12 volt buck/boost unit

[mlts22]

For an appliance that requires four amps at 12 volts, what do I need to have it work with the 12VDC system.

The catch is that the appliance needs 12 volts. Not 12.whatever, 13.x, or 11.x depending on the SoC of the battery... but true 12.0 volt power. What is the best way to ensure an appliance gets this? Of course, I can wire in a 300 watt Morning Star SureSine inverter, then have the appliance's wall wart plug into that, which guarentees me the correct voltage... but I would be losing a good chunk of electricity via heat this way, so want to find a way to ensure 12 volts, no more, no less, is coming out.

[SCVJeff]

Well ya got us on that one, but I wouldn't be messing with my media server either.

[mlts22]

Thanks. Looks like a Morningstar inverter and a dedicated 300 watt outlet is the way to go. It would have been nice to just go with 12 volts, but as stated, getting power from the power brick does keep the warranty hounds happy.

[MrWizard]

I like the Drok devices I have two in use, in this RV

Just not the way I would go for dealing with this type of electronic device

I prefer the power wasting supplies that comes with my electronic devices
Never any warranty questions
And going from battery to inverter to the power brick is redundant protection

[time2roll]

mlts22 wrote:
Apologies. I've not been much on the forums in a bit, due to work stuff. The device is a Synology DS216+ NAS, which uses 12 volts to power it. Too little or too much, it gets unhappy.

I would use a sine wave inverter to power the brick if the thing is that fussy.
It is only 60 watts. Maybe 70 watts max with conversion losses.
Put another solar panel on the roof or add an extra battery.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Depends on the brick Mr. Wz.

Even a medical grade brick tracks voltage somewhat. The boost DROK is flawless. months 24/7 operation, it's output has risen .004vdc Fabulous

The bucker I use is a Drok and it too is incredibly stable. Far more so than the medical respironics bricks I have kept track of. The only liability is in the packaging - exposed and unsightly.

The very best inverter driving current is of much higher value than what the Drok to Drok conversion would be. 10% loss at 3.0 amps is wildly better than a three amp draw on the batteries with no load placed on the inverter.

But then of course, there exists the issue of warranty of the device in question...

[MrWizard]

its a network server, capable of sending 4k UHD video directly to the monitor
its a $600 Media center/server/cloud/NAS and it comes with two Empty bays, install your own hard drives

I would stick with the supplied DC power brick/wart/supply
plug it into a PSW inverter along with the TV/PC

[MEXICOWANDERER]

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Very stable output with it's own voltage and amperage meters

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Get ahold of the distributor and find out the specs of the

AC ADAPTER X1

Ask the retail cost of said unit. If it's more than $50.00 then iI will be impressed.

This is what you are trying to bridge. Direct DC into the unit?

[mlts22]

Apologies. I've not been much on the forums in a bit, due to work stuff. The device is a Synology DS216+ NAS, which uses 12 volts to power it. Too little or too much, it gets unhappy.

[SCVJeff]

We're known as the (Gladis) Kravetz Crew

[MrWizard]

Probably thinks we are too nosey, asking what and why !!

he has been here long enough to expect that,

[2oldman]

I think he forgot about this post

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Chris Bryant wrote:
{subject change}

subcamper wrote:

DC-DC Converter 10-18VDC in 12VDC out

That's a great site- particularly http://www.powerstream.com/powerhumor.htm

🙂
{/subject change}

I had a -VERY- hard time pulling myself off the floor and regaining my seat after the very first joke...

Intern: How I get to the marketing department?
Engineer: Easy, go west until you can smell it and then turn north until you step in it.

[SCVJeff]

Sam Spade wrote:

MrWizard wrote:

And either one will run directly off the RV 12v systems , no power conversion needed, no damage done

And here's about the 4th person asking what this device IS.....because I think you are mis-interpreting something and causing yourself undue worry and expense.

I've been in Electronics for about 50 years now and have yet to see ANY device that requires an exact input voltage to work right.

And this makes you #5 🙂