cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Ebay controller failure

Snowman9000
Explorer
Explorer
I am not looking to start anything. This is just a data point; a mini-review for anyone who's trying to decide on a controller. And it's just one person's experience.

I bought this controller on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261279374317?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


It failed after 1 hour using a 100w panel.
The failure happened after the seller's 14 day warranty, so I don't expect anything to be done about it. I've contacted the seller for tech advice, to see if there is anything I can check or do. His English is okay, but his answers are shaky. OK, whatever, that is part of the deal and I knew that when I bought it. Whenever I buy something cheap from China. (With one exception: the LED bulb guy is great!)

BTW, it said to connect the panels last. I may have violated this, although I really don't recall. It was running though, and failed while still connected.

I paid $14 on best offer.
Currently RV-less but not done yet.
27 REPLIES 27

bob_nestor
Explorer III
Explorer III
That controller looks like it's the same kind used on my cheap 120W portable. It's permanently wired into the back of the unit, so in my case the last thing hooked up is always the battery. I've had it set up in the sun without a battery connected without a problem. On a recent camping trip I had it set up and it ran fine for a week keeping my batteries up. The only warning I saw was to make sure the battery leads never touch.

Snowman9000
Explorer
Explorer
RoyB wrote:
I guess what I am hearing here is the batteries must connected all the time for the solar controllers. I was wanting to switch batteries in and out with my setup once I get going. My switching setup lets me select one or all or none. Hadn't done my homework on this approach yet.

Having to always have the batteries connected to the solar controller is sure going to mess my plans haha... I guess I can hook them all up and isolate with diodes maybe so I can switch the batteries in and out of my other battery charger that will be run by the generator set...

It will all make sense when I get closer to the project I hope haha...

In my case I will be charging all of my batteries first using the generator method to get past the high current draw of 15-20AMPS DC for each battery when in 14.4VDC charge mode then will want to switch to SOLAR POWER for the remaining low current charge during the remaining solar high sun period to finsh my 90% and higher charge state.

Roy Ken


I have a Morningstar Sunsaver PWM controller that suggests connecting to the panels last, but it also says nothing will be harmed if you don't. It's much more robust looking than the ebay equivalent. So it might not be an issue depending on which controller you select. You can review the MS manuals on their website.
Currently RV-less but not done yet.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
RoyB wrote:
I guess what I am hearing here is the batteries must connected all the time for the solar controllers. I was wanting to switch batteries in and out with my setup once I get going. My switching setup lets me select one or all or none. Hadn't done my homework on this approach yet...........
Roy Ken


No problem, you just need a switch on the array side of the controller on one of the two wires. Switch that off, move to a different battery, let the controller power up, then switch the array back on.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Zero merchandise I troubleshoot here in the mercadito ever gets plugged-in before it gets palletized in China. They make it, box it, and ship it. Chinese stuff is like a casino craps game - you pays your money and pray you don't hear "Seven Out Line Away".

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Snowman9000 wrote:
BoonHauler wrote:
You get what you pay for.


Yeah, if it was mission critical I wouldn't have considered it. OTOH I've gotten some good value for the money on Chinese electronics too.


There are many OTHER REPUTABLE places to buy from than Ebay, I shake my head in disbelief that folks have not learned this lesson...

Even though I still have an account with Ebay, I AVOID buying anything from them unless it is an absolute last resort while looking for an old OBSCURE no longer produced item.

For new stuff you can easily find non ebay DIRECT purchasing, I would highly recommend skipping (and wasting your money) with ebay purchases of new stuff like solar controllers...

Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me..

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
I guess what I am hearing here is the batteries must connected all the time for the solar controllers. I was wanting to switch batteries in and out with my setup once I get going. My switching setup lets me select one or all or none. Hadn't done my homework on this approach yet.

Having to always have the batteries connected to the solar controller is sure going to mess my plans haha... I guess I can hook them all up and isolate with diodes maybe so I can switch the batteries in and out of my other battery charger that will be run by the generator set...

It will all make sense when I get closer to the project I hope haha...

In my case I will be charging all of my batteries first using the generator method to get past the high current draw of 15-20AMPS DC for each battery when in 14.4VDC charge mode then will want to switch to SOLAR POWER for the remaining low current charge during the remaining solar high sun period to finsh my 90% and higher charge state.

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

JiminDenver
Explorer II
Explorer II
As a teat I ran a load off of my controller without the battery connected, it didn't die. That said there was a person here that did hook up the panel first and their controller didn't do so well.
2011 GulfStream Amerilite 25BH
2003 Ford Expedition with 435w tilting portable/ TS-MPPT-45
750w solar , TS-MPPT-60 on the trailer
675 Ah bank, Trip-lite 1250fc inverter
Sportsman 2200w inverter generator

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Connecting to battery first lets it pick which battery voltage to use before the panel is attached. You could have done it somehow or it might have had a bad component, who knows?

I have fried two cheapo controllers (so far) by accidentally letting wires touch something or other. No idea exactly what touched what in each case. For me it is just the price of being a spaz! ๐Ÿ˜ž
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
My $12 CMP-12 15 amp is doing great. But its the same one that is used on 75% or the $400 portables, so I expected it to be a good basic one, only at a cheap price. They are selling at solar dealers for $59-79.

No, you don't always get what you pay for, forget that idea !

Oh yeah, that makes 1 failure in how many thousand cheap ones ?
A fantastic failure rate if ya ask me !
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

Snowman9000
Explorer
Explorer
BoonHauler wrote:
You get what you pay for.


Yeah, if it was mission critical I wouldn't have considered it. OTOH I've gotten some good value for the money on Chinese electronics too.
Currently RV-less but not done yet.

NinerBikes
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for testing that unit out for us.

I don't recall anyone else commenting here on testing that version. The unit that they badmouth on their Ebay ad, has worked fine for me with my 120 Watt panel and up to 7 amps input into the battery. Of course, I don't mess with or use the light timer function, I only use it to adjust and control the voltage that the battery receives during bulk and absorbption charging phases.

You always hook the battery up first, so that the controller knowns and learns to charge for 12V.

BoonHauler
Explorer
Explorer
You get what you pay for.
05 RAM 3500 CTD 4x4 Q/C Laramie DRW/NV5600/3.73, B&W Gooseneck, MaxBrake, PacBrake PRXB, Brite Box Fogster, BD steering Box Brace
2014 BoonHauler 3614

Snowman9000
Explorer
Explorer
duplicate
Currently RV-less but not done yet.