Mountain RVing advice.

[Trails_And_Tail]

We're planning an extended RV trip for next spring that will put us in the mountains for part of it. Our Class C is a 1991 with a Ford 460 engine and automatic 3 speed (plus manual OD) transmission. The best specs I can find for this combination is 245 hp @ 2200 rpm and 400 lbs torque @ 4000 rpm. Which of these specs should I pay attention to? I'm looking for the optimum pull for the uphills and I'm not sure what would be a good starting place (rpm) to start looking for the "sweet spot". Any advice about this or anything else related to mountain travel would be greatly appreciated. BTW: I'm a bit of a sissy so I'll be planning to stay on Interstates as much as possible.

[coolbreeze01]

Good job navegator. Saved me some typing 😉

[navegator]

When going up hill as soon as the gradient starts turn the overdrive off and go in third, if the hill gets steeper drop gown to second, what you do not want to do is have the transmission switching from OD to third then to second on continuously, that will only over heat the transmission, you want a steady engine rpm also do not try to go as fast as you can, some hills you might be doing 50 mph or even drop down to 45 mph if you go down to 40 mph or less, turn your blinkers on to let those following know that you are going slow.

When you reach the crest and you start the downhill, place the transmission in 3rd and use the engine to slow you down, you might even have to use 2nd, use the brake as little as possible, an over heated brake system is useless in an emergency, also keep your down hill speed where you are comfortable, RV'S tend to be top heavy and some of the curves on mountain roads are sharp.

Just remember that speed kills and it also needs a lot of energy to move a big box that is not wind tunnel tested.

Be safe and enjoy the scenery, drive at a speed that is comfortable for you and your family and please do not acquire a severe disease, we call it "get-there-itis", if you do not have time to see or do everything on this trip, then go home, you will live to travel again.

navegator

[Chris_Bryant]

I had a similar drive train, but more weight (a high cube van full of lighting equipment pulling a 32' trailer)- first rule of mountain driving. Never go down a hill faster than you went up.
Most hills we could make in 2nd at 45 mph- anything less than a 7% grade and we could usually hold at 55 in high gear- if it wanted to hunt between 2nd and high, I would just shift to second and hold the speed at 45.

[More_To_See]

On a gasser you'd want to keep your RPM at peak torque. You'll need to find the HP/Torque curves for your engine. And you'll need a tach of course.

On a long climb it's best to occasionally back off the throttle occasionally for a moment. That's supposed to help keep the manifolds from turning cherry red and also allows the computer to adjust itself. You try not to climb all the way to the top with it floored. And if there is a pull over at the top perhaps at a view point don't shut down a hot engine without letting it cool off for a few minutes.

There's an art to mountain driving. Lots of info available here on the forum. Do some searches.

[csamayfield55x]

3845 RPM's. that is the perfect spot! JK!

Honestly, you have to listen to YOUR motor, watch water temps and feel what it is doing with the seat of your pants. No one here knows your rig like you do so if YOU feel it needs more skinny pedal give it to her. If you need to back her down, do it.

With my gas engines I tried to keep them around 3K. Hard to do in the mountains

Chris

[Trails_And_Tail]

All good stuff so far, but I'm really curious about finding the best rpm for maximum pulling power with my rig. She's a bit elderly and I don't want to over-rev or lug the old gal.

[tjfogelberg]

Check out mountaindirectory.com It is a site (and book) that can help prepare you for mountain climbing. (I bought both books). Todd
(Heading out to Yellowstone today!)

[Trackrig]

I'd worry more about coming down the hills rather than going up. Have the brakes checked and the brake fluid changed. If the brake fluid hasn't been changed in a long time, it absorbs moisture keeping the brakes from performing their best.

Bill

[Raften]

Not sure what you mean about your transmission, a stick shift? If you are staying on interstates you should be fine. I had Ford vans up to a '85 before I switched to diesel trucks and cap overs. Every Ford I ever had back to the mid engine type had nasty weak brakes that over heated to the point of failure on long steep grades. Not fun. You should be ok in Interstates.