50 amp to 30 amp

[rvnutts]

This is our first fiver with 50 amp. We will be staying in a 30 amp site. We have an adapter. I know we can only run one air conditioner at a time. Is there anything else I need to know?

[jplante4]

Correct. My Xantrex will bulk charge the batts at 125 amps DC if I let it. I normally leave the controller set to 30 amp service so it doesn't drag the genny down so far as to get the Progressive to kick off. In that mode, the Xantrex will shed loads to keep the load under the setting. What load does it shed? The charger.

[Bobbo]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

MrWizard wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
WH and Frig on GAS you CAN run Both AC's on 30A.

With Batteries Fully Charged

What do the batteries have to do with it?

With the batteries depleted, the converter/charger (or inverter/charger if that is what you have) pulls a SIGNIFICANT amount of energy in the attempt to recharge the batteries. I have a 55 amp converter/charger. That is 55 amps of 12v power. To get that you have to pull about 6 amps of 120v AC power. If you are on a 30 amp outlet, that is 20% of the power available. Not insignificant.

[Cummins12V98]

MrWizard wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
WH and Frig on GAS you CAN run Both AC's on 30A.

With Batteries Fully Charged

What do the batteries have to do with it?

[MrWizard]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
WH and Frig on GAS you CAN run Both AC's on 30A.

With Batteries Fully Charged

[Braces]

If you have the MicroAire Easy Start adaptors on both ACs you have a good chance that both will run on 30 Amp. Call Micro Aire and talk to their customer service reps.

[Cummins12V98]

WH and Frig on GAS you CAN run Both AC's on 30A.

[rvnutts]

Thanks all. I think I've got enough good advice to make it!

[jwandvassie]

Second Chance wrote:

Boomerweps wrote:
50 amp connectors actually supply TWO 50 amp hot lines. Normally each leg gets split between to two busses (buss bar) that each supply their own circuits.
So you may have some outlets and items that won't have power. I expect that each of your ACs is on separate busses.

However, the dogbone adapters split the available 30 amps between the two legs in the RV. You shouldn't have any problems with outlets or appliances not working.

Rob

X2

[time2roll]

If running the air I would have the water and fridge set to propane only.
Same as your previous 30 amp RV.

[TexasShadow]

we usually pop our breaker because we forget to turn off the electric hot water heater and then try to make coffee, run the microwave, etc etc.
🙂

[doxiemom11]

We have always been able to run 1 A/C and the refrigerator and water heater on electric. If we use the microwave or convection oven, then we shut one of the other thing off just so it doesn't try to kick on. We forget once in a while, but just reset the breaker and you are good to go. We also have a Progressive power manager.

[MrWizard]

your on 30amp

use this RV just like you did your 30 amp RV

(1) A/C, turn off A/C to use MW etc

just camp the way you did before

when you get the use of a 50amp site you can splurge and use more power, like both A/C units

[wa8yxm]

Fridge only draws about 300-400 watts so you can run it either way.
Water heater is 1200-1500 unless you do what I did and change the heat element
(I also had to put in a new tank but while I had it on the bench I pulled the 1500 watt 120 volt element and put in a 1500 watt 240 volt element. For a resistive circuit W=IE I=E/R so W=(E^2)/R so the element I use is 375 Watts.

I have yet to trip a 30 amp breaker since the mod. Both Fridge and WH on Electric. One A/C. I do cut it off for Microwaveing

[RoyB]

Like one of the post said - be sure to bring along a couple of 15/20A Extension cords and plug them into the 15A/20A Service receptacle at the site.... You can plug a few things into them by them self to help out... We do that all the time with our setup especially when we are running portable oil-filled space heaters etc...

Roy Ken