At what point do I need a WD hitch?

[swimmer_spe]

I have a '13 Ford F150 "heavy half"

I am having some issues when i tow and someone told me I should get a WD hitch.

My question is, at what weight with a stock half ton do you need to think about using a WD hitch?

[Grit_dog]

Whatever the issue is, a wdh on a sub 3000lb trailer behind a truck like that is not needed, nor will it do anything. Not enough tongue weight to make a difference.

[mkirsch]

swimmer_spe wrote:

time2roll wrote:
afaik 500+ tongue or 5,000+ trailer weight should have WDH.

Trailer is half that weight.

Then you don't need a WDH unless you have a very strange setup where the trailer has something like a 50% tongue weight.

[swimmer_spe]

time2roll wrote:
afaik 500+ tongue or 5,000+ trailer weight should have WDH.

Trailer is half that weight.

[time2roll]

afaik 500+ tongue or 5,000+ trailer weight should have WDH.

[blt2ski]

Bounce could STILL be shocks, depending upon the brand and type you had installed. Another bounce, could be sidewall flex. Springs on 15 series rigs are softer than a 25 or 35 series too! SHorter Wheel base rigs will bounce more than those with longer wheel bases too! You may have some or all of these issues!

Another as I am typing. If the trailer is loaded a bit lite on the hitch, it could aggravate the bounce by trying to lift the hitch as it bounces, especially Single axel trailer vs dual axels.

I've found with my SW 35 series rigs, if I have more than 400 lbs removed from the FA, using a WD is very much needed etc. But a 6000 lb trailer with around 700 lbs of HW< usually only removes 60-100 lbs off the front. My 1500 lb HW equipment trailer does put an 8500 GRAWR rig at 300 off the front, and a typical 6400 lbs RA at or about 400 lbs. A WD was really nice on this rig.

My TT was not needed with said 60-100 lbs off the front. BUT< with that said.....a basic WD will help reduce the side wind, side to side rocking of the trailer. A dual cam helped even more! I would swag a hensley or equal even more so.

[swimmer_spe]

BarneyS wrote:

Campfire Time wrote:

Bobbo wrote:
Measure the distance from the ground to the top point of the front wheel well, both before and after hooking up the trailer. If there is more than 1/2 inch difference, you need WD.

X2! Rear squat is not an indicator that a WDH is needed.

Even a fairly light trailer with a 150/1500 series truck can take enough weigh off the front to require a WDH.

He did not mention nor was he talking about rear squat. He was talking about the RISE of the front fender which would indicate weight being removed from the front axle.
Barney

Actually, I am not paying attention to what the front is doing. The back of the truck and the front of the trailer are bouncing madly. Thought it was shocks, changed them, and it still does it.

Sounds more and more like I may not *need* WD, but it would resolve the problem.

[BarneyS]

Campfire Time wrote:

Bobbo wrote:
Measure the distance from the ground to the top point of the front wheel well, both before and after hooking up the trailer. If there is more than 1/2 inch difference, you need WD.

X2! Rear squat is not an indicator that a WDH is needed.

Even a fairly light trailer with a 150/1500 series truck can take enough weigh off the front to require a WDH.

He did not mention nor was he talking about rear squat. He was talking about the RISE of the front fender which would indicate weight being removed from the front axle.
Barney

[Boomerweps]

You don't even need trailer brakes in my state, PA, at under 3K#!
Need a WDH? Depends on the truck. My SIL's Ram 2500 diesel rips his 5-6K toy hauler around no prob with no WDH.
With my former TV, a Ford Explorer, a fully loaded cargo trailer at 3-3.5K# porpoised like crazy. With my near 4K# TT and a WDH, no porpoising and towed in straightaways like the TV & TT were one unit. Made me wish I tried a WDH with my cargo trailer.
I may not NEED a WDH with the new F150 but I plan on using it for the solid feel I had with it before.

[Grit_dog]

Campfire Time wrote:

Bobbo wrote:
Measure the distance from the ground to the top point of the front wheel well, both before and after hooking up the trailer. If there is more than 1/2 inch difference, you need WD.

X2! Rear squat is not an indicator that a WDH is needed.

Even a fairly light trailer with a 150/1500 series truck can take enough weigh off the front to require a WDH.

Negative ghost rider. Unless said 150/1500 truck has the super trailer 3000lb springs or some aftermarket help in back.
If you do the math 500lbs giver take on the hitch doesn’t take much st all off the front axle.

[Grit_dog]

IdaD wrote:
I don't think you'd need a WDH for a 2600 lb trailer.

Agree, you don’t even have enough tongue weight to crank down at all on a wdh.
The issue is likely more akin to your expectations than a problem.
Trailer on....

[Campfire_Time]

Bobbo wrote:
Measure the distance from the ground to the top point of the front wheel well, both before and after hooking up the trailer. If there is more than 1/2 inch difference, you need WD.

X2! Rear squat is not an indicator that a WDH is needed.

Even a fairly light trailer with a 150/1500 series truck can take enough weigh off the front to require a WDH.

[Lwiddis]

If the trailer weighs 50% or more of the tow vehicle IMO.

[ppine]

I agree that you should start with the label on your trailer hitch. If you are within specs, then hook up your rig on a level surface and measure how far out of level you are. Measure from the top of the fender well front and rear, unloaded vs loaded.

IN practical terms, I had a hybrid trailer that only weighed around 3500 pounds. No WD hitch needed. My new trailer is around 5,500 pounds and I use a WD hitch. The older Class III hitch is only rated for 5,000 pounds without.

[IdaD]

I don't think you'd need a WDH for a 2600 lb trailer.

[Bobbo]

Measure the distance from the ground to the top point of the front wheel well, both before and after hooking up the trailer. If there is more than 1/2 inch difference, you need WD.