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Prodigy P2 Break Control

SUKISHORT
Explorer
Explorer
I am looking to replace my very old break controller. I have heard good things about the Prodigy P2. Anyone have anything to say, Pro or Con about it? Thank you all in advance.
31 REPLIES 31

oughtsix
Explorer
Explorer
On Amazon -
P2 - $124.95
P3 - $135.95

Why would you get a P2 instead of a P3?

I adjusted my P3 once and have not had to make any changes since.
2006 Duramax Crew Cab Long Bed pickup.
2007 Coachman Captiva 265EX trailer.

Bigbird65
Explorer
Explorer
The only brake controller that I've have had is the Tekonsha P3. I'm relative new to trailering and have only pulled our trailer about 3300 miles. I am extremely satisfied with the P3. It was very easy to adjust. After the first 900 miles I adjusted the brakes on all 4 wheels. Pretty easy job.
2017 RAM 1500 Quad Cab 5.7L Hemi, 8 speed 3.21
2018 Winnebago Minnie 2250DS

ol_Bombero-JC
Explorer
Explorer
Old-Biscuit wrote:


YES.........the P2 is one of the best BRAKE controllers available



Ahhhhh....c'mon - give him a break...;)

~

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Shoes, spare spring set, magnet and misc...depends on which trailer I'm borrowing...

I don't own a trailer anymore and borrow...but first time make a deal for them
to allow me to check it out and repair/adjust/etc

Whenever it needs trailer shoes, I buy two sets and then setup their 'kit'

Use 5 gallon plastic paint buckets for lots of these kinds of things

From snow chains, to trailer brake kit, etc

Plastic lid that serves as a seat/stool. Canvas pouch that fits over the bucket
lip and has pockets on the inside portion and outside portion

Plastic bags holes the box with shoes. Ditto plastic for the spring kit. Magnets.
Zip ties. Gloves. High temp lube. Brake shoe tool. Bungee Cords. ETC

Started when I was a partner in a +8K lb boat. Used to leave it with the trailer
but the partners never replaced anything...nor told me they used the parts. Some
times on their other trailers

It is water tight. Keeps everything in one place...even after moving it around
several times during a trip.

One of the first things I check for when borrowing...some times find that they
used the parts and/or 'loaned' parts to others during their trip. Then check the
other stuff am anal about
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
BenK wrote:
Know I'm anal on this type of safety thing...

I always:
  • Manually check & adjust the TV and Trailer brakes
  • Test the manual lever/button when leaving initially and after each stop
  • Manually test the trailer brakes along the ride
  • Carry a rebuild kit for the trailer, as all this testing wears them out quickly



That's a great idea on carrying a rebuild kit, especially if doing long trips. Just what do you carry along?

My general to-do list also includes checking the wiring connections and anything else that could use attention or improvement with the brake wiring in the TT.

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Know I'm anal on this type of safety thing...

I always:
  • Manually check & adjust the TV and Trailer brakes
  • Test the manual lever/button when leaving initially and after each stop
  • Manually test the trailer brakes along the ride
  • Carry a rebuild kit for the trailer, as all this testing wears them out quickly



Before the Sub and the previous brake pedals had plunger (door bell like)
brake switches...practiced using the lever/button to manually set the
trailer brakes

Became a habit to do that any time the trailer wiggled...

Now with the GM brake pedal switch...just touch the pedal and the
brake controller will set the trailer brakes...while the TV's brakes
do NOT ever see any MC PSI
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
jerem0621 wrote:

Yes I know you can grab the over-ride lever on any brake controller...however the human being has a tendency to react via muscle memory (training) in an emergency.

How many users of electronic brake controllers practice stopping their rig by the electronic brake controller over-ride lever? Or how about just practicing the movements to reach their over ride lever? Probably not many.
Jeremiah


Good point! I've read a few adamantly insist that if they ever get into a serious sway/braking situation, ALL they need to do is reach down and hit the override button/lever. Not sure how anyone could actually do that when you can be out of control in the blink of an eye. It would probably take me several seconds at least to think about hitting the lever and then to reach down to find it and by then I'd probably be in a ditch, or worse. I'd rather rely on good BC and brakes.

Love our P3 but it's only going to help in a "situation" if your TT brakes are working properly. Seems to me not everyone checks their brakes routinely and gets them serviced like they should. We plan on getting ours checked annually (along with the bearings).

Our 1st TT (now on 3rd) had faulty brakes from the day we bought it new. Took just over a year for the dealer to agree to take the brakes apart. The factory had screwed up as they found cosmoline on all the internal parts which also got onto the shoes, a broken spring and 4 warped rotors. Before the brakes got fixed, we were told we just needed a better BC so we upgraded to the P3. Didn't help whatsoever and it was then that we realized it had to be the brakes.

jerem0621
Explorer II
Explorer II
mileshuff wrote:
Seems $144 is the going rate for a P3. Anyone find it lower?


amazon

ebay

Thanks!

Jeremiah
TV-2022 Silverado 2WD
TT - Zinger 270BH
WD Hitch- HaulMaster 1,000 lb Round Bar
Dual Friction bar sway control

Itโ€™s Kind of Fun to do the Impossible
~Walt Disney~

mileshuff
Explorer
Explorer
Seems $144 is the going rate for a P3. Anyone find it lower?
2014 Winnebago 26FWRKS 5th Wheel
2007.5 Dodge 2500 6.7L Diesel
2004 Dodge Durango Hemi 3.55 (Used to tow TT)

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
P3 and P2 are functionally the same. The P3 has more bells and whistles.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

jerem0621
Explorer II
Explorer II
They both have warnings. If the P2 detects a loss of connection it will display a clear

"n.c."

Will display indicating that the trailer is "not connected"

There is a plethora of other diagnostic codes that the P2 will display.

Thanks!

Jeremiah
TV-2022 Silverado 2WD
TT - Zinger 270BH
WD Hitch- HaulMaster 1,000 lb Round Bar
Dual Friction bar sway control

Itโ€™s Kind of Fun to do the Impossible
~Walt Disney~

liketoride2
Explorer
Explorer
For the post immediately above I copied and pasted two sentences from Tekonsha's website regarding the P2 and P3. These showed in the post before it was submitted but were not present in the post. When I edited and resubmitted it still wasn't there.

What I tried to say was that the P2 is described as having" Continual diagnostics check for proper connections, shorted magnetic conditions, and much more."

The details of the P3 say basically the same thing, but in addition "A flashing red warning system alerts users to No Trailer Brake situations."

So is the situation that the P2 only monitors but does not warn, whereas the P3 both monitors and warns, or do they both have warnings, just in different ways.

I hope all the wording transmits this time - I'm a lousy typist and it's agony to have to type out everything! ;o)

Thanks once more.

Mike

liketoride2
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks to both of you for the information. Regarding the current read out, the details of the P2 on Tekonsha's website state:

<>

and for the P3:

<< A flashing red warning system alerts of a No Trailer Brake situation>>

In terms of function is one significantly better regarding warnings or do they both warn of a problem but in a different way?

Thanks again.

Mike

RCMAN46
Explorer
Explorer
liketoride2 wrote:
I've just purchased a Prodigy P2 (returnable)for my new TT. After reading the posts above I'm wondering if I should have purchased the P3. The price is only about $20 different.

Could anyone summarize the differences between the P2 and P3? Tekonsha's website does not have a direct comparison and the advantages of the P3 aren't very clear. It's obvious that the P3 has a larger display but would it provide better braking than the P2 or are the differences just "bells and whistles"? Thanks.

Mike


The P3 has a current read out.

Very useful feature to detect a broken wire in a brake magnet.