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Electrical Issue

PepperDad51
Explorer
Explorer
When we plugged our Jayco FW in yesterday, after sitting for several months, we could smell burned wiring and now lights and refrigerator don't work, but outlets and microwave do. It looks like the ground wire is scorched. We are fairly good at repairs, but looking for info as to where to start, what to check first??? TIA
24 REPLIES 24

larry_cad
Explorer II
Explorer II
Is it possible the red wire you mentioned has become loose in the converter connection? If the red wire is loose and burnt as a result of the loose connection, simply clean the connection, and tighten the connector. This could be a simple problem and it is certainly worth a try before you spend a lot of money on a new converter.

A bad converter would not typically burn the output (red) wire.
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enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Some older converters had two outputs, One clean power and one dirty,
I would suggest replacing the converter and power distribution panel with a new more efficient one.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Michelle_S
Explorer III
Explorer III
Just throwing this out: I thought I read that you had disconnected the batteries, if so are you 100% sure you connected them back up correctly??
In the RV world Black is generally the Plus 12 Line, if you connected things backwards it might explain the burnt smell.
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BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Here is one option at a good price:

https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/products/powermax-pm3-55lk-55-amp-12-volt-power-supply-with-led...

They make a 45 but seem to be out of stock here. Amazon? you can use a 55 in place of your 45 ok.

Instructions for using it here:

https://powermaxconverters.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/PM3-Owners-Manual.pdf
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

PepperDad51
Explorer
Explorer
I am finding out that the Todd converter wasn't very good and the company is no longer in business

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
The wires that go into and out of a converter (or power source, if that is what they call yours--it's the same thing) can be split into two categories: those that are related to the 120V power input side, and those that are related to the 12V power output. I think you're describing the positive 12V output wire as the bad one, but it's not perfectly clear. As BFL mentions, pictures would be helpful for understanding what you're seeing.

The 12V wires will have noticeably larger conductors than the 120V ones, as they carry nearly 10 times the current. The 120V wires may just be a standard power cable with a plug that plugs into an outlet, like any old appliance cord. Generally, there would be a minimum of three wires for the DC side for a standalone converter--one that isn't physically integrated into the power center chassis: the positive output, the negative output, and a chassis ground tie connection that's separate from the negative output even though both connect to the chassis ground at some point. Other wires would be for additional functions: some old converters had separate battery charging and 12V house power outputs, for instance, and some have controls or displays to show/select between charging modes, and some may have battery temperature sensors or remote battery voltage sense wires, and probably a bunch of other possibilities.

At any rate, wires get hot due to power being dissipated when current flows through them. When the heating is just right at a connection of some sort, it means that the connection wasn't solid enough and had excessive resistance, causing a lot of power to be dissipated right there and a lot of localized heating. If the whole wire is uniformly toasty, it means the wire was undersized or the current flowing through it was excessive (and the latter should be prevented by fuses or circuit breakers interrupting the current). For loose connections, the solution is to clean out any damaged wire and make a new, solid connection--of course doing so when all power is disconnected, including (for 12V circuits) the battery. Loose connections in RVs are not uncommon because the vibration and bouncing around of driving tends to cause screw terminals, etc. to work loose over time.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
That must be an oldie and maybe not a goodie! Todd long gone AFAIK.

https://www.google.ca/search?source=univ&tbm=isch&q=Todd+Engineering+45+amp+Power+Source+45B&sa=X&ve...

The four wires might be two pair of one with green/white and the other red/white (white is negative in both cases, if so) The Todd takes a red and white in its output terminals.

Basic test is to take the red and white wires out of the Todd and plug in the 120v cord. Now check the red/white terminals for 12v with your meter.

Meanwhile, see if you have any lick using your battery for 12v. Should be battery wires to a 12v fuse panel to run the lights, pump, fans etc.

Lots of choices for replacing the Todd deck mount
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

PepperDad51
Explorer
Explorer
The paperwork for the Power Source says "45 amp". Model # looks like 45B4919950168, Todd Engineering.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
PepperDad51 wrote:
Please bear with me, forgive my ignorance, it's my first time dealing with an electrical issue on the camper. Looking at the Power Source it shows a Green {ground wire} on the left, 2 white wires {Neutral/Negative} in the center, then a red wire {positive} on the right. The red wire is damaged where it comes out of the power source. This is probably as clear as mud, but I really do appreciate all of your help.


What do you mean by "power source"? ISTR Jayco sometimes have green as a DC positive wire. The melted red might have a loose connection that made it over-heat.

Don't give up on the converter yet. You do need a digital voltmeter that will do 12v that you can use when answering our next questions.

If you can take photos, here is how to put them up on here:

http://photoposting.is-great.net/?i=2
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Don't worry about being newbie!
We all have been there!
Try to find make and model of converter and power supply.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

PepperDad51
Explorer
Explorer
Please bear with me, forgive my ignorance, it's my first time dealing with an electrical issue on the camper. Looking at the Power Source it shows a Green {ground wire} on the left, 2 white wires {Neutral/Negative} in the center, then a red wire {positive} on the right. The red wire is damaged where it comes out of the power source. This is probably as clear as mud, but I really do appreciate all of your help.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Virtually no repair of a converter.
Best to replace it and depending on age the power center, 120 AC and 12 volt DC,
Make and model of the converter?
Best converter is good place for the best information and replacement.
Best Converter

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

PepperDad51
Explorer
Explorer
Did another inspection. We were totally wrong. It looks the Red/Positive wire is the one that's melted. So, I'm guessing the converter will have to be replaced? Any way to check and make sure before we haul it in for repair?

PepperDad51
Explorer
Explorer
After checking further, it looks like it may possibly be the neutral wire. Will change it out and see what happens. Thanks everyone for your help!!