Head Scratcher - 40A+ draw from the fridge?

[Leeski_Clan]

Hi Forums,

I installed a GoPower IC 3000 which is an inverter, charger and transfer switch combo unit.

In testing, I first ran the TV which pulled ~1.5 A. Then I ran the Norcold 2118 refrigerator and according to the GoPower monitor, the Amp draw went from 1.5A to 48A! I let it run for about 5 minutes and it was defiantly killing the battery bank. The fuse panel is on the same circuit as the fire place but the fireplace was off.

Any idea what would eat that many Amps?

Larry

[Leeski_Clan]

SoundGuy wrote:

Leeski Clan wrote:
I installed a GoPower IC 3000 which is an inverter, charger and transfer switch combo unit.

In testing, I first ran the TV which pulled ~1.5 A. Then I ran the Norcold 2118 refrigerator and according to the GoPower monitor, the Amp draw went from 1.5A to 48A!

Your new Norcold 2118 is a 2-way gas absorption fridge designed to automatically switch over to run on gas when shore power isn't available so why would you attempt to run it on an inverter? :h Specs, including current draw, are included in the specs I linked to.

I was just testing the Inverter / Solar system. I'd normally run the fridge off of propane but switched over to inverter to test the inverter. I had no idea that it would draw that much amps. I thought there may be a problem as the Norcold site says it draws 6 amps.

I guess this is the normal draw for that fridge.... dunno.. see my comment above regarding Charlie Brown's teacher.

Thanks for all of your advice.
Happy Camping!

[Leeski_Clan]

time2roll wrote:
I call normal for an absorption fridge. Set the fridge to propane only while using the inverter. Or is this a compressor fridge?
Actually mine draws about 30 amps so I assume yours has more features. You want to see some real amps... put the water heater on 😉

I would recommend 600+ amp hours battery for a 3000 watt inverted.

This is a propane electrical fridge. Norcold 2118.
I have 4 x 6v @ 210 Ah each so I have 800+ Ah.

[BFL13]

time2roll wrote:
I call normal for an absorption fridge. Set the fridge to propane only while using the inverter. Or is this a compressor fridge?
Actually mine draws about 30 amps so I assume yours has more features. You want to see some real amps... put the water heater on 😉

I would recommend 600+ amp hours battery for a 3000 watt inverter.

I have a 3000w inverter, but only use it for under 1500w at a time. So I have it set-up to do the 1500w and that's about all. If it ever got loaded to run more, the low voltage shut off would take care of that. (It was on sale for less money than the 2000w version so I got the 3000 instead of the 2000)

I can run the microwave from it with two AGMs (200AH bank) or four 6s (450AH) down to 50% SOC no problem. Two 6s can do it down to about 75% SOC before low voltage.

[SoundGuy]

Leeski Clan wrote:
I installed a GoPower IC 3000 which is an inverter, charger and transfer switch combo unit.

In testing, I first ran the TV which pulled ~1.5 A. Then I ran the Norcold 2118 refrigerator and according to the GoPower monitor, the Amp draw went from 1.5A to 48A!

Your new Norcold 2118 is a 2-way gas absorption fridge designed to automatically switch over to run on gas when shore power isn't available so why would you attempt to run it on an inverter? :h Specs, including current draw, are included in the specs I linked to.

[westernrvparkow]

The Norcold website shows the power draw of the 2118 on AC power is 5 amps, which is 600 watts. At 12 volts DC you would be looking at a draw of 50 amps. Therefore, it is apparently operating normally. The OP apparently has it manually set to operate on AC only. With no available AC input (shore power or generator) they should be operating it on propane, which would drop the power draw down to 3 amps DC.

[enblethen]

Are you measuring the amps on the 12 volt or 120 volt AC side?
If on 12 volt side it could be correct.
I would be running the unit on LP when not connected to shore power.

[time2roll]

I call normal for an absorption fridge. Set the fridge to propane only while using the inverter. Or is this a compressor fridge?
Actually mine draws about 30 amps so I assume yours has more features. You want to see some real amps... put the water heater on 😉

I would recommend 600+ amp hours battery for a 3000 watt inverter.

[ScottG]

When the dealer says he checked the fridge operation during PDI, he means they turned it on and felt for the cooling unit.
He didn't check draw.

[Leeski_Clan]

turbojimmy wrote:

Harvard wrote:
40 Amps at 12 VDC = 480 watts OR 4 Amps at 120VAC = 480 watts....could be true...

Yeah that's about right for a 120V heating element. Mine says it's 300 watts but I never checked the actual draw on it.

Oh, so it is normal to draw that much? The Norcold site says 6Amps.
Norcold 2118

Let it be known, electrical has been my Achilles heal ever since I blew up my lamp in Grade 7 shop class. I don't understand it well. Amps vs Watts vs Volts sounds like Charlie Browns teacher to me. 🙂

[turbojimmy]

Harvard wrote:
40 Amps at 12 VDC = 480 watts OR 4 Amps at 120VAC = 480 watts....could be true...

Yeah that's about right for a 120V heating element. Mine says it's 300 watts but I never checked the actual draw on it.

[Harvard]

40 Amps at 12 VDC = 480 watts OR 4 Amps at 120VAC = 480 watts....could be true...

[Harvard]

In error...

[Leeski_Clan]

The fridge is under warranty, its a new unit. The difficult thing is to get a local Canadian dealer to look at it because the dealer I bought it from is in Nebraska. Camping season is just starting, the dealers service bays around here are at capacity.

Sigh.... the joys of owning a new trailer...

[enblethen]

I would start looking at the 120 volt element now. My first guess is the wire(s) are going to ground where they enter the stack. It maybe possible to repair by sliding shrink tubing over them separately.
Yes, try to get it repaired under warranty, but repair as a temporaru measure. Let the dealer know!
Call the refer manufacturer. They may have someone local to do repair.

[Leeski_Clan]

Its a new unit, the dealer said they tested it during thier PDI so I didn't turn the fridge on electric during our walk through. Unfortunately, they are 1200 miles away. (good deal, worth the drive)

Thanks for the advice, I will run it on propane until cold and then switch over to electric. If it draws 40+ Amps again, then its the heating element.

Thank you!