How to check electricity at a campground

[GizmosMom]

I just read a campground review where the RV-ers checked the electricity at 3-4 sites before they found one that was good.

We have been RV-ing for many years. We don't check but I think it is about time for us to do so. I did a search here on the forum but I could not find any posts relating to checking the electricity. I am not using the correct terminology, I am sure.

Is this a special meter or something else? I would like your recommendations for one, if possible.

Thanks!

[ol_Bombero-JC]

Sam Spade wrote:
Do a Google search for "electrical tester".
This is one of the things that came up for me:
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/test-measurement/Metrs-HVAC-R/gardner-bender-gfci-outlet-tester-120-vac?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=CjwKCAjwk4vMBRAgEiwA4ftLs6XaP9vf4CEG5S0ZJcFPIg4nyPMhResJOH6A-tW2s06tYAslpV-IIxoC0bkQAvD_BwE

It is a simple quick test for "major" faults only and you would need an adapter to test 30 amp outlets. It will NOT completely test a 50 amp outlet.

More complete tests are included with a medium to high end "surge protector", often prices around $100 or more.

It depends on what your budget is and how thorough you wish to be.

......."and how thorough you wish to be"

"Thorough": Would begin with a *link* to the url you posted.
Not too difficult..:R

"wa8yxm" - good info, but (IMO) an "overload" for the OPs question.

OP - "GismosMom" - in reply to your question - the simple testers will get the job done! Add a "Kil-A-Watt" (about $20) to those inexpensive items to continually monitor power. Avail at HD, Amazon, etc.

Yes, There are better (more expensive) alternatives.
Why would you want one of those? - Here's the easy answer...

Thread: The Electrician Said "Oops"

On edit - be sure to see the '2nd installment' - 2nd post, still 1st page of the "Oops" thread - - by "Bill Socal"..:W


~

[Gjac]

myredracer wrote:

Gjac wrote:
If voltage is less than 107 v I would look for another site if you want to run AC.

The problem with that is you are measuring open circuit (no load) voltage and it can plummet out of sight once you plug in and start turning loads on. Doesn't have to be anywhere near 107 to do that either. In some cases, just the charging current from a converter can cause an EMS to cut your power off due to low volts. You *could* spend lots of time squeezing your RV into a really tight/small site only to find the voltage is cr*p after all that effort...

If a pedestal looks suspect and/or the CG is old, you could take a coffee maker or electric heater and plug into the pedestal and see what the voltage does.

Older campgrounds are usually the ones with low voltage problems because they can have long individual 30 amp (and 50 amps if they have many or even any) runs to pedestals and the wiring wasn't required to be sized for the high demand from RVs that exists nowadays with so many AC units and other high demand appliances. Newer CGs/RV parks with their loop-fed pedestals are much less likely to have voltage issues. If you are at a pedestal with 30 and 50 amps you are even less likely to have low voltage.

In the face of adversity due to low voltage, there's always the Hughes autoformer... 🙂

My point is if you check it and it reads 107v or less at no load I would not plug in because it may get less once you hook up. I would rather plug into a receptacle that reads 120v to start with.

[myredracer]

Gjac wrote:
If voltage is less than 107 v I would look for another site if you want to run AC.

The problem with that is you are measuring open circuit (no load) voltage and it can plummet out of sight once you plug in and start turning loads on. Doesn't have to be anywhere near 107 to do that either. In some cases, just the charging current from a converter can cause an EMS to cut your power off due to low volts. You *could* spend lots of time squeezing your RV into a really tight/small site only to find the voltage is cr*p after all that effort...

If a pedestal looks suspect and/or the CG is old, you could take a coffee maker or electric heater and plug into the pedestal and see what the voltage does.

Older campgrounds are usually the ones with low voltage problems because they can have long individual 30 amp (and 50 amps if they have many or even any) runs to pedestals and the wiring wasn't required to be sized for the high demand from RVs that exists nowadays with so many AC units and other high demand appliances. Newer CGs/RV parks with their loop-fed pedestals are much less likely to have voltage issues. If you are at a pedestal with 30 and 50 amps you are even less likely to have low voltage.

In the face of adversity due to low voltage, there's always the Hughes autoformer... 🙂

[Gjac]

GizmosMom wrote:
I just read a campground review where the RV-ers checked the electricity at 3-4 sites before they found one that was good.

We have been RV-ing for many years. We don't check but I think it is about time for us to do so. I did a search here on the forum but I could not find any posts relating to checking the electricity. I am not using the correct terminology, I am sure.

Is this a special meter or something else? I would like your recommendations for one, if possible.

Thanks!

