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New Wiring Harness - need help!

Mickeyfan0805
Explorer
Explorer
My wife backed into an especially hard snow bank over the winter and the result is that the 7-pin wiring harness needs to be replaced. But, I am having problems.

I'm having a number of issues, but the first and foremost is that I can't seem to get the circuit tester to work properly. I have an automotive circuit tester. I am connecting the alligator clip to various points (the hitch, the frame under the truck, etc...) in order to ground it, and then using the tester on the leads of the harness - I get no signal on any of them. When connected to the trailer the lights are working properly, so I know there is power and function, but I am doing something wrong with the tester.

I want to make sure this circuit tester is working properly before I cut the wires and start marking functionality in order to wire the new harness. If anyone has any sense of what I am doing wrong, I would greatly appreciate the insight.

Thanks!
5 REPLIES 5

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
AH so I misread... sorry bout that chief...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

Mickeyfan0805
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks RoyB - but I am replacing the harness on the truck. The plug for the trailer is in great shape.

I've been thinking it was likely the ground. I've sanded it down pretty well, but maybe I need to go further. I'll give it a shot.

is_it_friday_ye
Explorer
Explorer
I believe he's talking about the truck end? Are you using a multi-meter to test your wires? Change the battery on the meter and try it on something like a battery in your truck or just a AA battery or something similar. Then you will know if your meter is working.
2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins SRW, Airlift airbags, Bilstein shocks, Smarty Jr., stainless turbo back exhaust, B&W Patriot 18K

2015 Grand Design Momentum 328M, disc brakes, Progressive Industries 50 amp EMS

YC_1
Nomad
Nomad
Go to your battery and use the post to test the tester. If it functions ok you need to find a better ground at the hitch. Grind some place shiny clean and connect to that. I actually screwed a crimp connector for a wire on a place made shiny and clean. I can alligator clip to it with confidence. If you have a piece of wire long enough just run it to the negative battery post.
H/R Endeavor 2008
Ford F150 toad >Full Timers
Certified Senior Electronic Technician, Telecommunications Engineer, Telecommunications repair Service Center Owner, Original owner HR 2008

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
If no has done the cut and paste before your 7-way cable should be a breeze... Most of them terminate into a weather tight electrical junction box just inside your trailer frame... If all is normal all you do is replace color for color. Some are tied together with large yellow twist connectors... Other have lugs and are connected to a terminal strip... Unless someone has made changes already it is as simple of remove a BLUE WIRE for instannce and repacing with the new Blue wire etx...

ETRAILER.com has a nice video showing their 7-way cable being hooked up...

I would replace the whole cable and not cut into it and add a length...


ETRAILER has your exact 7-way cable with molded connector and it used to come in two lengths. Long and bit less than long haha...

Check them out before you decide what to do...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS