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Advice/tips on changing a toilet? Grey water drain cleaners?

Boddhisattvha
Explorer
Explorer
Hey everyone,
I have a two fold question. My first question is about replacing a toilet. I have a 19 ft Hi Lo from 1985 that I am about to swap out the original toilet for a new one. In fact I'm installing this toilet.

I've changed many a toilet in a standard home and I'm wondering if there are any differences? For example do I need a wax seal? If so is it a special wax seal or the standard will work?

Also does anyone know what the grey semi flexible piping is called? The entire trailer is plumbed with it and I need to make some changes to it so I can install the new toilet. The flush pedal is on the opposite side on my new toilet.

It appears really straight forward but past experience has taught me that with RV's it rarely is as it appears.

Second question is about using drain cleaners for my grey water lines. My local hardware store has a formaldehyde free drain cleaner for septic systems that uses only natural enzymes. It says it's safe on any surface that isn't harmed by water. Anyone have any experience with this? I'm just trying to avoid having to special order the drain cleaner and pay shipping on it.
Thanks in advance!
12 REPLIES 12

mlts22
Explorer
Explorer
I would avoid Sharkbite-style fittings. I've personally not used them, but people on the Airstream forum have found that the only thing separating you from disaster is one O-ring which tends to get eaten over time. Some of these fittings are getting better, using two O-rings, but the issue does still remin.

The Flairit fittings don't use O-rings, so seem to be something good for the long haul.

Of course, the best way to do it is to use Uponor PEX tubing and expansion fittings which stay on for good, but the tool for those is very expensive.

Boddhisattvha
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks very much!

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
http://www.flairit.com/
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

Boddhisattvha
Explorer
Explorer
RJs,
A quick glance through Lowe's Hardware which is a hardware store near me shows PEX crimp fittings or compression fittings. Can you post a link to the flair fittings you are talking about so I know what I am looking for?

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
Note,
On 1/2" or smaller, there is absolutely no reason to ever use crimps on Pex tubing, except CHEAP, and that's only if you already have the expensive crimper tool. Crimps are used by many MFGs for one reason only, CHEAP.

I myself use all "flair'it" fittings, what all RV stores, and most hardware stores sell.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

Boddhisattvha
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks much everyone!

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
There are "Shark Bite" fittings for COPPER tubing, and similar ones for the "PEX" tubing used in RV water systems. Just cut the tubing clean and square, push into the fitting, it's done.
I raised our toilet (Thetford AquaMagic IV) using a Pedestal. I found that a PEX shutoff valve (Shark Bite design) added about the height of the pedestal to the length of the supply line. Cut the line and installed the shutoff valve I wanted anyway. Came out just right.
EDIT: Oh, RV toilets use a Foam Ring instead of the Wax Ring we use at home. Much less messy.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

rockhillmanor
Explorer
Explorer
I'll just add a tip about the water lines to it.

I took off old toilet. Went to put new one in and soon realized I didn't figure for the height of the new toilet and the water line was too short. Did this while on the road and could NOT find a store to buy the lines, crimps or extension material.......Had to take new one off and put old one back on. ๐Ÿ˜ž

We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned,
so as to have the life that is waiting for us.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
T thought all drain is ABS plastic, which adapts to all P traps etc etc.

Any grey tubing is PB polybutylene, which cracks when frozen. Any mods to pressure line, use PEX tubing w/ "Flair-it" fittings, found at any hardware store and RV supplys
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Remove the sink 'P' trap and clean it out
With 'P' trap out stick garden hose down drain line and flush it out.

What color is the drain line..grey?
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

Boddhisattvha
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the response. I actually found this videothat pretty much told me just about everything I need to know.

My issue with the grey lines is that the sink in the kitchen is draining pretty slow so I think I've got some build up. I'm not concerned with the tanks themselves, just the lines.

And do you know what the lines are made of? They aren't pvc, cpvc, or abs.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Toilet.......

Turn off water supply
Disconnect water line to toilet
Remove the hold down bolts (just like residential)
Remove toilet

Clean floor flange....install gasket that comes with new toilet
Set toilet
Tighten hold down bolts......snug, just enough to compress gasket and so toilet is solid
Hook up water supply (NOW is a good time to install a shut off valve)
Turn on water and check for leaks/toilet operation

As for the grey tank (and black tank) cleaners........unless tanks are really dirty with crud built up FORGET about all them chemicals, deodorizers, enzymes etc. The tanks are HOLDING tanks not septic tanks.
Dump them when they are full (almost full---higher the level the better)
Rinse/flush
Add couple gallons back into tank after dumping----keeps tank bottom wet so crud doesn't build up/dry out and STINK

Water is the only chemical you really need.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31