cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

20W solar...need controller?

4x4van
Explorer III
Explorer III
I have acquired a 20W solar panel that shows 20vdc when not connected to anything (in full sun). When hooked up to a 12v battery, I have seen it as high as 17vdc. I'm wondering if I can get away with hooking this up to my RV to help keep the batteries (currently 2 12v, soon to be replaced with 2 6v) topped off while in storage, without needing a charge controller? Although the voltage is high, the amperage is pretty low. Will a 1 amp charge at 17 vdc hurt my batteries?
We don't stop playing because we grow old...We grow old because we stop playing!

2004 Itasca Sunrise M-30W
Carson enclosed ATV Trailer
-'85 ATC250R, '12 Husky TE310, '20 CanAm X3 X rs Turbo RR
Zieman Jetski Trailer
-'96 GTi, '96 Waveblaster II
29 REPLIES 29

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
LY, that guy made two mistakes IMO:

A. He said to drop to Float when you got to the absorption voltage with the Lifelines. That is even wrong for flooded batteries. You don't drop to float until the batteries are full.

B. He said the Walmart battery is 125AH, but I believe that is not the 20 hour rate, but the 100 hour rate they use for advertising purposes.
Eg, my 27 size AGM 12121-C1s are rated at 121 AH at the 100 hr rate, but are actually spec at 100 AH at the 20 hr rate.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

landyacht318
Explorer
Explorer
A fully charged healthy battery with no overnight loads applied will be overvolted by 20 watts of solar.

Much depends on the battery, how much current does it require to be maintained at a safe float voltage? its different for all batteries and changes as they age

here is a video of a 12watt solar panel overvolting a pair of GC-2 lifelines

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5RtZe9AW2E&list=UUoPqTkOluQsuu3RpGnxVwFw&index=9


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMxlPIdv2D8&list=UUoPqTkOluQsuu3RpGnxVwFw&index=15

And the guy in that video has more experience and knowledge on DC systems that anybody else who posts on the internet

4x4van
Explorer III
Explorer III
Hmmmm...interesting. OK, I will revisit the idea of a controller or that voltage regulator linked above. Right now, it is hooked up to a single 12v battery that I have in my enclosed trailer (used for interior lighting) as sort of a test case; I'll keep a watch on it and monitor the battery voltage.
We don't stop playing because we grow old...We grow old because we stop playing!

2004 Itasca Sunrise M-30W
Carson enclosed ATV Trailer
-'85 ATC250R, '12 Husky TE310, '20 CanAm X3 X rs Turbo RR
Zieman Jetski Trailer
-'96 GTi, '96 Waveblaster II

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
Glad to see some discussions here...

I am installing a new battery bank which came with a 10WATT SOLAR panel one end of the slide off top lid. I am going to add a second identical 10 WATT Solar panel on the other end.

Was wanting to use the two 10WATT solar panels for trickle charge of the two 6VDC GC2 series battery groups when sitting in the high sun... This battery bank will be sitting on my trailer tongue area...

I too see 16-17 VDC output on the solar panels with nothing hooked up. When I hookup to the batteries this drops back to charge state of the batteries. (12.6-7 VDC...)

Never thought about it may need a regulator on it... Before I started working on my new battery bank I was sitting the one solar panel in the windshield dash area of my truck and had it plugged into an always hot 12V connector. It sit this way for a couple of years and never did any harm to my truck battery. I think the output is around 200 milliamps...


Google image

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
3 tons wrote:
2112 wrote:
You could use something like THIS and a diode between the panel and battery. Adjust it to 13.2V or so at the battery.


This is a very creative idea!!


Might work and might not.

The point is to REDUCE the charging voltage (and current) as the battery charges up. As the internal resistance goes UP, the charging voltage needs to go DOWN.....but a "dumb" power supply does exactly the opposite.

Keeping the voltage constant is only slightly better and would still require some testing and attention.

Get the right tool for the job.
Saving a few pennies up front sometimes costs you DOLLARS on the back end.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
17v on one 12 will be a bit less on two 12s, but still way too high for a float voltage of 13.6v, adjusted for California warm temps to 13.2ish.

So you need a controller that will float in the low 13s.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

3_tons
Explorer III
Explorer III
2112 wrote:
You could use something like THIS and a diode between the panel and battery. Adjust it to 13.2V or so at the battery.


This is a very creative idea!!

jplante4
Explorer II
Explorer II
Moved from General RVing
Jerry & Jeanne
1996 Safari Sahara 3530 - 'White Tiger'
CAT 3126/Allison 6 speed/Magnum Chassis
2014 Equinox AWD / Blue Ox

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
You could use something like THIS and a diode between the panel and battery. Adjust it to 13.2V or so at the battery.
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
17 volts every day in storage is too high. Keep an eye on it and start looking for a controller.

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
4x4van wrote:
Will a 1 amp charge at 17 vdc hurt my batteries?


YES. Over a long period it might.
Maybe as little as a few weeks.
You NEED a controller.

1 amp will slowly charge the batteries.
As the battery charge (voltage) goes up, so will the charger voltage.....maybe as high as 20 volts and it still will push an amp or more.

Using it for very long without a controller might not be much of a risk but it is a small one......especially if you have wet cell batteries.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

4x4van
Explorer III
Explorer III
Yup, it was a freebie. And yes, I disconnect my batteries when in storage. I was just concerned with the 17+ volts, but at only 1 amp, I guess it should be fine.
We don't stop playing because we grow old...We grow old because we stop playing!

2004 Itasca Sunrise M-30W
Carson enclosed ATV Trailer
-'85 ATC250R, '12 Husky TE310, '20 CanAm X3 X rs Turbo RR
Zieman Jetski Trailer
-'96 GTi, '96 Waveblaster II

KD4UPL
Explorer
Explorer
Rule of thumb is that if the charge current is less than 1% of the AH capacity then no charge controller is needed. That means your fine since you've most certainly got more AH capacity than that.
Don't expect that little panel to do much. Sounds like it was free so might as well give it a shot.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
You may as well just disconnect them.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

Ed_Gee
Explorer II
Explorer II
No, a 1amp charge is barely a trickle.....likely won't maintain your batteries in storage unless battery disconnect is on....
Ed - on the Central Oregon coast
2018 Winnebago Fuse 23A
Scion xA toad