Dimmer switch or cover for bright bedroom light?

[mtofell1]

Does anyone have an easy solution for the light over the bed in my 5th wheel being as bright as search light? The things I find online for dimmers look like switch replacements but the light in question isn't on a switch. I found some Youtube videos but bailed when I see people tearing apart the cabinets and pulling wires. I'd even be happy with a somewhat opaque cover or just anything to make this thing usable. My trailer is a 2016 and I believe the lights are LED.

[dclark1946]

Following this thread since we have a similar problem in our trailer with the LED dome lights mounted on the underside of the cabinets over the head of the bed. The fixture has a small pwb with an LED array and a push switch in the middle of the lens. It is the same style used throughout the trailer and is fine for ceiling lighting (other than you have to hit the switch dead center or it gets stuck)but too bright for over the bed.

Ideally I would like to find a replacement fixture with brightness control (or at least not as bright) so the existing 12V wiring could be used.

[dclark1946]

Following this thread since we have a similar problem in our trailer with the LED dome lights mounted on the underside of the cabinets over the head of the bed. The fixture has a small pwb with an LED array and a push switch in the middle of the lens. It is the same style used throughout the trailer and is fine for ceiling lighting (other than you have to hit the switch dead center or it gets stuck) but too bright for over the bed.
Ideally I would like to find a replacement fixture with more brighntess control features (or just not as bright) so I can use the existing 12V wiring.

[D_E_Bishop]

MrWizard wrote:

Dick_B wrote:
Replace the bulb with one with less lumens?
or replace the fixture. We have two of these which work well: Gustafson Lighting RV Trailer Camper Lighting Brass Reading Light 51AM-559XY

this
buy a low power less bright LED bulb for a few bucks and put that in the fixture

I think the OP wanted not only to dim the lights but to be able to turn them on and off without reaching up on the ceiling to do so. He has no wall switch. The remote on/off - dimmer would give him both.

[Edd505]

hornet28 wrote:


Double talk. First sentence says a switch at light and at the end you say "has anyone EVER seen a light in an RV that stays on 100% of the time with no switch anywhere?" It can't be both

Guess you just jumped in at the end with the "Double talk" comment and never read to original post. Can't be constructive: Don't post.

[MrWizard]

Dick_B wrote:
Replace the bulb with one with less lumens?
or replace the fixture. We have two of these which work well: Gustafson Lighting RV Trailer Camper Lighting Brass Reading Light 51AM-559XY

this
buy a low power less bright LED bulb for a few bucks and put that in the fixture

[Bumpyroad]

D.E.Bishop wrote:
It may be too late for this guy but if anyone needs a 12vcd ON/OFF - Dimmer switch, here is the link to one.

Simple installation, parallel the module and the fixture switch and waa-laa, you have a remote on/off - dimmer switch. We have wall switches for all our lights but maybe our next rig won't, so I'm ordering two. The load side is labeled LED.

looks interesting but the ad confuses me. a place for number of units ad also a place for quantity?? also $5.00 shipping seems to be for one unit and not that much for additional units? seems to me that without a wall switch you would just have to put in the fixture in parallel with the switch in the ceiling fixture???
bumpy

[D_E_Bishop]

It may be too late for this guy but if anyone needs a 12vcd ON/OFF - Dimmer switch, here is the link to one.

Simple installation, parallel the module and the fixture switch and waa-laa, you have a remote on/off - dimmer switch. We have wall switches for all our lights but maybe our next rig won't, so I'm ordering two. The load side is labeled LED.

[sonora]

D.E.Bishop wrote:

mtofell1 wrote:
Thanks for the replies everyone. Yes, it's LED and has about 10 diodes in a row. And, yes, it has a switch at the light. I guess I assumed too much with people understanding what I meant in saying it has no switch. I meant no switch on the wall (just curious, has anyone EVER seen a light in an RV that stays on 100% of the time with no switch anywhere?) I'm liking the window tint (or duct tape :)) idea the most at this point.

I understood from the beginning what your problem was and how you turned the light on and off, a pretty basic concept in RVs, now I'm trying to figure out how you can dim the light with the least amount of effort. To me using window film or duct tape is okay and very easy but not to my liking. I like to mess around and try stuff to modify things like your ceiling light so that they can be returned to their original state with as little effort as possible.

If you remove the trim ring and lens, you could simply cover as many of the LEDs as needed. I might try duct tape cut into small pieces or anything that would totally block the light. Black paint over the LED's lens would work but be hard to return to normal, window film would give a weird coloration to the light passing through. My inclination is to remove the fixture and remove a few of the LEDs as needed. A little more work to return to original but doable.

There are a lot of different shape, sizes and colors of wiremolds that are self adhesive and could be run from a surface mount on/off switch to the fixture. You've been alerted to the fact that the fixture may not be compatable with a dimmer/on/off switch. Maybe that is not an option but replacing the fixture may be an option. You don't have to get an exact fitting replacement fixture, there are a lot of fixtures to be found on line.

