Bought new TT today, 2016 Stealth, worried I cant pull it!

[AMG1978]

Today I bought a 2016 Forest River Stealth WA2916 toy hauler. I have a 2015 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost, 6.5' bed, 4x4, SuperCrew, MaxTow package, 3.55 axle, 157" wheelbase. ford site: http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/towingguides/15RV&TT_Ford_F150_r1_Jan12.pdf

My truck shows with a full 36 gallon tank, I have a payload of 1630lbs (with a full tank, @ 300lbs of fuel). Ford.com shows my maximum loaded trailer weight of 11,700lbs. I planned on using an Anderson WDH with "no-sway". I haven't bought it yet, but will. I used a ProSeries bar unit on my current TT, and it was noisy, heavy, and couldn't back up. Want something better. (http://www.amazon.com/Andersen-3380-Distribution-Universal-Brackets/dp/B006X21BH0).

My truck has AirLift airbags installed too. I do not plan on having anything in the bed of the truck, simply myself, my wife, son, daughter and dog in the cab. In the rear of the toy hauler, I thought any weight REAR of the axles (dirt bikes, boxes, gear, etc.) may reduce the hitch weight, am I grasping on this one? I definitely have no plans to load it up anywhere near the max. I don't own sand rails or quads, just a few motorcycles and normal gear. We keep minimal water in it until we get to close to where we are going, or where we are going directly, then fill 'er up.

My biggest concern right now is the hitch weight on their site shows 1025lbs, I can't say what the ACTUAL hitch weight is on this model, it hasn't been delivered to the dealer yet, but we did sign papers and put $1,000 down.

Am I crazy?
Do I scramble this week to trade my F-150 in on an F-250?
I might add, that I am replacing my 25' TT that weighs about 1/2 dry (4000'ish) and a 500lb hitch weight. I pulled it with ease.

Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum recommended limit of 640px maximum width.

[AMG1978]

taken wrote:
Glad I could help. I certainly don't think towing it home and taking your time deciding if you need a new TV and if so the right one will be a life threatening event! Never rush into a purchase this big. It's not like a pair of shorts you can return to the store or a DVD player you can ship back to Amazon. Try your truck, weight it, then take a break. You will have a great new RV to play with for a while (read: obsess about) and when the excitement starts to die down and you can start to think clearly again... ;), then start to assess the truck situation with fresh eyes and lots of insight.

Thanks! I am a bit of ***** when I tow too. I try not to exceed 55mph and even up some steeper grades I do 45-50 just purely to save on MPG. Even with my 4000lb trailer i kept it cool up grades as when I put the pedal down and the turbos spool all I hear is $$$. So I dont have any desire to be the yahoo driving 75mph with the rear of his truck sagged to the floor, which I will add -- I have seen many of these!!

[taken]

Glad I could help. I certainly don't think towing it home and taking your time deciding if you need a new TV and if so the right one will be a life threatening event! Never rush into a purchase this big. It's not like a pair of shorts you can return to the store or a DVD player you can ship back to Amazon. Try your truck, weight it, then take a break. You will have a great new RV to play with for a while (read: obsess about) and when the excitement starts to die down and you can start to think clearly again... ;), then start to assess the truck situation with fresh eyes and lots of insight.

[AMG1978]

I just got off the phone with FR and he said the same thing, each one is weighed and the weights should be real accurate. he mentioned that if you load in the rear a few heavy items it really reduces the tongue weight since the axles are further up. He once again preached that the bigger the TV is always nice. He said the same thing though that if I am within the spec, to think of giving it a try and reevaluate upgrading later. My wife is A-OK with upgrading, she just doesnt like the idea of us scrambling by Friday to find a way to do this. If it meant we took our time and looked around and found a better fit and didnt lose *as much* money or a wash on an older F-250 or 2500/3500 etc. then Ok.

I still wanna find a scale too and get to the bottom of that. thanks for the helpful words.

taken wrote:
FR aren't lying about their weights being very accurate from the factory. My current rig was within 100# of their scaled weight after adding batteries and filling the propane tanks. They also have lower tongue and pin weights than many other brands due to axle placement. This is what got me started looking into XLR in the first place. Most brands with the same floor plan as mine were over 1k more on the pin and I didn't want the truck required for that. Your water tanks are likely directly over the axles as are most toy haulers so that should be a negative impact. Garage weight will also mitigate tongue weight as some pointed out. Also, filling the 40 gallon fuel station will help remove some tongue weight. As to the bottom line, I would agree with the couple of posters that told you that yes, your truck will likely do it but will be taxed and you MAY not be happy. If it were me, I'd try it before upgrading the truck. You're not grossly overweight and may not feel the need to upgrade your truck right away. However, if you truly uncomfortable and want to walk, most states make it illegal to keep a deposit on an in stock vehicle.