. To answer your question directly all you need to check the post at your campsite is a multimeter. If it is a 50 amp plug set the meter to 200 v and check from ground (round hole at top) to vertical slots left and right it should read 120 volts check other vertical leg should be the same. Check top ground ( round hole ) to vertical ground directly under top round and that should be zero volts. Set meter to 700 v scale and read voltage across the two vertical legs should read 240 volts. Do you have a muti meter? If not you can get one at Harbor Freight for free with any purchase. If voltage is less than 107 v I would look for another site if you want to run AC.

[nineoaks2004]

I use the 30A portable one for our small TT , it is better to be safe than sorry.

[ncrowley]

Get a Progressive Industries or Surge Guard power protection - not just a surge guard. I have the external one from Surge Guard and it works well and has protected us from potential disaster a couple of times. You just plug them into the power plug and wait to see if all is well. I would never plug in without using one. Even if you check the plug when you get there, something could happen while you are plugged in.

[SidecarFlip]

Damp ground, bare feet and a small flat blade screwdriver will 'test the outlet real well......:E:E

[Atlee]

I would suggest you get a Progressive Industries EMT. I've had one for years now. Always plug it into the pedestal first to make sure every thing is right about the electricity, and keep it plugged in in case of either a brownout or surge.

GizmosMom wrote:
I just read a campground review where the RV-ers checked the electricity at 3-4 sites before they found one that was good.

We have been RV-ing for many years. We don't check but I think it is about time for us to do so. I did a search here on the forum but I could not find any posts relating to checking the electricity. I am not using the correct terminology, I am sure.

Is this a special meter or something else? I would like your recommendations for one, if possible.

Thanks!

[Campinghoss]

We have the progressive industries hard wired with remote in our coach. I have it set for about two minutes delay. Once I plug in to the cg power it analyzes all the info you need to be safe. Once it is satisfied and the two mins have passed it allows current into the coach. They also have portable units.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

🙂 Hi, I have a Polarity Tester in the kitchen in my trailer. I made a set-up with a polarity tester and 30 amp plug so I can test it at the power pole. I also have a Kill-A-Watt in my trailer's kitchen to check mostly for voltage.

[Bobbo]

[wa8yxm]

There are several ways depending on 30 or 50 amp. IN BOTH CASES there is one very easy way.

Install a Progressive Industries HW-XXc (Where XX is 30 for 30 amp RV's and 50 for 50 amp RVs) when you plug in it will do a diagnostic and if something is screwy (IE: Open neutral (50 amp) 240 volts (30 amp) open ground (Either) High/low voltage or frequency.... It will tell you and

You can also get a portable one but I like the Hard Wired better. AND Get the ones with the LCD display or remote with LCD display

TRC (Technical Research Corp) Makes the SURGE GUARD brand. Again both portable or hard wired, and make sure you have an LCD display that shows voltage current or issue,

My portable (Surge Guard) also counts down 17something seconds before connecting This can be a plus on some occasion.


THe next method.. 30 amnp

YOu get a 15-30 adapter (30 amp plug with 15 amp outlet) and a 3 Light Outlet tester... That is test one.. A plug in volt meter is test two

Test one make sure only the green lights light, and both of them, RED is bad (Assumes 2 green one red) IF other color scheme use diagram on device,

Voltmeter 120 is ideal 115 ok 110 is CAUTION

Plug the volt meter in INSIDE the rv if it tests good and monitor


The final way.> Go to NO SHOCK ZONE (Google it) and use a voltmeter. YOU may have to modify it to reach far enough into the socket.


One person makes a quad 15 amp to 50 amp adapter with indicator light

One The device is wired as follows

One leg (Black or red wire) goes to one duplex (HOT side) the other leg (Also black or red) to the other Duplex outlet hot side (This i9s the side with teh coppper screw) White wire goes to the NEUTRAL side (Silvery screw) on both and Green to both greens.

An indicator is wired across the two hot leads. A neon indsiator with added resistance works well I can not tell you the amount of resistance however without knowing what NE-lamp you buy.

Plug in, LIght on -= proper 240 across the legs (no light they park cheated)

Plug a volt meter into each side. Good reading, Do it again this timne with a 1500 Watt space heater in the other half of the duplex Still good you are likely good

rv101byfred (dot com I think can point you to that adapter or you can home brew

I use the Surge Guard myself

[JMichael]

I use the 50 amp hard wired version of this unit.

Progressive Industries EMS-PT30C Portable EMS RV Surge Protector - 30 Amp

JMichael
2001 Newmar KADP

[ependydad]

Same as above- a Progressive Industries EMS is best. Here is a link that describes the options when buying one:

http://learntorv.com/what-surge-protector-is-best-for-my-rv/