Fridge Not Cold On Gas

[dano73]

Hi all, I'm back. My dometic 3804 doesn't cool on gas but works fine on ac. I was told the only thing it could be was the chimney. Well, I removed the fridge and the baffle is indeed in there, and the chimney is clear, with very light surface rust. The baffle has light rust also, which was expected, but solid, idk if it should even be replaced, anyone know a good source? So where else should I check, I thought it was the board, but was told no.. Any other ideas? Btw pilot is fine and stays lit, Wic pressure is good, burner and orifice clean.

[dano73]

I got it!, After pulling the fridge and cleaning the chimney and baffle I'm back in business. I want to thank most of you for all your suggestions. The chimney was not dirty, and no soot at all, just some light scale rust. The baffle was complete and intact with some very light scale rust. Cleaned it all up and put it back together, and now it's working great.

As an ugly side note, there is a poster on here who claims to know it alli. I was told by him, in a previous thread, YOUR CHIMNEY DOES NOT NEED TO BE CLEANED.. The same guy that accused me of lying about my water column pressure, cause apparently we're all to stupid to perform these simple tasks. We're all wrong sometimes.

I was once...back in '92!!

[rhagfo]

So the big difference between running on electric and gas is circulation of the heat from the gas flame.
On electric the heating rod heats the tube through contact.
With gas the heat from the flame needs to rise through the chimney, you have stated it is clear, what about the roof vent is it clear?

[darsben1]

MY idea is still look at the troubleshooting guide in the service manual

[dano73]

It was always cold on ac. I've owned it for about 6 yrs, and it was always hit or miss on lap, over ''this past summer it doesn't work at all on lp, the flame stays lit , but melts down within hours of being unplugged. I have it out now, the chimney is fine, the baffle is good , no blockages or restrictions, have it all apart, cleaned chimney, burner orifice again, burner is clean, idk.

[MrWizard]

Did it always do this
Is this a new situation, or just a new to you RV
How is it on gas when not driving
Maybe it's an air circulation problem, not removing the heat while driving

[dano73]

Sorry red, my previous thread said it showed about 12 inches. I rarely use the stove so pressure drop isn't an issue in my mind., although the stove and water heater work fine, with no problems. My flame looks nice and strong, and never goes out during travel, but it starts to melt down within hours of being unplugged.

[red31]

Is the pressure at the burner a secret? how much drop when ya fire the stove burners?
Proper pressure and impeccably clean orifice are needed to provide proper heat.

[dano73]

No !red,didn't check the btu's at the burner. How would I do that? I will go thru the whole thing again, now that I know the chimney is right.

Btw, i checked the lip pressure at the burner, with a borrowed manometer. This isn't rocket science folks, they're not expensive, just a tool I wouldn't buy, because I rarely need one.

[red31]

dano73 , have you determined the BTU your burner is providing? 😉

[MrWizard]

Lp pressure, flame size, clogged office
Rusted gas tube for the burner, dirty burner

Doug is right

[2chiefsRus]

Okay, I'll ask, how DID you determine your LP Pressure?

[dano73]

I said.. anybody beside doug. No offense.

[dougrainer]

dano73 wrote:
Anybody beside doug have any ideas??

You want help. HOW DID YOU DETERMINE YOUR LP PRESSURE? Why can't posters answer simple questions? I am one of the BEST resource's you can get on this forum. ANSWER my question. Doug

[midnightsadie]

X2 lets see it works on electric that says its getting hot enough ,won,t work on gas even with flame but not getting hot enough, burner is clogged not letting enough gas threw .or wrong pressure. still sounds like clogged orfice,s.