New Truck = Bigger Receiver = Unexpected Problem

[rctoyguy]

this past weekend I traded my '15 Ram 1500 for a '13 Ram 2500. I have now discovered that this 2500 has a much larger receiver than my 1500 did. (it's also larger than my brother's '12 Ram 2500) - I think I have found that this truck's hitch is a Class V... All great,

EXCEPT...

My WDH for my travel trailer is now too small for my truck:


I know that I can get an "adapter" that is basically a square tube that fits over the hitch and into the receiver to make up the difference.
Is this a safe way to go, or do I need to replace my WDH?

If it really is worth the money difference (to replace WDH ~$?? instead of using the adapter ~$30) - can't I just replace the part of the WDH that goes into the receiver and not have to replace the entire thing? It's going to have to be reconfigured/adjusted/setup anyway for the new truck anyway.

Moderator edit to re-size pictures to forum recommended limit of 640px maximum width.

[rctoyguy]

Getting the adapter was no issue - I just wondered about using the adapter. I have. Ow pulled about 400 miles with the adapter and have had no problems.

[trail-explorer]

Rainier wrote:
My Chev truck is the same. It came with a sleeve or adapter that fits the receiver perfectly.

x2

CHeck out Amazon, Etrailer.com or your local RAM dealer.

[allen8106]

270wsmhunter wrote:
Get an adapter. I use one on my truck and have no issues.

Same here.

[mkirsch]

There's a major difference between hauling a backhoe across town at 30MPH and hauling a travel trailer across the state at 65MPH, but trying to explain it here is a colossal waste of time.

[SoCalDesertRid1]

Highway 4x4 wrote:
Just because the rear springs can take the weight and there is no rear sag it does not mean that the front is not getting lighter. It might not be enough to matter but it is happening.

Of course it's getting lighter. Any time weight is loaded behind the rear axle, the front axle will lose weight. Same with weight loaded in front of the front axle, the rear will lose weight. It's physics: principle of the lever and fulcrum.

[Highway_4x4]

Just because the rear springs can take the weight and there is no rear sag it does not mean that the front is not getting lighter. It might not be enough to matter but it is happening.

[SoCalDesertRid1]

rctoyguy wrote:
Maybe I'm wording some stuff wrong. The hitch attached to the truck is rated for something insane - 1800 tongue, 18000 trailer. The WD hitch I have is what says 500 without bars.

With the camper attached, I had 1/4" rise in the front of the truck (with no bars attached.)

I hooked up the bars on a light setting (3rd link) - that brought the front of the truck back to original height.

Make sure all parts of your hitch are rated for the load.

By your description, your truck does not need a weight distributing hitch to tow that trailer. I would run it without the bars.

A weight distributing hitch is a helper/aid for vehicles with insufficient rear suspension to carry a heavy hitch weight. Bigger trucks with heavier rear suspension don't need a weight distributing hitch to pull trailers that are within their rear suspensions weight carrying ability.

Weight distributing hitches are used almost exclusively by the RV towing community and are very rarely, if ever, seen in use in commercial business trades, such as construction, heavy equipment, and trucking.

A medium size travel trailer may require a massive amount of weight distribution to be towed by a station wagon, mini van, small suv, etc. Hook that same trailer up to a much bigger truck, say an F550, and the truck doesn't even know it has any weight on it's hitch. Put it on the ball and go.

[Highway_4x4]

Use a good WD hitch with the bars adjusted correctly. With no bars when you hit a good dip in the road you will not like the ride. If you get a 2 1/2 inch shank and someone else without a 2 1/2 inch hitch has to move your TT you are done. Keep your shank and get a sleeve.

[rctoyguy]

Maybe I'm wording some stuff wrong. The hitch attached to the truck is rated for something insane - 1800 tongue, 18000 trailer. The WD hitch I have is what says 500 without bars.

With the camper attached, I had 1/4" rise in the front of the truck (with no bars attached.)

I hooked up the bars on a light setting (3rd link) - that brought the front of the truck back to original height.

[SoCalDesertRid1]

rctoyguy wrote:
Now I'm wondering if I need to hook up the bars anyway, with very little tension. I looked over the install instructions for this hitch again, and it says:
Rating when used as a weight distributing hitch with spring bars:
tongue weight 1000
max gross trailer weight 10,000

Rating when used as a weight carrying hitch without spring bars:
tongue weight 500 (I'm over that)
max gross trailer weight 5,000 (I'm over that too)

Hoped I could get away without hooking up the bars, but maybe I can't.

If your trailer's tongue weight is overloading your truck's receiver hitch when not using the weight distributing hitch, then you need to do one of 2 things.

Either use the weight distributing hitch, or upgrade the truck's receiver hitch with a stronger aftermarket one with enough weight carrying tongue weight rating to carry the trailer's hitch weight, without using weight distribution.

[BarneyS]

Grit dog wrote:

rctoyguy wrote:
Now I'm wondering if I need to hook up the bars anyway, with very little tension. I looked over the install instructions for this hitch again, and it says:
Rating when used as a weight distributing hitch with spring bars:
tongue weight 1000
max gross trailer weight 10,000

Rating when used as a weight carrying hitch without spring bars:
tongue weight 500 (I'm over that)
max gross trailer weight 5,000 (I'm over that too)

Hoped I could get away without hooking up the bars, but maybe I can't.

Fwiw you could drop a 1000lb tongue weight on the bare hitch, no wd, and not take it off for the next 100000 mi without issue.
Snip...

Bad advice! His hitch is only rated for 500lbs in weight carrying mode not to mention the weight lost off of the front axle of his truck.
Very ill advised statement in my opinion!
Barney

[Grit_dog]

rctoyguy wrote:
Now I'm wondering if I need to hook up the bars anyway, with very little tension. I looked over the install instructions for this hitch again, and it says:
Rating when used as a weight distributing hitch with spring bars:
tongue weight 1000
max gross trailer weight 10,000

Rating when used as a weight carrying hitch without spring bars:
tongue weight 500 (I'm over that)
max gross trailer weight 5,000 (I'm over that too)

Hoped I could get away without hooking up the bars, but maybe I can't.

Fwiw you could drop a 1000lb tongue weight on the bare hitch, no wd, and not take it off for the next 100000 mi without issue.
If your TT has torsion spring axles you want to get it as close to level as possible because that suspension doesn't modulate between the axels like tandem leafs so whichever axle is on the low side is seeing more load. Otherwise little nose up or down is of little consequence.

[mkirsch]

rctoyguy wrote:
Now I'm wondering if I need to hook up the bars anyway, with very little tension. I looked over the install instructions for this hitch again, and it says:
Rating when used as a weight distributing hitch with spring bars:
tongue weight 1000
max gross trailer weight 10,000

Rating when used as a weight carrying hitch without spring bars:
tongue weight 500 (I'm over that)
max gross trailer weight 5,000 (I'm over that too)

Hoped I could get away without hooking up the bars, but maybe I can't.

Yes, you need to hook up the bars, and adjust them properly.

[dogwood36322]

Bought my adapter 2½ to 2 from u-haul for $14.