Can't fix my water heater!! GOING INSANE!

[hamel]

I own a 1996 Holiday Rambler Vacationer SE, Class A motorhome. This is my first RV and I've been fixing any issues (LOTS OF ISSUES! -.-) by myself to save money. I was having an issue with my water heater (before I fixed anything) where I would switch the switch on and it would be in lockout mode and I'd have to switch it on and off for like 40 minutes before it'd kick on. Sometimes it'd stay on, sometimes it wouldn't. Sometimes it would reheat properly, sometimes it wouldn't. Sometimes I just couldn't get it out of lockout and I'd have to try the next day.

Fast forward. I want to fix this thing. I bought all new parts on Amazon. This included, new control board, new eco and thermo, and new thermal cutoff. I replaced everything and finally got to the wiring where I was confused. The connector was different then the one I had on before but I was assured this control panel would work with my model, the G6A-8E. After TONS of trial and error switching the cables in different spots (probably not the best idea, I know) I finally found a wire sequence where the igniter would start sparking and the lockout light would stay off. (I looked in the manual for the wiring sequence. The one it showed didn't work. I looked everywhere online, couldn't find anything and the sequence of wiring before I switched out the board didn't work either). After buttoning everything up and a very long day I went inside and held my breath as I pressed the switch.

BOOM! IGNITION! FLAWLESSLY!

I can't tell you how happy I was, let alone my wife. I took a super hot amazing shower. As soon as the hot water in the tank dropped I heard it kick back on, beautifully. My wife took a shower; kicked right back on. Dishes were next; kicked right on. I thought this was the end of the hot water fiasco. Another challenge triumphed. Wellllllllllllllll, I was wrong.

The next night my wife went to switch on the water heater so we could do dishes. Then came the dreaded, "Juuuuuuusssssstinnn........... The water heater isn't turning on". I always assume she messes something up so I go and check but low and behold; not working. I go outside do my normal checks, wires, connections, etc. I have her try it a couple of times and I realize the igniter is still sparking but I don't hear propane spraying at all. The other strange thing is the lockout light didn't come on (which makes me wonder if my wiring sequence is still wrong). I've tried all sorts of things, checked everything I could on the internet, check my manual, but I can not figure this out. I'm hoping it is the stupid wiring sequence but I am just confused why it worked flawless just for the next day it not to work at all. I have propane and the stove tops have been working fine. This is my last resort before calling a tech, which I don't want to do.

Pictures attached of Before/After
https://imgur.com/a/x5FEA

[hamel]

enblethen wrote:
You need to identify the wire the blue leaves from the circuit board at the switch end.
The switch should have a wire that comes from the 12 volt DC positive, a wire that goes to the circuit board, brown input, the return, blue wire from the circuit board and a negative from the 12 volt system.
Added up that is four wires.
Look at page 7 of the manual, upper right corner.
Where did you get switch? It is the wrong one!

You know, I told my wife this. I'm thinking its the switch too! The switch that was in there I accidentally broke so I went to auto zone and found a three pronged switch that looked the same size.

Hopefully you read this and go, "DUH YOU IDIOT! GO GET A NEW SWITCH AT "BLAH BLAH BLAH" THAT'll FIX IT!"

LOL. Let me know what you think.

[enblethen]

You need to identify the wire the blue leaves from the circuit board at the switch end.
The switch should have a wire that comes from the 12 volt DC positive, a wire that goes to the circuit board, brown input, the return, blue wire from the circuit board and a negative from the 12 volt system.
Added up that is four wires.
Look at page 7 of the manual, upper right corner.
Where did you get switch? It is the wrong one!

[hamel]

enblethen wrote:
The blue wire from the circuit board should go to the switch light then to 12 volt negative.
What is shown in last photo is the light would come on when switch is on "on" position.

Not really understanding what I'd have to do then. There is no blue wire coming into the bathroom.

[enblethen]

The blue wire from the circuit board should go to the switch light then to 12 volt negative.
What is shown in last photo is the light would come on when switch is on "on" position.

