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Taijgate won't open

IBcarguy
Explorer
Explorer
When hooked up to my TT, the tailgate on my 20113 GMC 2500HD won't clear the power tongue lift which is a pain in the rear when I want to unload anything from the truck without unhooking the trailer. Doesn't look like I can move the tongue lift any farther back so the only alternative will be to lengthen the hitch. It looks like I would have to completely modify the hitch in order to a gain a few inches. I also thought maybe a longer receiver so it sticks out farther. I haven't called any hitch places yet so maybe there are easy solutions that I'm not aware of.
26 REPLIES 26

Hannibal
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 12" shank on my Reese dual cam trunion style hitch. I can open my tailgate with about 1.5" clearance to the electric jack head. Reese sells longer shanks but if anything, I'd want shorter.
2020 F250 STX CC SB 7.3L 10spd 3.55 4x4
2010 F250 XLT CC SB 5.4L 5spdTS 3.73
ex '95 Cummins,'98 12v Cummins,'01.5 Cummins,'03 Cummins; '05 Hemi
2017 Jayco 28RLS TT 32.5'

joshuajim
Explorer II
Explorer II
Here's the rub. It assumes that the dealer installed the proper shank originally. Suppose that it should have been a 12" BUT he installed a 10" because it was cheaper.

Installing a 12" MAY be the proper shank for clearance.
RVing since 1995.

IBcarguy
Explorer
Explorer
Trying to rotate the power jack 90 degrees didn't work. The mounting plate didn't fit right and I'd have to re-drill the holes. So, I guess it's going to be a longer shank. Just looking at it doesn't set right with me, it's pretty long now and a couple of inches longer will look like it might put additional stress on the hitch. Maybe I'll just leave it alone and unhitch if I want to lower the tailgate.

drsteve
Explorer
Explorer
I used a 4" extended hitch bar to clear the spare tire on my '92 conversion van in tight turning/backing situations. I could tell the difference from the standard length, mostly because the van had a fiberglass high top and a deluxe interior that ate up virtually all of the payload before I ever dropped the trailer on the ball. Even with the WD adjusted to compensate, it still bounced more on uneven roads.

So I would say it depends on the TV.
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
Weight dynamics become a factor beyond 3-4" of extension.

Extended WD shanks are commonly available that will give you around 2" additional length, without changing the dynamics appreciably.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

bid_time
Nomad II
Nomad II
pyoung47 wrote:
I have a much longer hitch extension that came with a travel trailer that I had a few years ago. I never used it. I would think that the added length would add much more leverage to the both the vertical and horizontal. This would increase the sag of the truck and cause more instability in wind and when semis go past.
The weight distribution hitch can put back whatever weight was taken off the front by using a longer shank and take out whatever sag may have occurred. I can tell you from my own experience, putting a 2" longer shank on my F250 to clear the tongue jack wasn't even measurable at the scale.

pyoung47
Explorer
Explorer
I have a much longer hitch extension that came with a travel trailer that I had a few years ago. I never used it. I would think that the added length would add much more leverage to the both the vertical and horizontal. This would increase the sag of the truck and cause more instability in wind and when semis go past.

ken56
Explorer
Explorer
Longer shank changes the weight dynamics. That can make a difference in the receiver weight rating being compromised depending on load. 700lbs. at 6 inches is less weight at the receiver than 700 lbs. at 12 inches. Look up the term "turning moments"

As far as holes not lining up, a drill and proper size drill bit will fix that. Drill new holes in the mounting plate.

trail-explorer
Explorer
Explorer
IBcarguy wrote:
I use an equalizer hitch, although I'm not so sure I really need it. This truck is pretty level even with out using the bars.
I like the idea of rotating the power jack 45 degrees, I'll try that before I do anything.


Often times, the holes don't quite line up. It just depends on the jack. If the mounting holes are slotted, it may work.

Other option is a longer hitch shank.
Bob

drsteve
Explorer
Explorer
old guy wrote:
wow that jack E Up is some kind of device. only problem is you need a hand crank jack, it doesn't show using an electric jack.


Scroll down the page. They have them for electrics too.
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP

wing_zealot
Explorer
Explorer
I had the same problem when I bought my new trailer. Just get a longer drawbar, no big deal. Mine is 2" longer then the stock. They make them in several lengths.

IBcarguy
Explorer
Explorer
Yeah, 90 is what I meant!

ken56
Explorer
Explorer
Rotate your jack. Support the tongue. take the pressure off the jack, unbolt the 3 bolts at the frame mounting plate, turn 90 degrees, check the clearance, put the bolts back in, done.

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
IBcarguy wrote:
I use an equalizer hitch, although I'm not so sure I really need it. This truck is pretty level even with out using the bars.
I like the idea of rotating the power jack 45 degrees, I'll try that before I do anything.

90 degrees would probably work better.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine