, it just clicked a bunch and never turned over and then all a sudden it started. No issues since.

Yes, you should go ahead and take it to your local mechanic. If it happened once and if you don't change anything, it can happen again. You don't want it to bite you again while on the road.

[Fla904]

So the problem has not came about again.. Should I still take it to the mechanic? I feel like they won't know what the problem is as there's a multitude of things that could have caused it.. Battery's are fine (there's three new interstates in it). When it did shut off and I tried to re start it, it just clicked a bunch and never turned over and then all a sudden it started. No issues since.

[STBRetired]

Have had this issue once with a lock-up torque converter which would not release until the engine had stopped. Try shifting to neutral before you come to a stop. If the engine keeps running, have the Ford guys look at your tranny.

[westend]

JaxDad wrote:
Sounds more like a dead chassis battery.

At highway speed the alternator is putting our power to run everything. But when you come to a stop the alternator is barely putting out a trickle I'm not keeping up with demand. Hilow things like the HVAC fan headlights brake lights and running lights eat up power.

At highway speed the alternator is putting out power to run everything. But when you come to a stop the alternator is barely putting out a trickle I'm not keeping up with demand. Hilow things like the HVAC fan headlights brake lights and running lights eat up power.

Get the chassis battery load tested ASAP

How would he be able to restart the engine if the chassis battery had failed?