Atwood WH - Suddenly Stopped Working on Electric

[Traver8]

Hi All, I have an Atwood water heater, model GC6A (I think) LP and Electric. It is about a year old and I have been using it full time for the past 9 months. I have been using it on the electric side and it has been working fine until I came back from work last night. Water was not hot. Did a quick check of the switch, breaker, etc. and found nothing obviously wrong. Switched on the LP side and it worked fine - heated and then shut down. Turned off the LP to focus on the electric side. Read some info on the web that said turn off the electric, wait a bit and then turn back on as a reset. I tried that and think it worked as I had hot water this morning at the start of my shower but ran out at the end so I think it quit again. The electric is at the back of the unit deep into a cabinet under my sink so I have not yet gotten a close look at things there.

I am leaning toward a faulty thermostat but would like to know if any of you have other thoughts on things I should check when I manage to crawl in and get a look.

Thanks for the help. This forum is a great resource and I have learned a lot over the past year of ownership.

Terry

[wa8yxm]

On the 'Back side' (inside) you will need to find the box that holds the relay, With power OFF AT THE CIRCUIT BREAKER. to the water heater check the leads to the heater with an Ohmmeter.. I'm guessing open circuit. If you see a good circuit (The resistance will be like .1 ohm) then with the cover off, and the meter .. elsewhere.. and the tank cool, and the control switches off, REstore the breaker to ON, and then observe the relay as your partner activates the ELECTRIC switch.

It should pull in within 1 minute, if not.. Control board.

With the cover off the relay box.

[Old-Biscuit]

2013 Jayco so it only has one set of t-stats that control both electric & propane

It also uses a 12V DC relay to activate the 110V AC to electric element.
The electric ON/OFF switch is DC that operates the relay.
Check DC fuses for a bad fuse. Test the fuse don't just look.

On the backside of WH is a black cover over the electric element and relay is inside that cover. Should be able to hear relay make up when you turn switch ON.
Then check for 110V AC power at element terminals.
Got 110V AC then disconnect wires and check continuity of element.
OR just replace element (WH needs to be completely drained.)

[Chris_Bryant]

On the newer Atwood combination units, the same thermostat serves for both LP and electric, so if it works on LP, the thermostat is fine. The other possibilities are bad connection, a relay on the rear of the unit and the element.

[jram116]

Yep, sure sounds like the heating element went out. You probably had warm water left over in the tank from when you warmed it with your lp. I just replaced my neighbors in his TC, good news is that it will only run you about $15 bucks. Test it with a meter then you will know for sure, GL.

[beemerphile1]

First step is to see if power is at element. If not work backwards. If power is present the element is bad.

[RoyB]

You will need to look for 120VAC at the terminals on the AC heater element. If you read 120VAC at the terminals then the element has opened up and will need to be pulled out for inspection.

My Suburban water heater on my POPUP trailer is only propane... Wish I had the AC element installed.

Roy Ken