110 volt switch on hot water heater.

[Jay_Pat]

I turned on the 110v element of the hot water heater. The one mounted outside on the hot water heater.
It has the anode rod.

Yesterday, I tried to turn the switch off and it will not move. It is stuck in the on position.
I have pressed a lot harder than normal. It won't move from the on position.

Is this easy to replace?
Pop, the switch out?
Thoughts?
Pat

I used the breaker to turn the hot water heater off.

[mchero]

You need to check the 120vac on both HWH and electrical panel.

[wopachop]

I wasnt sure if it was still pulling power. My guess was element burned out but not true. Flipped the breaker and its 14.5 with the fridge so 11 again.

Its turned off and I bet you're correct on the loose connection. My temp splice after removing the stuck switch looks like it got warm. Totally not safe like you mentioned I have it all turned off. Will order a new switch.

[Lynnmor]

wopachop wrote:


Do they normally pull 11amps? Thats what started the problem. Turned off power and hooked up an amp meter because i was curious. Flipped the water heater back on and read 11amp on the meter. Went inside the trailer 30 mins later and it smelled bad.

11 amps is about right so the heating element is working. There should be no odor from a failing element, so my guess is that you have a very bad connection on or near the water heater. That hot connection is a fire hazard, so find it before turning it back on. If the odor is in the water, then it is an anode or flushing issue.

[wopachop]

Dusty R wrote:
HWH Hot Water Heater. How do you heat hot water?

Ive heard this joke for years but its true at times. It is a hot water heater.

I hear it cycle almost hourly in my trailer. There is hot water in the tank. Then the heater (gas or electric) turns on and heats the hot water even hotter. So yes, its in fact a hot water heater. This happens even if no cold water is introduced into the system.

Mine electric element seems to cycle on way to often. Same problem as others my switch got stuck.

I think my element burnt out the other day. Trailer smelled like burning electrical and water isnt hot. Heard its an easy repair but havnt looked into it yet.

Do they normally pull 11amps? Thats what started the problem. Turned off power and hooked up an amp meter because i was curious. Flipped the water heater back on and read 11amp on the meter. Went inside the trailer 30 mins later and it smelled bad.

[Dave_H_M]

Dusty R wrote:
HWH Hot Water Heater. How do you heat hot water?

Ummmm, Dusty, do you know how many comedians out there that are looking for a job? :W

And Jay Pat, I need to get off my butt and transfer mine inside also.

Thanks for the feed back.

[Dusty_R]

HWH Hot Water Heater. How do you heat hot water?

[mchero]

wopachop wrote:
Do people who full time in RVs keep their water heater turned on all day on 120v?

We leave our HWH on electric 24/7.

[wopachop]

Do people who full time in RVs keep their water heater turned on all day on 120v?

[Retired_JSO]

Amazon has the switches based on Model number. Go get a light and look up inside the switch cavern. There is a twist on the wires that will keep it from pulling out. I got mine out far enough to use needle nose pliers to remove the wires from the old switch and onto the new.

[Jay_Pat]

Follow up post!

I pulled/pried the stuck switch out using a tool with a 90 degree hook on the end.
The switch cleared the housing by about 3/8". There was no more slack in the wires. Just would not come out any farther.
Impossible for me to unplug and keep connectors from falling in the hole.
I had a rv mechanic doing other stuff and had him look at it.
He took the switch with the short wires and lifted up and out. More wire came out the hole.
The switch had 90 degree connectors and I was hitting the connector/wires, pointing down inside the opening.
All I had to do was lift up on the switch and more wire would have come out. Nuts!
He lengthen the wires to reach inside the rv to the water heater cover.
I'm currently looking for a indicator light switch to install on the cover.
This will probably be my last post on this subject.
It will be nice to have an indoor 110 volt switch for the hot water heater.
Thanks, for everyone's input!!!
Pat

[beachcomber_1]

Interesting, my water heater switch carries a load only to a relay. Relay carries the lod for heating element. Switch never has heavy load across terminals, simple and easy fix.

[Jay_Pat]

After looking at the link BB_TX supplied, I’m going to go for replacement.
I do like the idea of the switch in the rv. Will have to check that out.
Thanks everyone for their thoughts and suggestions!!
Pat

[old_guy]

I pop mine out with my pocket knife. it is one of the easier repairs on a TT. you can buy them on amazon or a rv dealership. before I replaced mine I would just use a screw driver or an wrench and basically hit it on or off. then I got smart in my old age and got to thinking that can't be too good for the switch so I buy two or three of them to replace them when they start to stick

[DutchmenSport]

Interesting topic. Three travel trailers and now my first 5er, all had gas-electric water heaters. Never had any problems with the switch on the tank. But, 90% of the time, we use gas too, that save power draw on only 30 amp availability.

Actually, I've never, ever thought about flipping the breaker switch. All mine have had the double switch; one on the tank the other inside the camper on the wall. And only 1, our first one, the Dutchmen Sport had the cotter pin in the switch on the tank. All the others have had solid switches with no hole for a cotter pin. I liked the cotter pin. It was a comfort knowing the switch was in the off position and secured down.