Electrical assistance

[matmatlin]

Looking for any info on the Weekend Refuge.  Mine was built in 1996.  Currently working on faulty electrical system and unable to find any diagrams or manual for assistance.  

Any help appreciated, thank you!

[nickthehunter · Accepted solution]

you have two electrical systems, a 12 volt system and a 120 volt system.   Microwave, electric receptacles, air cond, etc (there are others depending on particular appliances in your unit) are 120 volt; they will only work when your trailer is plugged into a 120 volt power source - period.

Lights, water pump (generally), refrigerator (depending), furnace (usually), exhaust fans, etc are 12 volt. They will operate when a properly charged battery is installed, when connected to a vehicle with a 7 pin connector (a 4 pin won’t provide any electrical for the 12V systems), or when the RV is plugged in (as noted above) with a properly operating converter.

My guess is you are not plugged into a proper 120 volt source and therefore the 120 volt system is not operating (the converter is a 120V unit). Any 12V appurtenances that are operating (you mentioned lights) are operating off the battery in the RV (until it goes dead).

Running lights, turn signals, marker lights, etc are connected to the vehicle 12V system via the 4 pin connector. Nothing else is connected to the vehicle 12V system via a 4 pin connector. A 7 pin connector will provide 12V to the RV (when properly installed.

I would recommend doing some research and getting a good understanding of the particulars of the 12V and 120V system and how they intertwine. For example, the fuses are for the 12V side; the 120V will be protected by a number of circuit breakers.

See here Clicky 

[lostalot]

You have been given some excellent advice.  Nickthehunter did a good job of explaining general rv electrical systems.  If the converter is humming, it only means it's being supplied with 120vac and may not be producing and 12vdc.  I have had problems with units that have been stored for a while and had mice eat some of the wiring..  With the age of the unit, I suggest you check your grounds (usually chassis) connections.  Bad grounds in the 12vdc system can cause some strange symptoms due to rust and corrosion.  Make sure your 12vdc is all working first as many of your 120vac devices are controlled by 12vdc.

[opnspaces · Accepted solution]

Nickthehunter touched on most of what's possibly wrong. My addition is that most of what you say is not now working is on the 12 volt side of things. You said you removed the old battery but you did not say you replaced it. I would suggest replacing the battery even if temporarily to see if things come to life. But be sure that you know and follow the polarity of the wiring so you don't start blowing fuses and such.

As far as the refrigerator it depends on what you replaced it with. Is it a household 120volv, a 12volt compressor fridge, or a Propane/Electric fridge?

As far as the taillights it's possible you got the wiring reversed. LED's are  one way  meaning if you hook the wires up backwards they will not work. I would pull the lights and verify that the positive from the trailer is going to the positive on the lights and that the ground is hooked to the ground wire on the taillight.

[nickthehunter]

There are no wiring diagrams for travel trailers. Manuals consist of the “RV Owner’s manual” (which is very generic and basically useless), and the manuals that come with the appliances (stove, refrigerator, furnace, etc.)

If you can elaborate on your specific problem there are a lot of experienced people here that can probably help you.

[matmatlin]

Hi!  Thank you for your feedback. When i brought the trailer home, after getting it inspected by a third party, the first thing I did was retrace what the inspection entailed and replaced bulbs with leds. Because the trailer had not been used for not sure how long, the battery was shot (2011) and there was no propane.  I plugged it into my home electric service and the pump (no water),  lights worked. I kept refrig plugged in overnight and it was cool in morning but not great.  According to inspection report water pump was gone, although when i had system plugged in it was running.  The converter was humming away as well.

Besides replacing interior bulbs, I unhooked the battery and disconnected the propane tank.  I removed and replaced the 1996 water pump with a 2023/4 equivalent.  I took out refrigerator and replaced it with equivalent and removed the tail lights and replaced them with led lights.  Before replacing the tail lights i tested them to confirm they worked and they did. 

All that replaced I turned on the refrig and it did not work, neither did the water pump or the tail lights.  Checked the fuses and they are fine, but they are original from when I purchased the trailer.

The only electrical items working are the inside now are lights, the electrical out light by table.  Nothing else is going on.

By the way, I am excluding furnace because I wanted to get everything up and running and feel I do not need the heating system to travel.  I may or may not ever get to it!! 

The trailer is on a 4 pin connection to car.  My car is a 2007 Dodge Durango suv.  I got trailer weighed and it came in at 2200 lbs.  

Let me know if I should clarify anything or  provide more details. Any info you can or anyone can provide is greatly appreciated. 

[nickthehunter · Accepted solution]

you have two electrical systems, a 12 volt system and a 120 volt system.   Microwave, electric receptacles, air cond, etc (there are others depending on particular appliances in your unit) are 120 volt; they will only work when your trailer is plugged into a 120 volt power source - period.

Lights, water pump (generally), refrigerator (depending), furnace (usually), exhaust fans, etc are 12 volt. They will operate when a properly charged battery is installed, when connected to a vehicle with a 7 pin connector (a 4 pin won’t provide any electrical for the 12V systems), or when the RV is plugged in (as noted above) with a properly operating converter.

My guess is you are not plugged into a proper 120 volt source and therefore the 120 volt system is not operating (the converter is a 120V unit). Any 12V appurtenances that are operating (you mentioned lights) are operating off the battery in the RV (until it goes dead).

Running lights, turn signals, marker lights, etc are connected to the vehicle 12V system via the 4 pin connector. Nothing else is connected to the vehicle 12V system via a 4 pin connector. A 7 pin connector will provide 12V to the RV (when properly installed.

I would recommend doing some research and getting a good understanding of the particulars of the 12V and 120V system and how they intertwine. For example, the fuses are for the 12V side; the 120V will be protected by a number of circuit breakers.

See here Clicky