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Black tank dump valve replacement tips?

PNW_Steve
Explorer
Explorer
Hey Everyone,

I am having trouble with the dump valve on my black tank leaking. Just a slow leak.
I dumped and rinsed then added some "seal conditioner" that I found at an RV shop.

That appeared to resolve the issue for a few days. Now it has started leaking again. I am thinking that replacement is the best solution. If I am able to find the parts here in San Carlos I am going to tackle the replacement.

Do any of you have any tips or suggestions for making this easier or less offensive?

Any volunteers to show me how it should be done 🙂 ?

Thanks

Steve
2004.5 Dodge 3500 5.9 Cummins, NV5400, 5" turbo back stainless exhaust, Edger programmer & 22.5 Alcoa's
2002 Forest River 36 5th Wheel (staying home)
1992 Jayco 29 5th Wheel (Mexico veteran & headed back)
2002 "faux" Wanderlodge 40' My new toy....
15 REPLIES 15

John_Wayne
Explorer II
Explorer II
Some have mentioned to use thin metal sheets on each side of the new valve when sliding it between the fittings to keep the seals in place when you slide the new valve in. Line every thing up pull the metal sheets out insert bolts and nuts and done.
John & Carol Life members
01 31'Sea View single slide, F53 V-10 with 134,000 miles and counting.
2012 Jeep Liberty Smi brake system
Security by Bentley
God Bless

KF6HCH

PNW_Steve
Explorer
Explorer
Artum Snowbird wrote:
And after holding the drain open when the rig is sloped to drain into a bucket, then turn the rig around so that the drain valve is higher than the tank.


Great tip!

I think I can accomplish the same by raising and lowering the landing gear.

Thank you.
2004.5 Dodge 3500 5.9 Cummins, NV5400, 5" turbo back stainless exhaust, Edger programmer & 22.5 Alcoa's
2002 Forest River 36 5th Wheel (staying home)
1992 Jayco 29 5th Wheel (Mexico veteran & headed back)
2002 "faux" Wanderlodge 40' My new toy....

PNW_Steve
Explorer
Explorer
parkdep wrote:
This is a real easy fix.Twist-on-Repair Waste Valve


I am parked with full hookups. Gray valve is open. Black valve is closed. Not sure how that would play....
2004.5 Dodge 3500 5.9 Cummins, NV5400, 5" turbo back stainless exhaust, Edger programmer & 22.5 Alcoa's
2002 Forest River 36 5th Wheel (staying home)
1992 Jayco 29 5th Wheel (Mexico veteran & headed back)
2002 "faux" Wanderlodge 40' My new toy....

John_Joey
Explorer
Explorer
PNW_Steve wrote:
...Do any of you have any tips or suggestions for making this easier or less offensive?


Have DW do it.
There’s no fool, like an old fool.

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Explorer II
best place I found to get the valteras was amazon

if you do that twist on thingy. you will have a huge pop cycle in the pipe if it freezes

a lot of people includig me cut a service hoe in ghe underbelly for the change out.

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
I like that Valterra Twist-On Repair Valve linked above. Even when the system is working well, or we think it is, could be nice to have a backstop. Anything to prevent the "Hydraulic Surprise..."
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

cochise49
Explorer
Explorer
Or this.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0iLd2CnyKI
Bev& Keith
2014 Winnebago Adventurer 38Q
2013 Honda CRV, Roadmaster Falcon AT, Invisibrake

ernie1
Explorer
Explorer
Do not use any plumbers grease or any other grease that is a petroleum product. I've found some plumbers grease has a petroleum base and some have a silicone base. Use silicone based grease only. Petroleum greases will, in the long run, swell the seals and make them very hard to operate. In my case, it was so hard to operate the blade valve that the seals popped loose and "stuff" came out onto the parking lot at a Kmart.

parkdep
Explorer
Explorer
This is a real easy fix.Twist-on-Repair Waste Valve
:R

Dick_B
Explorer
Explorer
Replace with Valterra.
Dick_B
2003 SunnyBrook 27FKS
2011 3/4 T Chevrolet Suburban
Equal-i-zer Hitch
One wife, two electric bikes (both Currie Tech Path+ models)

HappyKayakers
Explorer
Explorer
I've had a few slow leaks from the black tank. Never replaced the valve, just did a very good fill/flush the next time. After refilling the tank with fresh water, I open the valve slightly. The increased flow pressure going past the valve seat usually pulls whatever TP was stuck there so it can seat properly.
Joe, Mary and Dakota, the wacko cat
Fulltiming since 2006
2006 Dodge 3500 QC CTD SRW Jacobs Exhaust brake
2017 Open Range 3X388RKS, side porch

pugslyyy
Explorer
Explorer
The good news is that changing the valve is a pretty easy task. Getting access to the valve may be a bit more tricky (I have to drop underbelly panels to get at mine).

Do a good leak check before you put everything back together.

donn0128
Explorer II
Explorer II
Just did mine for other reasons. Had to drop the underbelly. The rest is pretty simple. 4 bolts and nuts hold the valve together. Remove them, and open the gap between the two halves. Slip the old blade and gaskets out. Using lots of plumbers grease, grease up the new parts. Slip the new blade with gaskets in place. Install bolts and snug down. Do not over or under tighten or you will have a leak. Test by adding water to the tank. Yes it is a crappy job. Be sure to use disposable rubber gloves.

Artum_Snowbird
Explorer
Explorer
And after holding the drain open when the rig is sloped to drain into a bucket, then turn the rig around so that the drain valve is higher than the tank.
Mike
2012 Winnebago Impulse Silver 26QP
2005 16.6 Double Eagle
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK
previously Snowbird Campers,
Triple E Motorhome and Fifth Wheel