[hamel]

https://imgur.com/a/NgynY

Thats the new rocker switch I put in

[hamel]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Correct wiring is:

Brown (12V DC from On/Off Switch)-----to/thru thermal fuse----to/thru T-stat---to TOP Connector on Control Board

- (2nd space on connector empty)

Blue (12V DC from Control Board to Fault Light)
Red (12V DC from Control Board to/thru ECO ---to Gas Valve Solenoids to GRD (Both solenoids have to energize for gas valve to open/flow propane)

- (5th space on connector empty)

Green (12V DC Neg/Ground)



Spark Electrode High Tension Wire connects to 'voltage transformer' on Control Board....sends 2000V to Spark Electrode to ignite propane
Gas Valve only has power to solenoids for 6-8 seconds WHILE spark electrode fires.


Trace the DC Path

On/OFF switch ---Brown wire to control board, then Red wire to gas valve
If you have 12V DC all the way to/thru gas valve solenoids then you should be able to 'manually' light the propane using a BBQ lighter.

Where are you placing Brown wire to get Spark but no propane??

So oddly I was getting a spark with this set-up

Skip
Skip
Red
Brown
Blue
Green

Spark but gas won't open

When I have it the correct way I have

Gas open, no spark

[Old-Biscuit]

Correct wiring is:

Brown (12V DC from On/Off Switch)-----to/thru thermal fuse----to/thru T-stat---to TOP Connector on Control Board

- (2nd space on connector empty)

Blue (12V DC from Control Board to Fault Light)
Red (12V DC from Control Board to/thru ECO ---to Gas Valve Solenoids to GRD (Both solenoids have to energize for gas valve to open/flow propane)

- (5th space on connector empty)

Green (12V DC Neg/Ground)



Spark Electrode High Tension Wire connects to 'voltage transformer' on Control Board....sends 2000V to Spark Electrode to ignite propane
Gas Valve only has power to solenoids for 6-8 seconds WHILE spark electrode fires.


Trace the DC Path

On/OFF switch ---Brown wire to control board, then Red wire to gas valve
If you have 12V DC all the way to/thru gas valve solenoids then you should be able to 'manually' light the propane using a BBQ lighter.

Where are you placing Brown wire to get Spark but no propane??

[hamel]

enblethen wrote:
Lock out comes on because it didn't fire.
Your new board is odd and should have come with instruction sheet or label on this Universal board.

They just gave me Atwood literature. China and Amazon, I tell you what. -.- I emailed a mobile RV repair. They can fix and replace so Im going to get a quote and see what they say when they email me back tomorrow.

[enblethen]

Lock out comes on because it didn't fire.
Your new board is odd and should have come with instruction sheet or label on this Universal board.

[BFL13]

It worked for a while then plogged up again? IMO do the old clean- out- the- propane- line trick with mineral spirits to make sure the sprayer works. You can blow spirits into it at one end with a pipe still on it, so it should squirt mineral spirits like a little water pistol.

Spit out afterwards and have a beer. Now maybe it will keep working the second time and beyond. BTDT.

[hamel]

https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-91504-Universal-Ignition-Control/dp/B004QMXS9I/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1511144371&sr=1-1&keywords=Atwood+91504+Universal+Ignition+Control

This is the control panel.

Brown
-
Blue
Red
-
Green

I get propane, no spark, and lockout.

[enblethen]

Take the connector loose from the circuit board
Hold it vertically so you are looking at the contacts on the right side.
The top wire should be the brown.

[enblethen]

Was there anything on the new board indicating positions of the wires like on the Dinosaur link.
Almost sounds like they could be reversed.
Make and model of new circuit board?

[hamel]

enblethen wrote:
Make sure the electrode is adjust to about 1/8 inch from ground probe.

I'd tried this. I don't believe that to be the issue because like I said with the brown wire in a certain spot the sparker starts working. I can hear and see it sparking but with the wire configuration I won't hear the propane flap over and propane flow. If I change the sequence (currently the manuals) I got propane (can hear the flap open and flow) but the igniter doesn't try to work at all. I've emailed a mobile repair place for a quote on replacement. Not what I wanted but might be the only fix.

[enblethen]

Make sure the electrode is adjust to about 1/8 inch from ground probe.