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Dry rot screw holes, how to fix it?

lamopar
Explorer
Explorer
My outside light that is over my fuel station has leaked water and the screw holes are in bad enough shape they won't hold the screws. Looking for an idea on what to get into the screw holes to help with the lack of support. I can get to the back of some of them and will just use longer screws and add wood to the inside. There are some I can't to so I need to get something in the holes to help support. I will use adhesive silicon on the back of the plastic for additional support as well as caulking the edge and each screw hole.

Any ideas or recommendations?
14 REPLIES 14

WTP-GC
Explorer
Explorer
Veebyes wrote:
Inject some epoxy. All kinds of things would work but best to use something that will flow into the rotted section & harden up.

This is the best method without cutting out rotted sections. Put the screw in before the epoxy hardens. We've done this when building boats and if it works for that, it'll work for an RV.
Duramax + Grand Design 5er + B & W Companion
SBGTF

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
As long as the rotted holes aren't large enough to poke a finger through, I'd move the light up/down or left/right a bit, drill some pilot holes and re-attach. Use a little caulk in the old holes. Some Proflex around the light will help it stick too. But may depend on type and size of the light.

Matchsticks will work sometimes because they're fatter than a toothpick. Can be shaved as needed with a sharp knife. As mentioned above, epoxy could be a good option.

Never use silicone caulk on the exterior of an RV...

Veebyes
Explorer II
Explorer II
Inject some epoxy. All kinds of things would work but best to use something that will flow into the rotted section & harden up.
Boat: 32' 1996 Albin 32+2, single Cummins 315hp
40+ night per year overnighter

2007 Alpenlite 34RLR
2006 Chevy 3500 LT, CC,LB 6.6L Diesel

Ham Radio: VP9KL, IRLP node 7995

bartlettj
Explorer
Explorer
If it's bad, I just get some 1/4 or 1/2" hardwood doweling, drill a hole the same size, and glue the dowel in. Then, once the glue is hard, cut the dowel off flush with a flush cut saw, and drill a pilot hole for a screw in the dowel. If that doesn't hold, I rethink my life choices and then get ready for major surgery.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
The grain in tooth picks runs the wrong way for much in the way of strength. Paper is cellulose and so is wood. It is a bit more trouble to use the paper--but it holds well once it has cured.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
It depends on how bad the wood is rotted underneath. I went from the multiple tooth pick trick to cutting a triangle from oak or pine (depending on the load it will see), with a pointed tip that goes into the over sized hole which I tap in with a hammer. The triangle bites into the underlying wood and also the outer FG layer. The triangle shape prevents the torque from the screw from turning the insert. I fixed a friends awning support bracket this way when he scraped it against a tree.

lamopar
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the helping ideas. I am still ensuring the area is totally dry before I put the light back on. I have it covered in plastic and tape waiting on some more dry hot days. Love the RV forum as I have always been able to get ideas and help.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Stuff the hole with Kleenex. Put the screw in. Then back it out. Treat the Kleenex with water thin CA glue. Let it dry. Return the screw to its new threaded holder. Be sure to turn the screw backwards first so it will "click" into the threads that were cut into the Kleenex.

I would treat the whole area with wood restorer, too.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Dick_B
Explorer
Explorer
Minwax has a product called Wood Hardener available at Ace hardware and others. Squirt it into the wood and wait a day or so. If the wood is really bad (rotted, etc.) there is a product called Wood Epox (Ace) that mixes like putty and hardens like wood. Check out Ron Hazleton's videos on how to use it.
Dick_B
2003 SunnyBrook 27FKS
2011 3/4 T Chevrolet Suburban
Equal-i-zer Hitch
One wife, two electric bikes (both Currie Tech Path+ models)

1492
Moderator
Moderator
Moved from Forum Technical Support

BB_TX
Nomad
Nomad
Gorilla glue works well. Put a little on the screw threads before inserting the screws. It expands as it cures and fills the hole.

raygreg
Explorer
Explorer
a golf tee will work on some holes.

SAR_Tracker
Explorer
Explorer
Dip toothpicks in exterior wood glue, and insert the toothpicks until the hole is filled. Allow to dry over night. Re-drill a pilot hole and put the screw in. Job done.
Rusty & Cheryl
2011 F250 2WD 6.2L Gasser
2008 Weekend Warrior FB2100
"Common sense is in spite of, not the result of, education" - Victor Hugo (1802-1885)

rockhillmanor
Explorer
Explorer
I've had luck with using Liquid Nails squirted into the hole then put screw in. Depends how bad it is.

We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned,
so as to have the life that is waiting for us.