I wanted to share a bit of my time and knowledge of the Honda 2000 I generator. I know that this time of year we all want to get things started and dont want to have the hassle of needing our Honda and having it not work. Here is a 30 minute fix up that will get you going.
This is a simple Carb cleaning and maintenance.
First empty old fuel by tilting the genny over and getting all of the old stuff out of there.
First remove the side panel
Then remove the Air Cleaner cover. one flat head screw.
Using an 8mm socket remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt.
Once the hardware is removed pull off the air clean box, intake manifold and the breather tube. These 3 parts can be removed in one big piece. You can see where the breather tube goes in photo below.
The breather tube runs into the engine body here.
All 3 parts removed and set aside.
First remove the fuel line.
Slide the Carb off of the two bolts that will remain in the block of the engine. I like to leave the cable attached. This is the Eco Throttle. If you remove it you will have a spring shoot off and if you do manage to find it you most likely won't figure out how to put it back without a trip to a Honda dealer. It's just easier to leave on.
Front side of Carb.
Engine with the parts removed. This is a good time to drain the oil and fill it back up.
These photos show the position of the vent tubes so you can see where they are form replacing. Go ahead and remove the tubes now. Using a 10mm socket remover the float bowl nut. It's the Brass one seen above in the middle of the float bowl.
You can now see the float. The float pivots on a pin it is simply slid out for removal of the float. The float moves up and down and shuts off the fuel to the bowl. The bowl will most likely show signs of rust and will need a good cleaning. There is an o-ring gasket there, you can usually reuse this gasket.
Here the float have been removed.
The main jet is in the tube shown. Use a skinny screw driver and remove the jet and 2 parts will fall out. These are almost always full of gunk. Use a Carb cleaner in a can and blow these parts out really good. Take extra time this is the heart of the Carb.
These are how the parts go back in. Order and direction is important.
At this point use the carb cleaner and spray all of the inner parts of the float area and spray ino any holes you see. Spray into the holes while moving throttle plates and choke plates. You basically want to exercise all moving parts and get the cleaner into everywhere.
At this point put everything back together on the carb in reverse order and put the vents tubes back on.
Slide the Carb back onto the 2 bolts and then run the vent tubes back into the Genset case. As shown below.
Shown about is the Carb back on with the tubes re-run.
These photos show the bolts going back in and the final steps to getting it back to running order.
At this point you can change the plug and give her a pull!!!
I hope this has been informative.
To those of you that will be attending the Mid Atlantic Truck Camper Rally Just ask and I can walk you though this in no time. And maybe throw in a quick seminar if enough folks are interested in seeing it done.
This is a simple Carb cleaning and maintenance.
First empty old fuel by tilting the genny over and getting all of the old stuff out of there.
First remove the side panel
Then remove the Air Cleaner cover. one flat head screw.
Using an 8mm socket remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt.
Once the hardware is removed pull off the air clean box, intake manifold and the breather tube. These 3 parts can be removed in one big piece. You can see where the breather tube goes in photo below.
The breather tube runs into the engine body here.
All 3 parts removed and set aside.
First remove the fuel line.
Slide the Carb off of the two bolts that will remain in the block of the engine. I like to leave the cable attached. This is the Eco Throttle. If you remove it you will have a spring shoot off and if you do manage to find it you most likely won't figure out how to put it back without a trip to a Honda dealer. It's just easier to leave on.
Front side of Carb.
Engine with the parts removed. This is a good time to drain the oil and fill it back up.
These photos show the position of the vent tubes so you can see where they are form replacing. Go ahead and remove the tubes now. Using a 10mm socket remover the float bowl nut. It's the Brass one seen above in the middle of the float bowl.
You can now see the float. The float pivots on a pin it is simply slid out for removal of the float. The float moves up and down and shuts off the fuel to the bowl. The bowl will most likely show signs of rust and will need a good cleaning. There is an o-ring gasket there, you can usually reuse this gasket.
Here the float have been removed.
The main jet is in the tube shown. Use a skinny screw driver and remove the jet and 2 parts will fall out. These are almost always full of gunk. Use a Carb cleaner in a can and blow these parts out really good. Take extra time this is the heart of the Carb.
These are how the parts go back in. Order and direction is important.
At this point use the carb cleaner and spray all of the inner parts of the float area and spray ino any holes you see. Spray into the holes while moving throttle plates and choke plates. You basically want to exercise all moving parts and get the cleaner into everywhere.
At this point put everything back together on the carb in reverse order and put the vents tubes back on.
Slide the Carb back onto the 2 bolts and then run the vent tubes back into the Genset case. As shown below.
Shown about is the Carb back on with the tubes re-run.
These photos show the bolts going back in and the final steps to getting it back to running order.
At this point you can change the plug and give her a pull!!!
I hope this has been informative.
To those of you that will be attending the Mid Atlantic Truck Camper Rally Just ask and I can walk you though this in no time. And maybe throw in a quick seminar if enough folks are interested in seeing it done.
bigfootford wrote:Reddog1 wrote:
If I underestand correctly, the tube you want to remove is piece 12 (NOZZLE, MAIN (Honda Code 6727770) in the carb break down. If true, did you remove the piece 32 (JET SET, PILOT (#35) (Honda Code 1441609)? With piece 32 removed, you can insert a flat screwdriver in the throat of the carb, and using the flat side of the screwdriver, push the piece 12 down.
When looking at the diagram, find the top of 12 (emulsion tube) that tip will protrude into the inside of the venturi/throat of the carb..Remove 31 (jet) with a screwdriver. Just use the flat part of the screw driver and push 12 from the inside of the venturi. ..It will slide out enough to pull it out where 31 (jet) was screwed into.
Jim
I was able to fix my EU1000i by cleaning the carb and adjusting the fuel pilot screw, #5 in the diagram. The pilot screw has an anti-tamper cover on the screw that must be removed. The cover is glued on with green Loctite. Just heat the cover with solder iron and pry off. I had the governor bounce until I backed the fuel screw out to two turns and the generator ran smooth on the eco mode. The carb must be removed to make and adjustment to the pilot screw, so track your adjustments, I went ยฝ turn until the engine smoothed out, then ยผ turn fine adjustment. This is probably an adjustment that every Honda generator needs.
MM49
