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Quiet heater that doesn’t drain batteries ?

Jwpup
Explorer
Explorer
Hi,

I’m new to the RV world, just started making family trips in a new travel trailer (forest river wolf pup). But temperatures are dropping and the heater that came with the camper is horrendously loud. It wakes us up every time it kicks on at night.

All of our camping is without hookups and we are trying to find out if there’s a better alternative for heating the unit at night, without a noisy fan, and without draining the batteries. Any ideas?

Thanks,

John
56 REPLIES 56

KLYoung
Explorer
Explorer
Don't forget that you might need to run your furnace to keeps your tanks under the trailer from freezing.




(EDIT: I think you mean "don't" instead of "do forget".

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
There are many vented heaters that use no power. They cost more. Your money, or your life?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

StirCrazy
Moderator
Moderator
free radical wrote:

Look up Espar diesel heater or its Chinese knock off copy which cost much less.
Espar is pricey but well worth the money.
Search YT on how to instal,


I have been watching a series on yuo tube about them. the chinese knock offs of the other design are pretty much the same thing as the real one. are you running one? I am wondering about replacing my furnace with one.

Steve
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100

Sjm9911
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Sjm9911,

Many of us will not use unvented combustion heaters. My daughter is a CO survivor. Can you guess what I recommend?


A co detecter , as i previously said? If you go back and re read the thread, i belive i stated not to use a portable heater without a co detecter and make up air. Multiple times. I also said some use a diesel heater ( there vented). People ise them all the time, and it can be done safely with the checks in place.

Side note , im sorry about your daughter. Its atually one of the reasons , i posted so much about make up air and a co detecter.
2012 kz spree 220 ks
2020 Silverado 2500
Equalizer ( because i have it)
Formerly a pup owner.

Jwpup
Explorer
Explorer
Hey everyone - thanks so much for all of the tips and guidance!! Looks like I have some homework and some shopping to do 🙂

The thought of CO poisoning does terrify me, but maybe for redundancy I’ll install an extra couple of CO sensors to backup the sensor that came in the unit. I’m always amazed when critical safety sensor systems like that come with just a single device and no redundancy.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Sjm9911,

Many of us will not use unvented combustion heaters. My daughter is a CO survivor. Can you guess what I recommend?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Sjm9911
Explorer
Explorer
free radical wrote:
Sjm9911 wrote:
Just be sure that you leave room for make up air whatever you use. Don't confuse non vented to mean no openings. Everything that burns needs make up air. Some need more then others. Thats why its not safe to heat your home with an oven. Short term it its ok for the oven as its designed to just heat the small box. Anything designed to put out heat for a room, will eat up oxygen faster. This will lead to low oxygen and a larger co output from the unit as it will not burn as clean. The instrutions will say the same. This also goes for i door gas fireplaces. They need make up air.

Not all heaters need air,
Espar diesel takes intake air from OUTside and wents exhaust outside too.
Doesnt create any moisture inside either,its all dry heat.


Um, don't really know why i have to say this,
but taking air from outside is needing air. And we were talking portable non venting models. As I said, if it burns it needs make up air.
2012 kz spree 220 ks
2020 Silverado 2500
Equalizer ( because i have it)
Formerly a pup owner.

free_radical
Explorer
Explorer
Sjm9911 wrote:
Just be sure that you leave room for make up air whatever you use. Don't confuse non vented to mean no openings. Everything that burns needs make up air. Some need more then others. Thats why its not safe to heat your home with an oven. Short term it its ok for the oven as its designed to just heat the small box. Anything designed to put out heat for a room, will eat up oxygen faster. This will lead to low oxygen and a larger co output from the unit as it will not burn as clean. The instrutions will say the same. This also goes for i door gas fireplaces. They need make up air.

Not all heaters need air,
Espar diesel takes intake air from OUTside and wents exhaust outside too.
Doesnt create any moisture inside either,its all dry heat.

free_radical
Explorer
Explorer
Jwpup wrote:
Hi,

I’m new to the RV world, just started making family trips in a new travel trailer (forest river wolf pup). But temperatures are dropping and the heater that came with the camper is horrendously loud. It wakes us up every time it kicks on at night.

All of our camping is without hookups and we are trying to find out if there’s a better alternative for heating the unit at night, without a noisy fan, and without draining the batteries. Any ideas?

Thanks,

John

Look up Espar diesel heater or its Chinese knock off copy which cost much less.
Espar is pricey but well worth the money.
Search YT on how to instal,

FLY_4_FUN
Explorer
Explorer
Different take on things, Im a fan of 2x6v or 4x6v batts plus solar and genset. Yes the factory furnace is loud but after a few trips its just white noise. Dry camping has real challenges in cool weather. We run Honda before bed so batts are topped off as well as a 110v mattress heater. Once genset is off its warm blankets and furnace to a comfortable temp for us. In the morning honda goes on and solar assists getting batteries topped off. We try to conserve power or save big loads for when Honda is running.
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 crew SB 4x4 CTD 3.73
2015 Brookstone 315RL
2009 Colorado 29BHS (sold 2015)
05 Jayflight 29BHS (sold 2008)
99 Jayco Eagle 12SO (sold 2005)

rexlion
Explorer
Explorer
Propex furnaces are much quieter. Dickinson Newport heaters provide a nice 'fireplace look' through a glass window. Just a couple of ideas.
Mike G.
Liberty is meaningless where the right to utter one's thoughts and opinions has ceased to exist. That, of all rights, is the dread of tyrants. --Frederick Douglass
photo: Yosemite Valley view from Taft Point

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
midnightsadie wrote:
look at these and others like them ebay #124270266794 under $200. bucks can be mounted outside and warm air brought inside no fumes. ebay diesel portable heaters.


Can't find that.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
down home wrote:
Produce moisture? Look at your front window and others when it is 32 outside and raining and furnaces run all night.


Condensation on the windows just means the glass surface is cooler than the dew point of the air in the RV, which in turn generally means the humidity is at a reasonable indoor air level. The water vapor comes from people breathing and from cooking, not from the furnace, as the furnace is designed such that all the combustion gasses are vented outside (and all the combustion air comes from the outside), with a heat exchanger to transfer the heat to the air circulated around the inside of the RV.

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
look at these and others like them ebay #124270266794 under $200. bucks can be mounted outside and warm air brought inside no fumes. ebay diesel portable heaters.

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
gp to e bay type in portable furnace some handy little heaters .