Dometic fridge won't start on GAS mode

[jornvango]

We have a 3-way fridge (Dometic RM2454). Yesterday evening, while running in AUTO mode and on GAS, the GAS light switched to "CHECK". This usually means the propane is out so I replaced the propane tank. I tested by running the cooktop for 20 seconds and it worked fine. When I looked at the fridge however, it was still in "CHECK" mode. I could hear the fridge (electrode) "clicking" for about 20-30 seconds but the fridge didn't switch back to GAS mode.

So, I went outside the RV and opened the fridge's back panel door. I opened the burner housing and observed what it was doing. I saw the electrode create a spark with every clicking sound and immediately after the first click or two, the blue flame ignited. The blue flame kept burning until, after 20-30 seconds of the electrode repeatedly clicking, the clicking stopped and the propane supply was shut off so the flame went out.

I tested again by turning off the manual gas shutoff valve in the burner housing. Now the electrode just clicked (creating sparks) for 20-30 seconds without the flame coming on. However, as soon as I switched the manual gas shutoff valve on again, the electrode sparks lit the blue flame. Same end result however: after 20-30 secs of clicking, the electrode stopped clicking and the flame instantly died (I assume the fridge stopped the gas supply to the flame).

Does someone know how to fix this? It acts as if it doesn't detect the flame ...

Thanks!

P.S. Other than in GAS mode, the fridge works fine in DC mode (which I only use while driving since we usually boondock and I don't want to drain the battery).

[jornvango]

I think it's fixed. The fridge has been running since last night without an issue.

I followed the suggestion above to blow out the burner with compressed air. Now the electrode only clicks a few times, the blue flame comes on and the electrode immediately stops clicking.

Thanks!!!

[Hamnet]

I had the same problem and my neighbor just had the issue. It was a bad regulator at the propane tanks. Not able to supply the proper gas pressure to light the refrigerator.

[Old-Biscuit]

As Doug stated....thermocouple needs to sense flame.
Check that it is directly in flame path and that it isn't sooted/dirty

How many times have you tried to get fridge to relight?

When it ran out of propane....line may still be needing to be primed (even though stove top works).....very little demand with fridge flame, line length and only 0.4# (11"WC) of gas pressure. Sometimes it just takes a bit longer than one expects to get proper flow after running out.


Just in case........
HERE is parts breakdown/list.
Item 43 is thermocouple and plugs into control module at J4 (Grey wire) & J9 (Black wire)

[dougrainer]

The spark electrode sparks and YOUR model should also have the separate Thermocoupler which senses the flame. Make sure it is connected to the main control board and if so, the odds are it is defective. The thermocouple should produce 25 to 35 millivolts when the flame is on. If not, then it is defective. If the millivolts are correct the main control board is bad. Doug

[wolfe10]

Do the "burner area tune-up" as outlined in your refrigerator owners manual.

Could be dirt in the burner tube causing insufficient heat to activate the thermocouple, could be the thermocouple is coated with carbon or mis-aligned, etc.

Not special tools or any parts are needed.

If that doesn't fix it, let us know and we can help you start diagnosing where you will actually spend $$.