โDec-28-2020 12:58 PM
โFeb-25-2021 06:06 PM
โFeb-25-2021 03:51 AM
โFeb-22-2021 02:19 PM
โFeb-22-2021 03:51 AM
dougrainer wrote:
Battery is not an issue as long as the Power Converter is operating and producing 12.9 volts and higher. A DEFECTIVE battery should be replaced as come Converters do not operate well with a BAD LOAD(Load is the battery). A defective battery should NOT be installed in a Trailer while towing. The Emergency Brake Away will not work with a bad battery. Doug
โFeb-21-2021 11:37 AM
โFeb-21-2021 11:30 AM
JBarca wrote:
Hi again,
Snip...imq707s wrote:
The fridge is a Dometic 2652 that runs on 120v or GAS. It won't run on 12v power.
3. The fans making noise, is this the power converter fans or an air circulation fan in the back of the fridge? Air circulation fan in the back of the fridge. Normally in the past I've always been able to hear the fan cycle on and off....but this time, it was constantly on..I've never heard it do that before.
Good feed back, this helps.
A clarification first just in case you did not realize, the fridge must have both 12 VDC and 120 VAC to operate on the electric element. The 12 volts DC runs all the controls including the gas valve, ignition etc. The "only" thing the 120 VAC does, is provide high power to run the electric heater element as the power draw of that heater is too much to practically run on 12 VDC. You can run on gas mode with only 12 VDC to boondock/camp off grid.
You are correct, you do not have a 12 VDC "option" to create electric heat. Many pop up campers do have that feature but it is more to maintain a fridge at temp then trying to cool it down.
With that said, now that the fans are on the back of the fridge, I didn't ask, didn't know, I'm assuming this fridge is in a slide room? Fridges in a slide must have the fans due to the air venting in the side of the slide. Non slide campers have a roof vent and natural convection will work. The fans are not part of the 120 VAC running problem. I will speculate you where getting some level of cooling while on 120 electric, as the Dometic fans are on a thermal disk switch that turns the fans on and off by the cooling coil temperature. When the cooling coil gets hot enough, the fans turn on and when it cools down, they shut off.
It may be the electric element was going on and off intermittently overnight. You may have received just enough cooling (electric heat) to trip the fans on all the time as the fan switch was warm enough to start the fans, but the fridge did not cool down inside enough as it was cycling the heating element on and off over night. The fans will cycle on/off under normal operation, on gas or electric as the fridge adds cooling, the food compartment in time gets cold enough to satisfy the setpoint, then shuts down the heating element. As the cooling coil cools down far enough, the fans shut off.
As Doug mentioned, there is no fault light for the electric element not working. The fault light only has to do with a flame failure when running on LP gas.
What Doug described will test out the electric element and the PC control board as a big picture test.
The actual heater element is a simple 2 wire device. Think of it as a 325 watt 120 volt light bulb. Give it power, and the thing makes heats. Take the power away, and it stops heating. Something is shutting down the electric element, possibly intermittently.
Hope this helps
John
โJan-08-2021 11:26 AM
โJan-07-2021 03:30 AM
imq707s wrote:
The fridge is a Dometic 2652 that runs on 120v or GAS. It won't run on 12v power.
3. The fans making noise, is this the power converter fans or an air circulation fan in the back of the fridge? Air circulation fan in the back of the fridge. Normally in the past I've always been able to hear the fan cycle on and off....but this time, it was constantly on..I've never heard it do that before.
โJan-06-2021 12:22 PM
โJan-06-2021 09:39 AM
โJan-06-2021 07:20 AM
imq707s wrote:
We took our 2011 Zinger camper
It was set to "AUTO", but I switched it over to "GAS" in order to see if that would get it cooling again. A few hours later.....things were starting to cool off again.
One strange thing I did notice is that the fan that I can usually hear cycling in and off every few minutes when things were working normally.....was constantly on in the morning when the fridge wasn't cooling.
imq707s wrote:
I will do some more troublshooting tomorrow.
I don't think that the GFI outlet tripped......I still had power to the control panel, and the door light inside the fridge worked when I opened the door. As soon as I hit the "GAS" button, it started cooling again.
I'm going to plug it into 120v power tomorrow and see if the fridge starts to cool again. I have noticed lately that the yellow light that's supposed to light up with you hit the AUTO button is kind of iffy.....depending on how you wiggle the button around, it will sometimes not turn the light on...even though the fridge is working.
Could the control panel just be flaking out?
imq707s wrote:
****UPDATE****
Well, I did a little more troubleshooting. After the camper set for a few days, I went ahead and hooked it back up to 120v power and turned the fridge to AUTO (gas was off)..it was around 5pm. Later that night I checked the fridge, and it was cool and the freezer felt really cold...everything was working like it was supposed to.
I checked it in the morning...and it was NOT cold. The AUTO light was still lit, and everything had power. I turned the fridge off, opened the fridge, and let everything air out.
A few days later, I did the same thing. This time, after being on all night long it was still cold in the morning. The temps at night were in the 30's....nothing below that.
So at this point I know it's not a fuse and it's not the GFI outlet.
It's definitely an intermittent issue that happens when it's running on 120v power, but doesn't happen with it's running on propane.
Could this be a control board issue? What kind of troubleshooting can I do not in order to narrow things down and find the issue?
โJan-05-2021 04:25 PM
โJan-03-2021 02:50 PM
โDec-29-2020 05:49 AM