โMar-20-2021 06:07 PM
โMar-25-2021 01:48 PM
โMar-21-2021 08:35 PM
otrfun wrote:
This isolator (and many rebranded versions of it) appear to be very popular on Amazon.
โMar-21-2021 08:01 PM
otrfun wrote:
Got a reply back from the seller of the $85 KeyLine Battery Isolator about its parasitic current. Their reply: "Yes, it is always monitoring and takes .02 Amps to do so." 20ma is more than acceptable for our application.
FWIW, there's a number of battery isolators on Amazon that look eerily similar to the KeyLine, have the same dimensions (2.6 x 2.6 x 2), voltage cut out/in (12.8v/13.3v) and amperage specs (140a) as the KeyLine, but cost significantly less (one was only $27).
โMar-21-2021 06:02 PM
โMar-21-2021 09:17 AM
โMar-21-2021 08:40 AM
BFL13 wrote:
Our truck now sits a while between TC trips so I use a small charger clamped to the truck battery and plugged into the stick-house. The "2a" charger sits at 13.4v forever; it is not like a trickle charger that shuts off.
I can't float the house batts in the TC on the truck and float the truck battery from there anymore via 7-pin like before (Chev has no isolator like a Ford does) now that I have the Renogy DC-DC in the camper, which does isolate the truck from the TC.
The Ford Class C engine batt is floated the same way with a small charger on it while the house is on converter float.
Some have a little solar set they use on the engine batt for that job.
โMar-21-2021 08:38 AM
otrfun wrote:wa8yxm wrote:In your estimation how much current translates to "tiny" leakage? Less than 50ma?
There are two basic types of battery isolators and on one of them two control systems
Diode isolators have no control system bit it is possible they may present a tiny "leakage" current.. I doubt you'd be able to measure it it's that small.
Relay isolators when isolated it's 100 percent no leakage but the control system may have a voltage sensor that "draws again a very tiny amount a very very tiny amount.
โMar-21-2021 08:32 AM
โMar-21-2021 08:03 AM
BFL13 wrote:That's my concern. Right now we only get about 4-5 weeks before the battery voltage on our '16 Ram Cummins drops down to 12.2v (truck is not a daily driver). Even 50-100ma of parasitic from a battery isolator could potentially drop our max time between engine starts to 2-3 weeks.otrfun wrote:Looks like that thing is not really an isolator and it could allow some draw from the starting battery, but if the starting battery voltage falls below 12.8 it does get isolated? Not clear. I don't really understand what that thing is good for, but more coffee might help.MEXICOWANDERER wrote:Havenโt purchased one yet. This isolator (and many rebranded versions of it) appear to be very popular on Amazon.
ISOLATOR covers a large territory. Which type do you have??
โMar-21-2021 07:45 AM
wa8yxm wrote:In your estimation how much current translates to "tiny" leakage? Less than 50ma?
There are two basic types of battery isolators and on one of them two control systems
Diode isolators have no control system bit it is possible they may present a tiny "leakage" current.. I doubt you'd be able to measure it it's that small.
Relay isolators when isolated it's 100 percent no leakage but the control system may have a voltage sensor that "draws again a very tiny amount a very very tiny amount.
โMar-21-2021 07:28 AM
otrfun wrote:MEXICOWANDERER wrote:Havenโt purchased one yet. This isolator (and many rebranded versions of it) appear to be very popular on Amazon.
ISOLATOR covers a large territory. Which type do you have??
โMar-21-2021 06:52 AM
theoldwizard1 wrote:Agree. I own several clamp ammeters. Unfortunately, it's hard to measure the parasitic current of something you don't yet have or own; hence the reason for my post.
This is why every RVer should have a "clamp meter" to quickly and easily measure current.
Uni-T B4Q094 UT210E True RMS AC/DC Current Mini Clamp Meter
โMar-21-2021 06:34 AM
โMar-21-2021 06:10 AM