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Honda 2000i Carb Job With Photos Must Read!!!!!

AISURFFISH
Explorer
Explorer
I wanted to share a bit of my time and knowledge of the Honda 2000 I generator. I know that this time of year we all want to get things started and dont want to have the hassle of needing our Honda and having it not work. Here is a 30 minute fix up that will get you going.
This is a simple Carb cleaning and maintenance.
First empty old fuel by tilting the genny over and getting all of the old stuff out of there.


First remove the side panel

Then remove the Air Cleaner cover. one flat head screw.

Using an 8mm socket remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt.

Once the hardware is removed pull off the air clean box, intake manifold and the breather tube. These 3 parts can be removed in one big piece. You can see where the breather tube goes in photo below.

The breather tube runs into the engine body here.

All 3 parts removed and set aside.

First remove the fuel line.
Slide the Carb off of the two bolts that will remain in the block of the engine. I like to leave the cable attached. This is the Eco Throttle. If you remove it you will have a spring shoot off and if you do manage to find it you most likely won't figure out how to put it back without a trip to a Honda dealer. It's just easier to leave on.

Front side of Carb.

Engine with the parts removed. This is a good time to drain the oil and fill it back up.


These photos show the position of the vent tubes so you can see where they are form replacing. Go ahead and remove the tubes now. Using a 10mm socket remover the float bowl nut. It's the Brass one seen above in the middle of the float bowl.

You can now see the float. The float pivots on a pin it is simply slid out for removal of the float. The float moves up and down and shuts off the fuel to the bowl. The bowl will most likely show signs of rust and will need a good cleaning. There is an o-ring gasket there, you can usually reuse this gasket.

Here the float have been removed.

The main jet is in the tube shown. Use a skinny screw driver and remove the jet and 2 parts will fall out. These are almost always full of gunk. Use a Carb cleaner in a can and blow these parts out really good. Take extra time this is the heart of the Carb.

These are how the parts go back in. Order and direction is important.

At this point use the carb cleaner and spray all of the inner parts of the float area and spray ino any holes you see. Spray into the holes while moving throttle plates and choke plates. You basically want to exercise all moving parts and get the cleaner into everywhere.
At this point put everything back together on the carb in reverse order and put the vents tubes back on.
Slide the Carb back onto the 2 bolts and then run the vent tubes back into the Genset case. As shown below.


Shown about is the Carb back on with the tubes re-run.



These photos show the bolts going back in and the final steps to getting it back to running order.

At this point you can change the plug and give her a pull!!!

I hope this has been informative.

To those of you that will be attending the Mid Atlantic Truck Camper Rally Just ask and I can walk you though this in no time. And maybe throw in a quick seminar if enough folks are interested in seeing it done.
2017 F350 6.2L Crew Cab

Arctic Fox 990 2021 TORK-LIFT FAST GUNS AND SUPER HITCH
COOLER RACK OFF THE FRONT ALWAYS FULL OF FISHING RODS TICA TO BE EXACT

235 REPLIES 235

brbo
Explorer
Explorer
Not this brand but similar I just glued it to the case and ran the wire into plug access. I got it more to monitor eng hours but tach is handy too.

http://www.tinytach.com/tinytach/index.php

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Brian, I am curious as to what you use to determine the generator RPM?

I have not had my carb apart for about five years, always just drained the water from the bowel and fuel tank, when it started running rough. It is about due, and I think I will take it apart this time.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

brbo
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the great thread, it's come in handy...

I do have a problem still however -

EU1000 is my model, last year I used it pretty hard for one weekend max load 16 hours straight a day for 4 days,,, new oil to start and new oil afterwards - always use Seafoam then it was put away and the first time I started it no proper idle - choke required - ah dirt ok - followed instructions near exact for 1000..

It never responded - so 3-4 attempts of cleaning and reassembly taking very close note that all gaskets hoses etc were proper...still same hunting at idle and needed half choke to run,,,

Ok now finally get back to it today - determined to fix it - pulled it all apart thoroughly cleaned all parts with carb cleaner and compressed air 3 times,,,, not tested yet fingers crossed....

First issue - I noticed the throttle doesn't spring back it stays were I place it - did a thorough cleaning of it...I guess I managed to leave it in wide open position as when I started the genie for the first time after re-assembly it ran at 5440rpm with eco throttle on..

SOOO I pulled all apart again another thorough cleaning and drying with compressed air and turned throttle closed this time no spring action...reassembled and voila seems to work great at idle with max load it increases idle and goes back down -

Second issue - idle on eco is now running 4150rpm no load when it use to be 3950rpm,,, is this a problem I can resolve..

Third Issue - it hunts with full wide open throttle with max load... not terrible hunting but it is hunting almost 200rpm up down with max load on,,

Any suggestions ??