[taken]

FR aren't lying about their weights being very accurate from the factory. My current rig was within 100# of their scaled weight after adding batteries and filling the propane tanks. They also have lower tongue and pin weights than many other brands due to axle placement. This is what got me started looking into XLR in the first place. Most brands with the same floor plan as mine were over 1k more on the pin and I didn't want the truck required for that. Your water tanks are likely directly over the axles as are most toy haulers so that should be a negative impact. Garage weight will also mitigate tongue weight as some pointed out. Also, filling the 40 gallon fuel station will help remove some tongue weight. As to the bottom line, I would agree with the couple of posters that told you that yes, your truck will likely do it but will be taxed and you MAY not be happy. If it were me, I'd try it before upgrading the truck. You're not grossly overweight and may not feel the need to upgrade your truck right away. However, if you truly uncomfortable and want to walk, most states make it illegal to keep a deposit on an in stock vehicle.

[AMG1978]

I wish there was a scale near me. I did speak with Forest River and he was talking about how the tongue weight is spot on with all the models as they weigh them from the factory, no batteries, 2 propane tanks empty, but adding the 2 batteries plus full tanks, isnt 100% weight right to the hitch, but part of it is. Then he talked a lot about putting the toys in the rear, the weight does decrease the tongue a bit depending on how many toys you add. I am mostly concerned with an empty trailer at that sub 9K lbs, but the tongue weight there. He said he does know people pull them with F-150's, and admits more TV is always a good thing. He recommended I work with Giant RV on this though.

I wish there was a scale close by. they are far. I am going to see if another place may have scales other than CAT. I'd like to know the weight of my truck for real, then IF we buy this, I want to hitch it up and weigh again.

[APT]

I think you need to first decide what is more important. Getting the TT you want or the TV you want/have. I'll assume that since you just purchased a new truck at $40k+ and are shopping a $25k+ RV, then you can find a solution in your budget to make one or the other one work.

[badercubed]

So I had a 2013 F-150 Crew Cab Max Tow and rushed into purchasing a 35ft TT. The truck handled the 9600lb trailer with 1300lb tongue weight admirably, but I could tell I was undersized after making a few trips.

Will it do it? Yes.
Will you be pleased? Maybe to start.

I upgraded my truck because once I got the new trailer I wanted to take longer trips. I wasn't comfortable going on a 2,000mi ride with it. A 200mi ride, I could bear it

[Bedlam]

AMG1978 wrote:
I looked at my truck and my tires have a load rating 113T, which I dont believe is "E" equivalent?

GVWR 7050lb
Front GAWR 3600lb
Rear GAWR = 3800lb
Payload Sticker = 1631 LB. This has a note saying indicated with FULL tank of 36 gallons (which is 300LB)

A tire load index of 113 is equivalent to a 2535 lb rating.

http://www.tiresplus.com/shop-for-tires/tire-buying-guide/tire-load-index-chart/

[BenK]

Mike is spot on...here is the example of what he says...

Most half ton's have RGAWR's in the +4K range

Next higher class will have RGAWR's in the +6K range

About 2,000 pounds more RATINGs

I rarely say "sure you can", nor "no you shouldn't"....but....for this OP...say
you 'can do it', but not for long, nor very well...

I'd not do it and from one who has towed an approx 14,000 lb utility trailer
with my HD half ton, which has a GVWR of 6,200 lbs...am lucky to be alive. Yes
it could and did do it...but not well, nor safely... I still have that Silverado
listed in my sig

[Mike_E_]

The Rear GAWR may be close. If you can run it over the scale empty to see what your unloaded Rear axle is, then you will get an idea of what it has left for your tongue weight etc.

The payload is 1631 minus your weight over the 150 lbs they allow in that number, the weight of your DW and children/dog, and WD hitch shank equals what you will have available for tongue weight....could be close.

Again, the scales will tell the whole story.

You're right, they won't like it, but it lets them know that you want them to prove that your truck is capable.

Not sure about the tire rating number you have there. The tires should be stamped with a Max Load rating on them in pounds.

