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RV parked for a lengthy period

marpel
Explorer
Explorer
With winter here, in conjunction with the previous year of Covid, I suspect many have not used/are not using their RVs as much as in normal times.

I have a travel trailer that has remained dormant since the fall of 2019, in fact, it hasn't even been de-winterized for 2020. I ensure the tires are maintained/inflated and do routine checks of the components, but nothing else.

Is there some extraordinary care, especially I suppose for motorhomes and their engines, that is recommended for extremely lengthy dormant periods?

Marv
25 REPLIES 25

mudhound
Explorer
Explorer
one word MICE
:C

God Bless

Oldewing
Explorer
Explorer
Yep, what they said, check tire pressure and go.


I do my bearings ever other season. more than I should, but I get bored....

I do use a full cover for my TT for the winter nap. Saves my roof some...
2017 Forest River 241QBXL
2014 GMC YukonXL Denali

Some time I wrestle with my demons, other times we just hug....

jeromep
Explorer
Explorer
I've gotten a lot of free advice this year from mechanics, both vehicle and generator, and this is what I came away with; at least for my climate, which is always cold in late fall and winter, but unseasonably cold right now.

So, the house portion of a motorhome is pretty static in storage. Get it properly winterized, maybe plug up some holes with steel wool which vermin can't stand, and if you are really concerned try the Irish Spring trick in cabinets and spaces to keep them away.

On the mechanical side I was advised by my local generator service shop to run the generator for at least a contiguous hour under load once a month. Not 15 minutes here and there, but a full hour all at once with a load running, they suggested a space heater. What they want is for the generator to get fully warmed up, get the oil hot and all the components under the shroud all up to temperature. With monthly exercising, they did not recommend any fuel treatments. Running the generator was more beneficial than fuel treatments.

For the chassis, that mechanic said something similar. Get the RV out on the road for at least 20 minutes, but preferably longer. Cycle through all the chassis systems you can, so run all modes of the climate control, especially the A/C, which most climate control systems will do in full defrost. Check your lights. Maybe even run your jacks. Getting the rig on the road was essential to getting the engine up to temperature and getting the transmission up to temp, which is something that a lot of people kind of ignore.

I realize this isn't practical for many folks, but it is for me, and makes a lot of sense.

dedmiston
Moderator
Moderator
valhalla360 wrote:
Even this is not really an issue with modern tires.


I clicked the link in CapriRacer's sig and decided that I will never ever ever argue about tires with him.

2014 RAM 3500 Diesel 4x4 Dually long bed. B&W RVK3600 hitch • 2015 Crossroads Elevation Homestead Toy Hauler ("The Taj Mahauler") • <\br >Toys:

  • 18 Can Am Maverick x3
  • 05 Yamaha WR450
  • 07 Honda CRF250X
  • 05 Honda CRF230
  • 06 Honda CRF230

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
valhalla360 wrote:


Even this is not really an issue with modern tires.


I agree, have not seen this to be enough of an issue to even notice.

Glad someone else is questioning some of these tire posts!

Maybe tire opinions should not be allowed, same as politics, and religion.

Jerry

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
CapriRacer wrote:
The real problem here with tires is not the concrete. It's with the sitting.

Tires can flatspot. The more load (less inflation), and the longer it sits, the worse the flatspotting. I've heard of tires flatspotting in 3 months.
But the vehicle has sat for a year, so it undoubtedly has flatspots.

What to do?

First, move the vehicle forward or backward a half a tire revolution (4 feet?). That would put another flatspot 180° out of phase, which is better because the suspension reacts to a single flatspot worse than 2 flatspots.

Or jack it put and rotate the tires 1/2 turn.

Another would be to overinflate the tires - say 20 psi. No!!, the tire will not explode (unless it is damaged, but then it was going to explode sometime later anyway!)


Even this is not really an issue with modern tires.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

CapriRacer
Explorer II
Explorer II
The real problem here with tires is not the concrete. It's with the sitting.