Again great site and Honda Genie thread

Thank You,

Regards,
Brian

Wrkn2mch
Explorer
Explorer
32dgrz wrote:
I bought mine from these guys http://www.wisesales.com/


I bought mine at the same place and i couldn't find it for less anywhere else. Another RV forum i belong to all talk about wise sales as being a good place (which i agree with)...... I had it in about four days.
Joe

32dgrz
Explorer
Explorer
I bought mine from these guys http://www.wisesales.com/

RLGetman
Explorer
Explorer
This was a great article. I am shopping for a generator now for my purchased 2005 Mobile Suites and I think I will go with the Honda 2000 and in the future, if needed, run a pair of them. At the moment, I need the generator at the storage site to begin preparing the unit for full timeing. Not sure if I will purchase from Camp World (~$1000)or order online with free shipping and no tax (~$800). Thanks

bigfootford
Nomad II
Nomad II
CMH wrote:
I am still having problems with my 2000. I have cleaned the carb, Sea foamed the fuel tank, and fresh fuel. I have to run it with 1/2 choke and it will only run for about 5 mins or so. Any suggestions?


You have to remove that emlusion tube and clean it. That's where the debris will restrict the fuel and lean out the motor.

That little tube is right under the jet (screw). It sometimes is difficult to get out. You will see the small holes for the fuel, they will plug up. You can not clean this tube while it is in the carb, you have to get it out. Be careful if you use a blast of air from some of the ports of the carb. The tube can come out flying!!! I nearly lost mine the first time I did it.



Jim
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260, Two Redodo 100ah Mini's, Aims 2500 Conv/Inv, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Delorme/laptop for travel, Wave-3 heat.

roadtoadflorida
Explorer
Explorer
When I cleaned my carb on the 2000, I managed to get the manifold gasket in backwards, or not aligned correctly. Therefore it was sucking air and loping. I took it all apart once again and made it right. Worked that time. Another time after I cleaned the carb, it did not work as well. I did it again and it ran good. These darn things are so touchy, just a speck of residue in there will effect it. Try again if you do not succeed at first, then again. Best of Luck.
RT
Ken and Pat
CB Handle: "Road Toad" Channel 19
2011 Flagstaff 30 FT TT
2015 Ford F250 4x4 Crew Cab
Okaloosa County, Florida

CMH
Explorer
Explorer
I am still having problems with my 2000. I have cleaned the carb, Sea foamed the fuel tank, and fresh fuel. I have to run it with 1/2 choke and it will only run for about 5 mins or so. Any suggestions?
2004 Terry Quantum 2952BS Fiver--2003 GMC D/A SB 4X4 Pullrite Super Slide, Prodigy

Star_Gazer
Explorer
Explorer
Again, great post! Mine has started to lope and I must run it at half choke to smooth it out. I may try the carb cleaner first and run a tank, if it does not clear up I will remove the carb, looks pretty straight forward.

Thanks for posting this!

Dean
2008 Phaeton 36QSH
2015 Ford Transit 250
2006 17' Casita FD (mobile observatory)

rehoppe
Explorer
Explorer
Some years ago, I was told that Acetone was a good additive to increase fuel mileage. Followed what was advised on the web as to dosage. Mileage did get better, for a couple or three tanks it got Progressively better, then leveled off.

Decided to not mess with it anymore, so quit using/adding the acetone. Mileage stayed the same for about 5-6k miles. 2oz per 10 gallons, mileage came back up. Heck of a carb cleaner! Finally got some sense and read the ingredient list on Injector cleaner, Oh yea, it's acetone.

Finger nail polish remover is the expensive way to buy it in an emergency. It'll say 100% acetone or maybe 97%, with unknown/misc 3%. Or by the gallon at the paint/hardware. It's a bit more of a pain to repackage and put in tank.

Do it a tank or two prior to oil change. Just in case your piston rings are leaky! It's a viscosity killer in your oil. Injectors, carbs, fuel delivery system. Good stuff. Gasoline only!
Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT

spacedoutbob
Explorer
Explorer
Small engine Carburetors are so simple and easy to work on, if they don't have any leaks coming from the throttle shafts. Nothing to be afraid of. I used to specialize in Carburetors for Cars and Trucks when we were in business. The first time I worked on a Briggs and Stratton Carburetor, I couldn't believe how simple the design was. If you have a generator that is giving you problems, give it a try it will be worth it.

Just my 2/100th of a cent.

Bob
Good Sam Club Life Member

racewave
Explorer
Explorer
My Honda 2000 has no dedicated fuel only shutoff. Before storage I drain the tank and then put in just a little gas (just an amount so that it will start and run 5-10 minutes) I let it run till it runs out of gas and stops. This should have drained the carb bowl. I then pull the start cord slowly until it feels like it is on the compression cycle with the valves shut. I try to do that last run with a fresh oil change in it. I think this places it in storage with clean oil, no fuel, and the cylinder sealed from outside air. I may be wrong??

popeye59
Explorer
Explorer
I don't know about that. Around here we already have 10% alcohol in our gas.
Frank and Jean
EM1 USN ret
DAV Life Member

'09 Rockwood Roo 233S
'03 1500 Silverado LS

The things that come to those that wait will be the junky stuff left by those that got there 1st.

Remember; never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

GMC4ME
Explorer
Explorer
Try putting a cap-full of rubbing alcohol in a tank of gas. It will cut all the gunk and burn it. I do this with all of my yard/garden equipment - tiller, chipper, lawn mower, blower, string trimmer, etc.
Wes