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Stripped screw holes in shore power cord access hatch

7upman
Explorer
Explorer
I was just setting up at a new campsite and found that my shore power cord was somehow tangled up/kinked inside its storage compartment, making it difficult to pull out. In the process of trying to free it, I noticed the access hatch waterproof seal is broken, and one of the screw holes appears to be stripped (i.e. I tried tightening the screw and it wasn't biting). I'm not sure exactly what the exterior wall is made of that I'm trying to screw into, so I'm not sure if I can shim it with a matchstick or anything like that. The trailer is a 2006 Kodiak 195 hybrid. Suggestions?
2006 Kodiak 195 (Hybrid)
1999 Viking Saga 1906 (Pop-Up)
8 REPLIES 8

ksg5000
Explorer
Explorer
I would inject epoxy, let it dry, apply new screw and call it a day.
Kevin

pawpaw47
Explorer
Explorer
I'd try the match stick shim first. That has bailed me out of trouble on several occasions.
2015 Starcraft Autumn Ridge 329BHU
2015 Starcraft AR-One 18QB
2014 GMC w/6.2L & max tow pkge.

poppin_fresh
Explorer
Explorer
I would remove the door then reapply some butyl tape to seal it and use slightly larger screws with coarser threads to snug it back up.
2016 Bullet 274BHS
2015 Silverado 1500 Double Cab
Andersen WDH

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
It it has aluminum siding, there's likely a wood backing. If fiberglass, I remove the screws and the hatch, rotate the hatch and re-install the screws. If fiberglass, drill pilot holes first. You'll need to recaulk or use some butyl tape. If you can get to the rear of it, you might be able to add a small scrap of wood for backing and screw into that - and use longer screws if needed.

nickthehunter
Nomad II
Nomad II
If the core is foam, I would gorilla glue a plastic insert into the hole. That's how I fixed the screen door latch on my foam core door. You have to glue the plastic insert in first, let it cure for a day, then run the screw in. By the way, you want the water activated Gorilla glue; bonds great to foam.

SAR_Tracker
Explorer
Explorer
Remove screw.

Fill hole with epoxy.

Re-drill pilot hole in appropriate location.

Re-install original screw.
Rusty & Cheryl
2011 F250 2WD 6.2L Gasser
2008 Weekend Warrior FB2100
"Common sense is in spite of, not the result of, education" - Victor Hugo (1802-1885)

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
Don't make this harder than it needs to be.

Take the old screw out, with pliers if necessary, and look to see what kind of material the hole is IN......and what kind of screw it was.

Often an oversized screw is a good answer.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
If it was wood no problem - I have repaired many a stripped out holes using the MOLLY BOLT (Lowes stores)...



These bolts expand back behind the wall and makes a tight repair. Then you can remove the screw... You end up with a nice metal threaded insert...

much like this pictorial shows...


Don't know if this will work with your plastic or fiberglass type wall or not...

Just a thought here...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
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