Dual Cam ripped out of frame now what?

[Frozen001]

SO we went out on a quick weekend trip Friday. It has been raining on and off in Central NY, so the ground is pretty wet. Friday it rained all day, we get to the site, and it is obvious that the ground is wet buy the "mini pond" the site has (the fire pit). I back in and use the links levered on the curb side since it was low. (two high). I unhook move the truck out of the road. At this point all is good. Wheel chuck in place, and I am starting my arrival routine. I start by lowering the curbside front stabilizer . It touches the ground and I give it a little tension when I notice it... "Did the trailer move"... naaa I say. Half a turn turn more and it happens. The trailer pivots and comes crashing down. I jumped out of the way as it happened even though it was moving away from me.

The tongue jack is now buried in the ground, my wooden block I use on the jack is all the kept it jack from sinking completely into the ground. The stabilizer jack is mangled, and the road side dual cam bar rolled under the trailer and in the process ripped the self taping bolts from their holes.

Looking at the wheel chocks now... and the trailer rolled right over them since the tops of them are now even with the ground. The ground was so wet they sunk right in the ground.

Lesson one: Buy the X Chock to use in addition to the normal wheel chocks.

Lesson Two: Chain up dual cams prior to doing anything with the stabilizers

Now my question: What can I do to get my dual cam back on the trailer. The current bolts are useless in the holes that are there. The only options that come to mind are have a plate welded to the frame (both sides to keep the dual cams in the same locations). Or through bolt the bracket. My trailer has a box frame, so I do not know if this will work.

Thought?

[SteveAE]

Frozen001 wrote:

SteveAE wrote:
I had two of the Reese dual cam self tapping bolt mounting threads strip out. Wound up replacing all four with through bolts (5 grade) through the frame with a large washer and Nylock nut on the end. Worked great.

Steve

Was your frame a box/tube type?

Yes

[Community Alumni]

When one of my original DC frame bracket screws decided it didn't want to remain properly torqued a couple of years ago, I went with thru-bolts on my tube A-frame and used backer-plates to avoid compromising the tube frame:





Note: I did put the jam nut back on the lag bolt.


Did the same thing with my snap-up brackets do to my heavy 1,300lb loaded tongue weight.

Bob

[3_0charlie]

SteveAE wrote:
I had two of the Reese dual cam self tapping bolt mounting threads strip out. Wound up replacing all four with through bolts (5 grade) through the frame with a large washer and Nylock nut on the end. Worked great.

Steve

Exactly what I did when I first installed the DC setup (box frame). Snug torque only with a regular nut and LockTite on the threads. Works like a charm.

[I_am_still_wayn]

Frozen001 wrote:
I heard from Reese (Cequent):

"Yes you can use long bolts, grade 5 or 8. Only concern would be not to crush the frame. May want to make the hole bigger on the inboard side of the frame and put a tube spacer inside the frame."

Has anyone else done this on a box frame trailer?

This is actually very good advice from the manufacturer. I would follow it exactly.

[mbopp]

Two of my DC holes stripped on my old trailer. I gas-welded them around the edges, then used a rat-tail file to open them up to 7/16" again for the original self-threading bolts.

Or you could just through-bolt them......

[BenK]

Two things

#1, I'd either weld on a backing plate to re-drill AND TAP a new threaded hole

#2, In design, the 'failure' sequence can/will have 'where' you want it to break
'first' and then the sequencing there after

Would you prefer to have the bolts shear and/or pull out before damaging the
WD Hitch Cam system?

By going over board on the 'new' bolt scheme, you could then have the fasteners
survive but the component/system then fail

Also, when do you want this failure sequence to happen?

Out on the road or when maneuvering around to position or park the setup?

Finally...that condition is on the rare side and/or take measures for the next time.

Better wheel chocks, better 'load distribution' pads for all (tongue jack, wheels, etc)

I have 4x4 and if the ground that saturated...I'd look and check into another
site. Been there done that too often and why I'll never go without 4x4 in any
of my trucks (unless buying used and really want that one without 4x4)...yes
there are some who say never got stuck with 2WD, but I'm not that good of a
driver...or that lucky... 🙂

[Frozen001]

SteveAE wrote:
I had two of the Reese dual cam self tapping bolt mounting threads strip out. Wound up replacing all four with through bolts (5 grade) through the frame with a large washer and Nylock nut on the end. Worked great.

Steve

Was your frame a box/tube type?

[SteveAE]

I had two of the Reese dual cam self tapping bolt mounting threads strip out. Wound up replacing all four with through bolts (5 grade) through the frame with a large washer and Nylock nut on the end. Worked great.

Steve

[Frozen001]

I heard from Reese (Cequent):

"Yes you can use long bolts, grade 5 or 8. Only concern would be not to crush the frame. May want to make the hole bigger on the inboard side of the frame and put a tube spacer inside the frame."

Has anyone else done this on a box frame trailer?

[TugCE]

Is there any chance of going up a size in the bolts that ripped out? Another fix would to get a flat plate that is bigger and drill and bolt it in place then drill it for the hitch and bolt it back in place. If you can do this where you are you can always get it welded up when you get home.

[Airstreamer67]

I think I'd drill a hole through the other side of the box frame, put large washes on both sides, and use a bolt-and-nut. Then, I'd do the same on the opposite side.

Hope you have better luck next time. I hate soggy ground.