Tires can flatspot. The more load (less inflation), and the longer it sits, the worse the flatspotting. I've heard of tires flatspotting in 3 months.
But the vehicle has sat for a year, so it undoubtedly has flatspots.

What to do?

First, move the vehicle forward or backward a half a tire revolution (4 feet?). That would put another flatspot 180° out of phase, which is better because the suspension reacts to a single flatspot worse than 2 flatspots.

Or jack it put and rotate the tires 1/2 turn.

Another would be to overinflate the tires - say 20 psi. No!!, the tire will not explode (unless it is damaged, but then it was going to explode sometime later anyway!)
********************************************************************

CapriRacer

Visit my web site: www.BarrysTireTech.com

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
The thing about concrete with batteries or tires is the old and had some merit when automotive batteries and tires first became popular because of the way they were mfg, the process, assembly, and the compounds, used
The concrete used tended to be thirsty absorbing anything placed on it oil, water, acid, early rubber tires the compounds were chemically different than now being wetter more oil in the rubber to maintain softness and friction, they dried out more easily than modern tires, setting on porous thirsty cement sucking the oils out, early batteries were often wooden boxes lined inside and out with tar to keep the electrolyte/Acid inside, if the wood cracked or split, or the box sides or bottom started separating, the acid would leak to the cement, creating an electrical path/circuit that would drain the battery charge, self discharge plus sitting on the cement with a leaky case equal Dead battery.

In reality, Nether tire life or battery life have been a concern with concrete for many decades , since before most of us were born
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Tire covers are mostly ... For looks not protection.

As someone said Dry Rot of the tires is the major concern. You might want the bearings repacked.

Insect infestation is another issue you might want to bomb it oh say a month before opening up and re-stocking in in the spring... IF it's outdoors take care of roof and siding (Wash roof and wash/wax sides as you normally would)

Make sure batteries are maintained either plug in 3-stage converter) battery minder if not a 3-stage or if you can't plug entire rig in) or battery minder with batteries on a slab of scrap wood in garage (Why set them on scrap wood? Well there is a myth I won't bore you with but if the battery leaks, even a tiny amount. Scrap wood is cheap. Floors and bench tops are not. at least relatively)

Oh my Apartment's 12 volt system consists of 3 big batteries with 3 stage charger. they are on a slab of plywood in a plastic tub.. Full protection. (I take my own advice)
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

magicbus
Explorer
Explorer
valhalla360 wrote:
With modern tires, there is no harm in sitting on concrete.
Good to hear. Ours spends 3/4 of its time sitting on concrete in our barn, hasn’t got sick once, yet (apologies to CSNY). In fact I’m trying to figure out why I never need to add air to my tires, so they must be happy.

Dave
Current: 2018 Winnebago Era A
Previous: Selene 49 Trawler
Previous: Country Coach Allure 36

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
cummins2014 wrote:
As far as tires, I have read its a good idea if on concrete to put something under them if they are stored for long periods of time , wood ,rubber mat.


That was great advice...in the 1950's. With modern tires, there is no harm in sitting on concrete.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Just dewinterize and go on a short trip before you embark on something big. Otherwise just the usual safety and maintenance checks.
Nothing extraordinary.

Kate_and_Ed
Explorer
Explorer
Interesting topic as ours has been sitting too. We have installed hook ups and planned to use as guest house. I’m for covering tires up can’t get Ed to do it don’t know what objection is other then pouring money into elderly MH.
Kathy and Ed

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
jdc1 wrote:
Maybe the guys at a RV dealer would know more? They have hundreds of RV's that sit for a year, then someone comes a long and buys them. All they do is recharge the battery (sometimes replace it).


Except most RV dealers don’t care one iota about that. Just like car dealers. They get them, they sell them, that’s it. If anything, “issues” to them are $ in their pocket for warranty or non warranty work.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold