Escalade/Denali or Suburban 2500

[Gold]

I’m considering buying a 2010 Escalade/Yukon XL Denali or a similar year Suburban 2500.
I currently have a great running 2003 Suburban 1500 5.3L 285hp autoride which I’ve upgraded with stiffer z51 springs and has fresh GM autoride shocks. I recently obtained a 20 foot v-nose toy hauler, I’m guessing the weight of the loaded trailer (and people/cargo in the suburban) is 6,000 lbs. Fortunately it’s very level and stable when towing because I can’t have a WDH as the v-nose on the trailer prevents a WDH from being used.
My issue is that I simply run out of power with the Suburban. I can’t use cruise control on the highway as just the slightest incline (or even the wake of a truck) will cause the Suburban to gear hunt, and even when not using cruise control it’s hard to maintain 60 mph.
I’m considering either a 2010 Escalade ESV/Yukon Denali XL (both have 6.2L 402HP 1500 chassis), or a similar year Suburban 2500 which has the 6L 355HP 2500 chassis.
I’m more attracted to the Escalade/Denali as they are quite a bit less expensive and exponentially easier to find (and have a bigger engine and 47 more HP), but can it tow ‘as fast’ as the Escalade/Denali despite it having 47 less HP that I should consider it. Thank you in advance for your insight.

[Grit_dog]

GMT400s are still best of the breed on several accounts, IMO. Anything older will require this n that for repairs. Since "there's no demand" for HD suvs as some claim, you'd think they'd be paying you to take them gas hogs, but around here, a Burb like BenK's with low 100s for miles is a $10k rig.
IMO, the GMT 400s generally didn't have any fatal flaws (if you don't get into the 6.5 diesels...) and relatively easy to improve certain aspects, like the dually rear wheel cylinders. I did that cheap mod years ago, it was great.
Only thing better is if you could get a GMT 400 big block K2500 burb with the NV4500 that you could get in the pickups!

[BenK]

falconbrother,

Here is my 1996 GMT400, K3500, 7.4L, 4.11, Suburban's picture. Tongue-on-cheek K3500 because ordered it with the F60 option. Which is snow plow prep package, which gets the 1 ton front suspension torsion bars and since the rear end is the same as the 1 ton dully of that year... :B




Sold the boat and only occasional borrow a TT to camp with

Itching to 'have' to rebuild the engine and then an of course the tranny & rest of the drive train. Plus 4.88 or 5.xx front and rear diffs with a GearVendors 0.75 over drive to give an 8 speed setup.

If the OP doesn't mind an older Suburban, there are a few out there that were still truck like.

GMT400 has a few things that need to be addressed and improved. Mainly the brakes, but after converting mine to the same rear dually brakes...nose bleed braking. Even touchy, which is okay with me

[falconbrother]

I tow my travel trailer with a 2000 Suburban, 5.3, Sumo SuperSprings. It's 5800 dry. I figure, without water, I'm still plenty over 6,000 Lbs. Yeah, it's slow going and I drive it easy. I have looked at 2500 series Suburbans, Avalanches, etc.. With the 8.0 they are a little cheaper but, I don't want that engine. The 6.0 versions can be quite expensive, considering year and mileage. I keep kicking myself because I saw a 1996, 2500-454 V-8, 4x4, low miles on a lot a couple of years ago reasonably cheap. And it was as shiny as a new penny. I passed on it. That 454 is a hoss and would have been a great vehicle for towing. Not much of a daily driver mind you.. I keep passively looking. And I haven't ruled out a 3/4 ton Chevy or GMC van with the 6.0.

BTW, the chassis does fine. No complaints with the WDH. And, if you could ride around at 3200+ RPMs the power would be fine..

[cptqueeg]

Burb 2500 all the way towing 6000lbs. They could be ordered w 3.73 or 4.10. It's worth the extra $$ to have the heavier running gear.

[APT]

All 3/4 ton Suburbans (and Yukon XLs) 2008-2013 have 3.73 axle ratios. That helps make up some power difference from the 6.2L with 3.42 axles, but the 3/4 tons are also heavier.

For your targeted weight, either should be fine. Since you are not using a WDH, you may want to budget some some for of rear suspension aid such as Timbrens or Air Bags.

[BenK]

Haven't checked in a few years, but the AWD system has a viscus 3rd member (3rd differential inside the transfer case and uses a fluid to couple and provide the slippage needed for AWD).

That viscous 3rd member used to be a weak point when towing heavy and serious off-roading.

So, it will depend on how big your trailer is and if any serious off-roading is your plans. There is nothing 'wrong' with this, just know that it has limits

[Seon]

Gold wrote:
Thank you all for your reply’s. I have heard that gearing would help. What gearing did you have on your ‘07 Yukon?

Also, what negatives have you heard about the Escalade? Should I assume that whatever is negative on the Escalade also applies to the Denali as they are largely the same vehicle?

Yukon had 3.73

The Denali is a GMC Yukon with added Bling Blings.

Do a search 'Escalade towing pros and cons' and decide if that's the vehicle you want.

Here's three youtube on Escalades that may interest you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7_XgpFecPQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50OJguHtpm0 mark 2.06 min

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTXuzeu6PTc

Best of luck.

[Grit_dog]

Pretty sure all the Denali’s and Escalades are 3.42 gears.
400+ Hp and the 6 speed will blow the doors off of a 4 speed 5.3.

[Gold]

I am guessing at the weight of the trailer. It’s an 18ft v toy hauler with dual 10k lb axles. It has a 2375 lb car inside, and I’ve estimated under 500 lb of misc. gear.

[Gold]

I do have the tow haul turned on always when towing. The difference that is clearly felt with tow/haul on is firmer shifts at a later rpm. The downshifting issue from 4th to 3rd at highway speeds is with tow/haul turned on. Cruise control is basically not useable as any slight acceleration cruise needs to maintain speed will cause a downshift. I can go faster (barely the speed limit) if I don’t use cruise and try to hold a steady foot at the Max power I can hold in 4th gear right before it would downshift to third. My other trick is to put the computer on “instant mpg”. 4th gear at 9MPG is the magic number to maintain. The slight acceleration that would drop instant mpg to 8mpg will result in a downshift to third even with tow/haul on.

[Gold]

Thank you all for your reply’s. I have heard that gearing would help. What gearing did you have on your ‘07 Yukon?

Also, what negatives have you heard about the Escalade? Should I assume that whatever is negative on the Escalade also applies to the Denali as they are largely the same vehicle?

[BenK]

Agree, weigh your setup, axle by axle to know where you are

Also, with a guesstimated trailer weight of 6,000...you are most likely over the dead weight rating of your reciever.

Most Suburban OEM receivers dead weight rating is 500 lbs

To check what diff ratio, either check the RPO codes as others have recommended.

If bought used...previous owner(s) may have changed the diff ratio

Consider tieing a length of string to the driveshaft.

Then roll the vehicle one tire rev. Use a valve stem as a datum.

Then count the number of string turns. That will be the diff ratios whole number

Fractions if a turn left will be the diff ratios fractional number.

3 whole turns is a 3.xx

3/4 of a turn is x.73

Remove the string...

Edit...assume you are NOT towing in OD if no tow/hail function on your dash

[Seon]

Hey OP, I just re-read your post and nothing mentioned that you have the "Tow" feature on. If the transmission is constantly downshifting on level ground then that to me is an indicator that you're still driving in "overdrive" and not in the tow mode.

[Sjm9911]

What exactly are you towing? Guessing its 6000 lbs may be a mistake. You shoyld be able to tow that , maybe not accelerate as fast, but you should get to speed. Im thinking it may be heavier then you think.