[BenK]

Agree...the $1K deposit is many, many times less than the cost of the next higher
class TV

I'd go back and demand...either switch to a smaller/less weight trailer or outright
deposit back... Threaten to take them to the BBB and any other agency/media
you have available...with that signed contract absolving them AFTER they told you
the lies

Take this diagram with you, if you should go back out shopping. Plug in the
'actual' weights. If none available, then use their maximum ratings (GVWR) to
figure. Here is the generic formula:

GCWR => TV + TT + stuff

Stuff as in cargo, people, pets, ice chest, food in the frig, hitch system,
etc, etc, etc

howmuchshoulditow howmuchcanitow

[AMG1978]

Mike E. wrote:
Seeing how you have put a deposit on a trailer you obviously love (buying it at first sight ), before going into panic mode maybe do these things...

1) As APT mentioned, check your actual payload as per the yellow sticker on your door pillar.
2) Confirm you Rear Axle Weight Rating (RAWR)...this along with your tire's Load ratings are VERY important
3) Check your hitch rating....guessing an upgrade is in order
4) When you pick it up at the dealer, have them set up the weight distribution hitch and tell them that you are going to the closest set of scales to confirm the numbers BEFORE you give them final payment. If you are over on any of the ratings, take it back to them and go from there. There's no way that their sheet of paper you signed will absolve them from the lialbility of selling you a trailer your truck cannot handle.

On the plus side, if the scales show that you are OK, then use the numbers to know what and how you can load up your truck and trailer to stay within the ratings.

If you are a little over on GVWR and YOU are comfortable with towing like that until you upgrade your truck then I'd say go for it....carefully mind you....just don't be one of the allstars towing at 75MPH weaving in and out of traffic (rare, but I've seen it).

If over on RAWR and tire ratings....then you need to upgrade the truck ASAP.

It's not like your vehicle and family are going to burst into flames if you are a couple hundred pounds over GVWR, but it is a consideration you will have to deal with in terms of your truck's longevity.

So, take a breath, check your numbers and go from there.

Mike

good info. I dont know how well the "let me take it to a scale and not pay you for it, and if all is good, i'll pay you" being that it is being financed by a bank they put us with, I think it's they get fully paid, or not at all.

I looked at my truck and my tires have a load rating 113T, which I dont believe is "E" equivalent?

GVWR 7050lb
Front GAWR 3600lb
Rear GAWR = 3800lb
Payload Sticker = 1631 LB. This has a note saying indicated with FULL tank of 36 gallons (which is 300LB)

[downtheroad]

Please don't tell me that these guys also talked you into an extended service plan and the paint and upholstery protection package.

[Mike_E_]

Seeing how you have put a deposit on a trailer you obviously love (buying it at first sight ), before going into panic mode maybe do these things...

1) As APT mentioned, check your actual payload as per the yellow sticker on your door pillar.
2) Confirm you Rear Axle Weight Rating (RAWR)...this along with your tire's Load ratings are VERY important
3) Check your hitch rating....guessing an upgrade is in order
4) When you pick it up at the dealer, have them set up the weight distribution hitch and tell them that you are going to the closest set of scales to confirm the numbers BEFORE you give them final payment. If you are over on any of the ratings, take it back to them and go from there. There's no way that their sheet of paper you signed will absolve them from the lialbility of selling you a trailer your truck cannot handle.

On the plus side, if the scales show that you are OK, then use the numbers to know what and how you can load up your truck and trailer to stay within the ratings.

If you are a little over on GVWR and YOU are comfortable with towing like that until you upgrade your truck then I'd say go for it....carefully mind you....just don't be one of the allstars towing at 75MPH weaving in and out of traffic (rare, but I've seen it).

If over on RAWR and tire ratings....then you need to upgrade the truck ASAP.

It's not like your vehicle and family are going to burst into flames if you are a couple hundred pounds over GVWR, but it is a consideration you will have to deal with in terms of your truck's longevity.

So, take a breath, check your numbers and go from there.

Mike

[vic46]

AMG1978 wrote:

downtheroad wrote:
Can't give you good news either. You could be looking at around 1400 lbs of tongue weight alone when trip ready loaded...

You have a really nice truck, but not for that trailer.

Just asking...did the dealer tell you that you could, "pull it - no problem."

Yes, they did and they even brought out a few different "supposed gurus" to go over ford.com specs, and they all said, yes we can pull it no problem. Then they had us sign a sheet of paper that says we understand they make no claims to what we can pull, absolving them of any liability.

So the dealership personnel told you all was well with the 150 and then asked you to sign a liability waiver in favour of the dealership.

RUN FOREST, RUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!