Do I need a whole Roof Over?

[wealthwise]

Recently here in the Pacific Northwest we had a lot of rain, and I recently noticed water discoloration in the rear bedroom, it looks like rust if you see the photos you can see what I mean, I checked cabinets inside for further signs of discoloration but found none. First off what can I use if anything to restore/clean that and second and most important I looked at the rear roof, including photos here, and found the seals on the roof wearing down and there are gaps, do I just clean up and remove any old seals, replace with silicone and then cover with Kool Seal Elastometric, do I need to use a primer first?

Thank you for any help.

[MM49]

Your roof is just due for maintenance. Just search my name and follow the instructions I posted in another thread.
Seam Re-seal
MM49

[glennts]

And... don't forget to check the tightness of the bolts that hold down the AC. That unit sits on a rubber collar that get compressed over time and that will result in a seal that is not watertight. Considering it is the biggest hole in your roof, as a source of leaks it is often overlooked.

[NAUTIQUE]

oldbeek wrote:
I contacted "EDPM Coatings" on the net. 2 part EDPM coating will bond with the original edpm roof. When coated there are no more black streaks. A lot of prep is required. Removed all old caulk and scuffed all other products with 100 grit sand paper. Applied it to all vents and covers to stop future UV damage. Applied it over the moldings on the sides and caps. Applied past those moldings by 1/2 inch onto the caps and sides. Remember that 1/2 inch was scuffed with 100 grit sand paper. There were old damaged areas that were repaired with Eternabod tape. EDPM bonds to that also. No more seams no caulk, a total EDPM roof. Cost? $70.00 gallon and lots of labor.

A big X2 on EPDM's Liqiud Roof.
Redid mine last season & very happy with how it turned out!

[oldbeek]

I contacted "EDPM Coatings" on the net. 2 part EDPM coating will bond with the original edpm roof. When coated there are no more black streaks. A lot of prep is required. Removed all old caulk and scuffed all other products with 100 grit sand paper. Applied it to all vents and covers to stop future UV damage. Applied it over the moldings on the sides and caps. Applied past those moldings by 1/2 inch onto the caps and sides. Remember that 1/2 inch was scuffed with 100 grit sand paper. There were old damaged areas that were repaired with Eternabod tape. EDPM bonds to that also. No more seams no caulk, a total EDPM roof. Cost? $70.00 gallon and lots of labor.

[wealthwise]

enblethen wrote:
Kool Seal has a two product system.
Similar to the products from Dicor.
Dicor part 1
Dicor part 2

Thanks for letting know!

[wealthwise]

smkettner wrote:
Kool Seal White Elastomeric Roof Coating:

Recommended for metal, concrete, foam, brick, flat cement tile, barrel cement tile and aged aluminum coatings

Note does not include rubber roof. Or it is a different product?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Kool-Seal-White-Elastomeric-Roof-Coating/17210942

I would stick with Dicor. Possibly Eternabond along that long front seam. Old failed caulk must be removed as much as possible. Which means all of it.

I have read posts where people do Linex on the whole roof....

Yep that's the one, and it's going back, I must have used it on another rig that didn't have a rubber roof.

Thanks

[wealthwise]

Ok, understood and I wasn't sure about the latex, but now I am and luckily it never dried.

Thanks

[Gjac]

I used the cool seal that bud talked about in his post in 2006. A friend of mine bought a new motorhome with a fiberglass roof and gave me a gallon of the coating and a gallon of the primer. It looked good for about four years and then it started to peel off in small sections. I believe it is some kind of acrylic coating. These coatings are cheap enough to apply every six years or so to keep the roof looking white and reflecting the sun's heat. I would just clean your roof really well with bleach ,a scrub brush and a pressure washer to remove all of the old caulking and mold, then wipe the areas to be re-caulked with a solvent. When the roof is clean and re-caulk I then would apply this acrylic coating and use two coats , I only had enough for one coat.

[enblethen]

Kool Seal has a two product system.
Similar to the products from Dicor.
Dicor part 1
Dicor part 2

[time2roll]

Still need a perfect sealed roof before the Kool Seal is applied.

[westend]

wealthwise wrote:

westend wrote:
I'd suggest you remove the failed sealant and replace it with Dicor lap sealant or Eternabond tape. BTW, there is no good use for silicone based sealers on an RV.

You could try a fabric-friendly rust/stain remover on the interior. Don't know how successful that will be but probably worth a try if the ceiling only has a few spots.

So you are suggesting only Dicor or Eternabond and no Kool Seal?

Correct. Kool Seal or any other coating like it is not a total sealant. Even some that have used the alphatic undercoatings like Rhino or LineX have developed leaks. It sounds like a good idea-to have a monolithic coating that seals against all leaks but the usual homeowner solutions don't cut it. I have heard those that apply the specialized rubber roof coatings have success but when the products start approaching the cost of a total new EPDM skin, I think, what's the point? You could apply the Kool Seal product that is made for EPDM as it will lower temperature but that doesn't get all of those roof through holes sealed.

If you used a latex caulk on the roof, you now have another layer of sealant to remove.

[enblethen]

There is different Kool Seal products. This one is for rubber roofs.
Kool Seal for rubber roofs

[time2roll]

Kool Seal White Elastomeric Roof Coating:

Recommended for metal, concrete, foam, brick, flat cement tile, barrel cement tile and aged aluminum coatings

Note does not include rubber roof. Or it is a different product?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Kool-Seal-White-Elastomeric-Roof-Coating/17210942

I would stick with Dicor. Possibly Eternabond along that long front seam. Old failed caulk must be removed as much as possible. Which means all of it.

I have read posts where people do Linex on the whole roof....

[wealthwise]

rjxj wrote:
Throw the tape away. I would re do everything on the roof. If you dont remove the caulk, you at least have to make it good clean enough that the new Dicor self leveler will adhere to the old. Even if you try to remove it the surface will still be very irregular as it's just about impossible to get it all off.

If there are strips or flaps of sealant that are loose you want to remove that stuff. Clean it well and use a small scrub brush so all the cracks come clean than use a leaf blower or let it sit in the sun long enough to be sure all the cracks and crevices are dry before applying the Dicor. I would agree that now is the time to look at all the plastic up there and replace as needed. It wouldn't be surprising that the water damage is down the walls and possibly to the floor. It all depends on how long it has been like that. If you notice ridges or wavy sections under the membrane it's because the plywood is coming apart and buckling. If it's still all smooth that would be a very good sign that the damage is limited.

So you wouldn't recommend Kool Seal either?