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Dometic DM2652RBX not working on "new" trailer

r33pwrd
Explorer
Explorer
Hello everyone, not how I like to have my first post but here It goes. My wife and I bought a used 2012 Keystone outback 31BH last week (our first RV) and we are getting ready to use it for the first time. I decided to turn on the fridge tonight so it would be plenty cold for our trip tomorrow.

I have the gas off but I am plugged into 110v shore power, when I hit the on button the fridge appears to work but within 5 minutes the CHECK light comes on and I can hear the igniter trying to ignite the LP even though it is NOT on auto mode.

I have confirmed I have 110 at the plug the fridge is plugged into and I have also checked all the breaker and the two fuses on the back. Any ideas?

Thank you Brad
16 REPLIES 16

r33pwrd
Explorer
Explorer
beemerphile1 wrote:
r33pwrd wrote:
beemerphile1 wrote:

I bet the manual gives that kind of information. If you don't have a manual, Google the brand and model number and find it online.


actually it does not, I have the manual and it was the first place I looked. It does not mention anything about how you should configure it if you want to run on AC only....


To run on AC only, set to 'auto', turn off LPG. I have no idea why anyone would want to do that. Seems like a good way to have spoiled food.


I don't want to but when the trailer is sitting at my house I do not need the gas on and I am hooked up to very reliable power so I don't see why not... I mean I have lived in my house for 8 years and never once has my food spoiled ๐Ÿ˜‰

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
r33pwrd wrote:
beemerphile1 wrote:

I bet the manual gives that kind of information. If you don't have a manual, Google the brand and model number and find it online.


actually it does not, I have the manual and it was the first place I looked. It does not mention anything about how you should configure it if you want to run on AC only....


To run on AC only, set to 'auto', turn off LPG. I have no idea why anyone would want to do that. Seems like a good way to have spoiled food.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
HERE is a Dometic Manual that covers your model of fridge. Lots of good info


HERE is a Dometic Parts List for your model...future reference if needed

Your model of fridge has a non-adjustable temp control---pre-set at factory.
You CAN make minor adjustments (6*-8*F) to overall temp in food section by moving the 'thermistor' clipped to cooling fin in food section.
Moving it UP......cooler
Moving it DOWN....less cooler


Enjoy your 'new' RV!!
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
r33pwrd wrote:
I would love to understand why they have anything other than an auto option.
In addition to those reasons already mentioned, when you're boondocking and running off an inverter, you don't want your refer running on electric, even though it may be available.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

DiskDoctr
Explorer
Explorer
Auto uses electric when it is present. If you unplug, it switches over to gas, then when you arrive at campsite and plug in, it switches back over to gas.

You can force gas only, which is a good way to cool faster and test the propane option before towing a long distance and losing everything in the fridge because it wasn't cold.

In other words, gas to cool and tow, electric to camp (when avail), and gas only to force cooling.

I didn't design it, so can't say for certain, but it makes sense when I think of it this way.

Oh, get some bars for each shelf of your fride and two for freezer. The first time a jar of pickled does not fall out on the floor when you open the fridge the first time at your campsite, you'll know it was money well spent ๐Ÿ˜‰

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
AUTO is 120. If NO 120 available, the refer goes to LP. They have the LP selection so you can run on LP ONLY if you want to limit your 120 amperage consumption when you are on a 30 amp or lower shore cord power pole. The reason to have the AUTO configured this way is, IF you lose 120 power it will automatically run on LP, so you do not ruin food.
BTW, it only cools FASTER on LP for the first 15 minutes. Then both the 120 and LP will cool down at the same rate. Both LP and the 120 element have the same BTU ratings. Doug

r33pwrd
Explorer
Explorer
DiskDoctr wrote:
Auto is for gas or electric, with electric preferred when connected. The other position is gas.

FYI, gas will cool your fridge much faster and uses very little gas.

There are some *different* concepts of how things work in an rv that may take a while to figure out, but once you do, they are really quite simple and enjoyable.

Welcome aboard and have a great first trip! Ask any q's or share any first-time tips you find.


Thank you for the comments!

r33pwrd
Explorer
Explorer
beemerphile1 wrote:
r33pwrd wrote:
well I think I am dumb.. I assumed auto was for when you wanted to use gas or AC and out was for forcing it to use AC only. I depressed the switch and auto it light up and appears to be working now. Man it must be late ๐Ÿ™‚

Thank you


I bet the manual gives that kind of information. If you don't have a manual, Google the brand and model number and find it online.


actually it does not... I have the manual and it was the first place I looked. It does not mention anything about how you should configure it if you want to run on AC only. The part that confused me was why would you have the option to be auto or gas only? My assumption was you would have an auto and a AC only option (and nowhere did I read anything that was different)

I would love to understand why they have anything other than an auto option. Really only needs an on /off witch unless I am missing an a reason you would not?

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
r33pwrd wrote:
well I think I am dumb.. I assumed auto was for when you wanted to use gas or AC and out was for forcing it to use AC only. I depressed the switch and auto it light up and appears to be working now. Man it must be late ๐Ÿ™‚

Thank you


I bet the manual gives that kind of information. If you don't have a manual, Google the brand and model number and find it online.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

DiskDoctr
Explorer
Explorer
Auto is for gas or electric, with electric preferred when connected. The other position is gas.

FYI, gas will cool your fridge much faster and uses very little gas.

There are some *different* concepts of how things work in an rv that may take a while to figure out, but once you do, they are really quite simple and enjoyable.

Welcome aboard and have a great first trip! Ask any q's or share any first-time tips you find.

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
go get another beer and enjoy your new to you trailer hehe...

Roy ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
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newman_fulltime
Explorer II
Explorer II
i knew it was one of the ways

r33pwrd
Explorer
Explorer
well I think I am dumb.. I assumed auto was for when you wanted to use gas or AC and out was for forcing it to use AC only. I depressed the switch and auto it light up and appears to be working now. Man it must be late ๐Ÿ™‚

Thank you

Fleetwood99
Explorer
Explorer
Welcome to RVnet.

Turn ON the gas to check if it works. You may have to restart the Frig a few times to purge off air in gas line. Lighting a Stove burner can help purging of air also. If, Frig will run on Gas then, you can troubleshoot the AC part.

Someone here will chime in to help also soon. I am sure.
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