Hot Water Heater?

[acritzer]

First time trying to fire up the hot water heater since the winter. It just kind of hisses, I never really hear it light up. Somehow it did warm up some water, but not very much and not very hot.

Tried flipping it off and on several times. Tried propane inside the camper and it's fine.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

[cdburkett1]

ksg5000 wrote:
Not sure about "hissing" but a propane water heater has a large visible flame - go outside and see what the flame looks like. If no flame then - see if you can smell gas. If no flame and you can smell gas then you might need to remove the spark assembly - clean the probes with emery board and make sure they are within correct range for ignition. You just need to remove a screw or two - not hard.

I have a similar problem and I have the SW6P not DSI. I don't smell gas at the hot WH when I try to light my pilot. suggestions? Could air in the line cause this?

[Old-Biscuit]

ON/OFF Switch for "ELECTRIC" heat element (This is OEM from factory)
Oval cover under gas valve is were element is installed (next to drain plug)




This is the "Push TO Reset' cover over the double set of t-stats




Propane ON/OFF switch will be inside RV.....could be on panel RV MFG. installed OR on a panel supplied by Suburban

Electric could have an additional on/off inside RV but that would be one RV MFG. added. In that case BOTH electric inside and outside switches have to be ON for electric heating.

[Kayteg1]

till the next time.
Being mechanically inclined I had to learn electricity and electronics as there is no easy way to live today without such knowledge.
Still remember that electronic things that could take me hours to troubleshoot years ago, now when I gain more practice take me 90 seconds.
So memorizing principals behind the system is not a bad thing.

[ksg5000]

Nice - glad I am not the only one who gets things fixed but hasn't a clue exactly what I did that fixed it. It's the end result that counts.

[acritzer]

Ok! Long story short, I got it working! Through all the things I tried I can't say exactly what it was, but it works!

Thanks everyone!

[Kayteg1]

Over the years technology changed, but if you have switches for WH operation, they should have control light.
On my electronic igniter, the switch light will blink when I turn it on and it will light in case of malfunction.
My add-on electric element has the switch lighted all the time it is on.
It is easy to forget those things and than you keep scratching your head where the power goes in.

[acritzer]

j-d wrote:
The switch on the left side of SW6DE is to allow 120-Volts-AC operation, not LPG. You may or may not have a switch inside your coach that supplies power to that switch outside on the water heater. If you have both, then both have to be ON, and of course your coach must have 120-VAC running.
There should definitely be an indoor switch for LPG operation and that requires both LPG and 12-Volts-DC. The LPG switch should have a red indicator in it to show that it's ON, PLUS another red "malfunction" light to show that it has not lighted. Sequence should be: Switch ON, Both Red Lights ON, then Clicking, then roar of the flame, and malfunction red light OUT.
The noises you describe sound like LPG mode being turned ON, specifically the clicking. Should actually be a CLUNK (gas valve switching ON) then Clicking (the DSI sending sparks to the burner area). If it fails to light, you should hear the gas valve CLUNK again, to Off.

I don't know what to say about all the switches you're describing. I have one black switch outside and one red switch inside (the red switch is connected to my tank indicator lights and my water pump switch)

[j-d]

The switch on the left side of SW6DE is to allow 120-Volts-AC operation, not LPG. You may or may not have a switch inside your coach that supplies power to that switch outside on the water heater. If you have both, then both have to be ON, and of course your coach must have 120-VAC running.
There should definitely be an indoor switch for LPG operation and that requires both LPG and 12-Volts-DC. The LPG switch should have a red indicator in it to show that it's ON, PLUS another red "malfunction" light to show that it has not lighted. Sequence should be: Switch ON, Both Red Lights ON, then Clicking, then roar of the flame, and malfunction red light OUT.
The noises you describe sound like LPG mode being turned ON, specifically the clicking. Should actually be a CLUNK (gas valve switching ON) then Clicking (the DSI sending sparks to the burner area). If it fails to light, you should hear the gas valve CLUNK again, to Off.

[ksg5000]

Might be corrosion/loose terminal. Try removing/cleaning the various wires - easy to do and eliminates one more possibility.

[acritzer]

New day. Anyone else have ideas/things to try? I don't have a problem replacing components, but don't want to aimlessly.

[acritzer]

I have a switch outside on the heater for propane heating. I have a switch inside on a panel for electric heating. I don't have any indicator lights for either function.

When I turn on the electric heating switch I hear a high pitch whine, followed by clicking. This repeats a few times.
When I turn on the propane switch I hear a hiss and that's it.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
In outside compartment is a rubber cover above the gas valve with 'PUSH TO RESET'

Under those buttons are resets for the Hi Temp T-stats....if tripped no Power for operation

The Left one is for the 120V AC and the electric operation
The Right one is for the 12V DC and the propane operation'

Push them both....if tripped you will feel them go in and 'reset'

Then while out there have SOMEONE ELSE turn propane switch ON while you watch/listen for:
Spark electrode firing....you should be able to SEE the spark and HEAR the click click click of the spark electrode
While the click/sparking is going on the gas valve opens for 6-8 Seconds (UNLESS a main flame lights off and engulfs electrode proving it has lit). If it doesn't light off/prove circuit board closes gas valve.
It can attempt this light off sequence 3X then it should 'lock out' stop trying turn RED Fault light on at switch panel

So try above and then post back what does happen and what doesn't happen

[Old-Biscuit]

In outside compartment is a rubber cover above the gas valve with 'PUSH TO RESET'

Under those buttons are resets for the Hi Temp T-stats....if tripped no Power for operation

The Left one is for the 120V AC and the electric operation
The Right one is for the 12V DC and the propane operation'

Push them both....if tripped you will feel them go in and 'reset'

Then while out there have SOMEONE ELSE turn propane switch ON while you watch/listen for:
Spark electrode firing....you should be able to SEE the spark and HEAR the click click click of the spark electrode
While the click/sparking is going on the gas valve opens for 6-8 Seconds (UNLESS a main flame lights off and engulfs electrode proving it has lit). If it doesn't light off/prove circuit board closes gas valve.
It can attempt this light off sequence 3X then it should 'lock out' stop trying turn RED Fault light on at switch panel

So try above and then post back what does happen and what doesn't happen

[acritzer]

Sorry...that's never mind on the prv, still need help with the actual heater!

Thanks

[acritzer]

Never mind. Figured it out. Warm water came out, not hot.