Tailgate to jack clearance

[iagary]

I have an F150 and a Rockwood Mimi Lite 2109S. Currently I have a manual jack and the tailgate does not clear the jack. My question is what are the issues involved in using a longer hitch shank? I have a Husky Round Bar WD hitch. I am seeing 10", 12" and 14" shanks. I have the 10" so I could gain either two or four inches for the needed clearance. Would this make a significant difference in towing and/or would I need to re-adjust my WD setup? It would seem to me if the WD setup were re-adjusted correctly there would be no significant difference? Any help and advice would be appreciated.

[iagary]

Just now reading installation instructions for a Barker VIP 3500# jack. The instructions say the following:

IMPORTANT NOTICE: If it is necessary to change the position of the powerhead relative to the post and flange (in order to provide clearance between powerhead and LP gas bottle or LP gas cover, or more clearance between the lift gate and the powerhead) loosen set screws and rotate head without lifting off coupling. Retighten set screws when head is in desired position.

It appears to me that one could rotate the power head to the driver or passenger side to gain additional clearance for the tailgate. Can anyone confirm this for me?

THANKS!!

[wing_zealot]

I've have an extend draw bar on my truck with zero problems.

[iagary]

Product is interesting but I guess humor is in the eye of the beholder.

[GordonThree]

check out the jack-e-up... the uTube video is hillarious.

edit: corrected spelling of product

[braindead0]

mkirsch wrote:

Bumpyroad wrote:
I would "guess" that any extension would reduce the weight capacity of your receiver

It does, but we're splitting hairs here. We're talking inches, not feet as in the case of a hitch extension for a truck camper.

Don't use an extension, though. Get an extended shank for your WD hitch.

+1, get a shank with a longer reach. I'd go back to the dealer and ask for the 12" or 14" reach, the 10" is (IMO) the wrong part if you can't open your tailgate while hitched up.

You may have to re-adjust the WD hitch, if holes are in the same arrangement it should just require a minor adjustment.

[iagary]

Yep that's the only way I would do it. Thanks.

[mkirsch]

Bumpyroad wrote:
I would "guess" that any extension would reduce the weight capacity of your receiver

It does, but we're splitting hairs here. We're talking inches, not feet as in the case of a hitch extension for a truck camper.

Don't use an extension, though. Get an extended shank for your WD hitch.

[iagary]

Yep. With two very small children we are always needing something from our cooler, a stroller, etc. from the back of the pickup. I also like to store my hitch and WD bars in the back of the pickup when unhooked. Easiest to put them directly into the pickup when unhooking. WD Bars and Sway bar before unhooking trailer.

[coolbreeze01]

I lower my gate while hooked to the trailer every trip to grab stuff.
I wouldn't put up with the gate hitting the jack very long.

[tvman44]

Should not be a problem. I had to do that years ago when we had a TT.

[cubmaster252]

iagary wrote:
I have an F150 and a Rockwood Mimi Lite 2109S. Currently I have a manual jack and the tailgate does not clear the jack. My question is what are the issues involved in using a longer hitch shank? I have a Husky Round Bar WD hitch. I am seeing 10", 12" and 14" shanks. I have the 10" so I could gain either two or four inches for the needed clearance. Would this make a significant difference in towing and/or would I need to re-adjust my WD setup? It would seem to me if the WD setup were re-adjusted correctly there would be no significant difference? Any help and advice would be appreciated.

I found I had a similar issue with my RAM 1500. In the end, I just rotated the jack motor controls 90 degrees so as to access from the side and not the front. I can now open the tailgate without hitting the jack.

I don't recall if your post mentioned manual or electric jack, but in either case, you may be able to rotate it in the frame and solve your problem.

[iagary]

I am not sure why this would be considered "hitch extend". The manufacturer has three shanks available for my hitch, a 10", 12" and 14". The dealer where I bought it chose to install the 10", probably because it was cheapest (he included hitch in camper price). If he had chose the Husky 12 or 14 inch shank I wouldn't be asking this question. My TT has relatively low amount of storage so I put a lot in the back of the pickup and it would be convenient to be able to have it open. I understand you would never extend your hitch and that is your decision. Personally I would never attach a cargo carrier to the rear bumper of a TT. That is my decision. Yes I know they can be welded/bolted to the frame. Yes I know a few TT come with one. Mine didn't come with one and the manufacturer strongly recommends againstit.

[Golfcart]

Personally, I would never hitch extend. I never found a need to have my tailgate down while hooked up/towing. If im out of room in the truck bed I usually just put stuff on my bumper mount cargo carrier on the back of the trailer. ..Or pile it higher lol


Countless times I've seen people forget about their tailgate being down while backing into a site. It may clear it going straight down the road, but on a tight turn into a campsite...The jack wins more often than the tailgate

[iagary]

Good point. I was thinking about the down torque rather than the sideways torque.

[Bumpyroad]

I bet the F150 manual also doesn't say a word about the very long/huge extensions that are required for some of the larger TCs out there that drastically reduce carrying capacity.
and to go from 10 to 14 is almost adding 50% to the sideways force? don't have any idea about the effect of a WDhitch however.
bumpy