There are a lot of 12 volt remote controlled switches on the market. A fob very similar to a car key fob and a small receiver that most likely be hidden in the ceiling and connected to the fixture after you reduce the light output. The receivers are small and many no more than an inch in height. the ceilings in my rig are foam filled with foam more than an inch thick.

The point is think about what you can find on line. Ebay has millions of items you can search and get ideas from. I've currently got three different sets of RF remote setups. I've got pages and pages of how fixtures are configured and half a dozen different LED strips I bought for modifying light fixtures or illuminating hard to reach places.

Good luck with deciding how you're going forward with this and here's hoping you're happy with your choice.

Darn the more I think about the RF switches, the more I may use some in the house.

A simple dab of silicone over a LED or two would be easily reversable.

[D_E_Bishop]

To the OP, how about letting us know how you resolved your problem, it may be something others could use.

[hornet28]

I'm not trolling you. Just pointing out that you speak two ways. Switch and no switch. IT HAS A SWITCH on the light

[mtofell1]

hornet28 wrote:

mtofell1 wrote:
And, yes, it has a switch at the light. I guess I assumed too much with people understanding what I meant in saying it has no switch. I meant no switch on the wall (just curious, has anyone EVER seen a light in an RV that stays on 100% of the time with no switch anywhere?)

Double talk. First sentence says a switch at light and at the end you say "has anyone EVER seen a light in an RV that stays on 100% of the time with no switch anywhere?" It can't be both

Wow! I can't tell if I'm being trolled here or just what. Let me explain this in the simplest terms i can. The light has no switch on the wall, cabinet, or ANYWHERE OTHER THAN ON THE LIGHT!

What was OBVIOUSLY being implied with my question is that there is no such thing as a light inside of an RV that doesn't have a switch somewhere. The fact that this wasn't obvious in my original post is laughable. The fact that this is still not obvious makes me feel sorry for people... or maybe myself because I"m just being screwed with and, for some reason, am still responding. :S

[vermilye]

If you want to dim the light and don't need to easily crank it back to full brightness, a non permanent solution is to put a piece of theatrical color filter inside the cover. Roscolux is a popular brand. It comes in 20" X24" sheets, can be easily cut to size, and stands up to heat (it is designed to go in front of a 1000 watt theatrical fixture).

A simple frost such as R116 will diffuse & soften the light, while one of the neutral density filters such as R98 will cut down the light by 75%. They have other ND filters that cut it less.

Here is their catalog. Check page 12 for the grey. The material is available at Amazon, or a local theatrical or good photo supply store. A theatrical supplier might give you a "swatch" book, a 2"X3" sample of each color. I believe Amazon charges for one.

[D_E_Bishop]

mtofell1 wrote:
Thanks for the replies everyone. Yes, it's LED and has about 10 diodes in a row. And, yes, it has a switch at the light. I guess I assumed too much with people understanding what I meant in saying it has no switch. I meant no switch on the wall (just curious, has anyone EVER seen a light in an RV that stays on 100% of the time with no switch anywhere?) I'm liking the window tint (or duct tape :)) idea the most at this point.

I understood from the beginning what your problem was and how you turned the light on and off, a pretty basic concept in RVs, now I'm trying to figure out how you can dim the light with the least amount of effort. To me using window film or duct tape is okay and very easy but not to my liking. I like to mess around and try stuff to modify things like your ceiling light so that they can be returned to their original state with as little effort as possible.

If you remove the trim ring and lens, you could simply cover as many of the LEDs as needed. I might try duct tape cut into small pieces or anything that would totally block the light. Black paint over the LED's lens would work but be hard to return to normal, window film would give a weird coloration to the light passing through. My inclination is to remove the fixture and remove a few of the LEDs as needed. A little more work to return to original but doable.

There are a lot of different shape, sizes and colors of wiremolds that are self adhesive and could be run from a surface mount on/off switch to the fixture. You've been alerted to the fact that the fixture may not be compatable with a dimmer/on/off switch. Maybe that is not an option but replacing the fixture may be an option. You don't have to get an exact fitting replacement fixture, there are a lot of fixtures to be found on line.

There are a lot of 12 volt remote controlled switches on the market. A fob very similar to a car key fob and a small receiver that most likely be hidden in the ceiling and connected to the fixture after you reduce the light output. The receivers are small and many no more than an inch in height. the ceilings in my rig are foam filled with foam more than an inch thick.

The point is think about what you can find on line. Ebay has millions of items you can search and get ideas from. I've currently got three different sets of RF remote setups. I've got pages and pages of how fixtures are configured and half a dozen different LED strips I bought for modifying light fixtures or illuminating hard to reach places.

Good luck with deciding how you're going forward with this and here's hoping you're happy with your choice.

Darn the more I think about the RF switches, the more I may use some in the house.

[hornet28]

mtofell1 wrote:
And, yes, it has a switch at the light. I guess I assumed too much with people understanding what I meant in saying it has no switch. I meant no switch on the wall (just curious, has anyone EVER seen a light in an RV that stays on 100% of the time with no switch anywhere?)

Double talk. First sentence says a switch at light and at the end you say "has anyone EVER seen a light in an RV that stays on 100% of the time with no switch anywhere?" It can't be both