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Hot water heater is blowing the relief valve...

groundhogy
Explorer
Explorer
Looks like it will start up from cold, then
I guess it gets too hot? It locks out ignition
and gas, and relief valve is dripping.

This is my first rv, so Im trying to learn
this system.

any help appreciated.

groundhog
18 REPLIES 18

DennisG9
Explorer
Explorer
smkettner wrote:
Get a small expansion tank after you replace the valve.

http://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-182-200-Pre-Pressurized-Accumulator-Tank

IMO every RV should have one.


Expansion tank is the way to go. In an RV you have a check valve on your fresh water line coming in so it creates a closed loop on the side your water heater is on. You are building excess pressure where in a stick house you have room for it to go to but in an RV it is a much shorter run. I added an expansion tank on mine and it cured the same problem your having.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Ok. as the water heats first the T-Stat should open, this is normal operation, and burners stops.. The water than cools, the T-Stat closes and it "Recycles"

Page 2: IF the T-Stat continues to heat the ECO should open, this will cause the lock outs you cite.. but should not blow the TPR.

IF it continues to heat, a plug in the TPR melts, when this happens it does not drip.. IT GUSHES, I mean Niagra Falls level Gushes. (Been there, Done that, not on an RV though) I mean Gallons per minute, Not drips per minute.


Dripping indicates a need to drain and flush the water heater.. (Routine maintenance) LET IT COOL, Remove drain plug, Install short 1/2 inch pipe (plastic, brass or metal) to extend flow past side of RV, if Suburban needing anode inspect anode and replace if needed. Flush using flush want (optional) and once drained close TPR and replace plug.

But check the T-Stats.

It is doubtful (Impossible on mine) that the dripping TPR is dripping water onto a circuit board and shorting it out. But I am basing that on MY water heater.. I've not seen yours.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
Houston Remodeler wrote:
T&P valves are easy and cheap to replace. I'd start there.

Mine wasn't easy. First of all I had to make a special tool to remove and install. And 2nd, it was super tight,..... after 2 trys, I went for broke, figured on a new heater, but got lucky.
And if I recall, after I made the tool, I found one on line made for that purpose.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
smkettner wrote:
Get a small expansion tank after you replace the valve.

http://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-182-200-Pre-Pressurized-Accumulator-Tank

IMO every RV should have one.

X 3 !!
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Atwood G6A-6E ------ 6 gallon 'gas' only with electronic ignitor

Uses a front mount t-stat/ECO
T-stat OPENS at 140*F and CLOSES at 110*F
ECO OPENS at 180*F and CLOSES (auto reset) at 150*F

Normal operation ECO should always be CLOSED

T&P Relief Valve
OPENS on HIGH Temperature 210*F
OPENS on HIGH Pressure 150# ---resets 125#
IT is the fail safe device........normal t-stat fails then ECO, ECO fails then T&P
Depending on which tank was used T&P can be 1/2" NPT or 3/4" NPT threads. Available at most any hardware store


'FAULT' Light (Red light ON/OFF Switch Panel) Comes ON:
IF propane fails to light off and PROVE (no return signal to circuit board ---so voltage on gas valve gets dropped closing it)
IF 'Thermal Cut off' trips (190*F blow back ------dirty/obstructed combustion chamber)
IF ECO OPENS
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

Houston_Remodel
Explorer
Explorer
T&P = temperature and pressure, which are the two reasons the valve will automatically open.

Read all about them
2015 Starcraft Launch 24RLS
2014 Ram 2500 diesel 4x4
Guarded by 2 Jack Russells

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Yes, zero ohms for the ECO when operating under normal conditions.
The thermostat will open(no resistance) at the set value, roughly 130 degrees.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

willi4nd
Explorer
Explorer
PRV's weaken and calcium builds up, replace with correct one. Match specs on ring.
New to the RV world and loving every minute of it.
2015 Nissan Frontier 4x4 6 cyl
2015 Trail Runner SLE 22

groundhogy
Explorer
Explorer
Relief valve was tripped and then due to age didn't fully spring back

groundhogy
Explorer
Explorer
relief valve does not normally drip

groundhogy
Explorer
Explorer
So the relief valve works on pressure or temp or both?

T&P means temp and pressure?

groundhogy
Explorer
Explorer
The unit is an Atwood G6A-6E.

So when you say the eco has continuity, you mean zero ohms below like 180?
And the thermostat is open circuit below 130 deg?

Houston_Remodel
Explorer
Explorer
T&P valves are easy and cheap to replace. I'd start there.
2015 Starcraft Launch 24RLS
2014 Ram 2500 diesel 4x4
Guarded by 2 Jack Russells