Condensate Drain for Dometic Refrigerator

[pyoung47]

As many are aware the older Dometic refrigerators (mine is a 07 model) use a drain hose that after a few years disintegrates. Most of the postings that I have seen involve either removing the catch basin inside the refrigerator or pulling the entire unit out of the wall.

I found that with a little wiggling, I could reach the barb connector from the catch basin by reaching up through the outside access panel. I used a large butcher knife to cut the zip tie holding the old hose and removed it. I purchased about 3 1/2 feet of 1/2 inch ID, 5/8 OD vinyl at lowes and it pushed easily but securly over the barb. I fastened it with a compression clamp -- although I don't think it was necessary.

[wolfe10]

Net, net-- more than 1" clearance from refrigerator to outside wall and you need to install a baffle to direct the air flow through the condenser.

Read you refrigerator's installation manual (hard copy or on-line.

[dougrainer]

lawrosa wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

pyoung47 wrote:
"I would question the installation if you have room to reach up and replace it- specs call for a maximum of 1" clearance at the back."

I'm really not sure what you mean by "I would question the installation. . . . "

This isn't a science of rockets, it just drains water from the inside of the refrigerator.

Trust me, I did it.

What he means by installation is--IF you had access to reach up there without pulling the refer, the Installation is NOT CORRECT. If you install baffles to get that 1 inch clearance your refer will operate and cool much better. Doug

I have lots of clearance.. But I have the roof vent...

Refridge is as far back as it will go.

I have 8" or more

The REASON for that 1 inch is to force the cooling convection air THRU the upper Condensor fins. If you have more than I inch then your refer is NOT cooling to its potential. HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE ROOF VENT. Doug

[lawrosa]

dougrainer wrote:

pyoung47 wrote:
"I would question the installation if you have room to reach up and replace it- specs call for a maximum of 1" clearance at the back."

I'm really not sure what you mean by "I would question the installation. . . . "

This isn't a science of rockets, it just drains water from the inside of the refrigerator.

Trust me, I did it.

What he means by installation is--IF you had access to reach up there without pulling the refer, the Installation is NOT CORRECT. If you install baffles to get that 1 inch clearance your refer will operate and cool much better. Doug

I have lots of clearance.. But I have the roof vent...

Refridge is as far back as it will go.

I have 8" or more

[Chris_Bryant]

pyoung47 wrote:
"I would question the installation if you have room to reach up and replace it- specs call for a maximum of 1" clearance at the back."

I'm really not sure what you mean by "I would question the installation. . . . "

This isn't a science of rockets, it just drains water from the inside of the refrigerator.

Trust me, I did it.

Sorry- what they said- I question the original installation of the refrigerator, not what you did. As others have said, the refrigerator should have no more than 1 inch of clearance at the back- not enough to reach up and replace the drain tube.

Sorry for the confusion.

[dougrainer]

pyoung47 wrote:
"I would question the installation if you have room to reach up and replace it- specs call for a maximum of 1" clearance at the back."

I'm really not sure what you mean by "I would question the installation. . . . "

This isn't a science of rockets, it just drains water from the inside of the refrigerator.

Trust me, I did it.

What he means by installation is--IF you had access to reach up there without pulling the refer, the Installation is NOT CORRECT. If you install baffles to get that 1 inch clearance your refer will operate and cool much better. Doug

[BB_TX]

I did the same as the OP. Although since my fridge is in a slide I have both a lower and upper side wall vent. Just a matter of reaching in thru the maze of tubes, wires and other obstructions and feeling your way thru the job. Less daunting than pulling the fridge out.

I cut a piece from a plastic mesh dish scrubber, compressed it as much as I could, and pushed it into the end of the new drain hose. Keeps bugs out while letting water drain. And while not a check valve, it does limit air flow.

[IAMICHABOD]

pyoung47 wrote:
Plug no - it's lost somewhere between here and the thousands of miles I've traveled. Loop yes. Tested -- good to go. (Wow! I followed the link for the plug. About $12.00 for that little
dude.

That is what I thought! I got 2 pack on E Bay for $5.99 plus free shipping.

[pianotuna]

I loop once freezing weather has finished. In the fall, I deloop as I don't want a frozen drain hose.

[wolfe10]

delete-- duplicate post.

[wolfe10]

He is not questioning the water drain.

Absorption refrigerators have a specific dimension required between the back of the refrigerator and the wall-- 1" is common. Enough room to reach up there, and you will not have laminar air flow over the cooling unit.

[pyoung47]

"I would question the installation if you have room to reach up and replace it- specs call for a maximum of 1" clearance at the back."

I'm really not sure what you mean by "I would question the installation. . . . "

This isn't a science of rockets, it just drains water from the inside of the refrigerator.

Trust me, I did it.

[Chris_Bryant]

I would question the installation if you have room to reach up and replace it- specs call for a maximum of 1" clearance at the back.

[SoundGuy]

lawrosa wrote:
The drain plug is only to keep bugs out... Not needed really IMO

Apparently Dometic doesn't agree. From Page 23 of this Dometic Diagnostic Service Manual that plug is actually a check valve that serves a very important function ...

"Another source for an air leaks could be the drain hose.
When units are installed, there is a check valve at the end
of the drain. At install the hose might be shortened and
the check valve must be moved to the end of drain hose.
Any time lack of performance or excessive frost is experienced, look for the check valve at the end of hose."

Manual says nothing about looping the drain hose. 😉

[pyoung47]

Plug no - it's lost somewhere between here and the thousands of miles I've traveled. Loop yes. Tested -- good to go. (Wow! I followed the link for the plug. About $12.00 for that little dude.