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How to use volt meter

taigarazz
Explorer
Explorer
So I am a bit electrically challenged. Whenever I start reading about RV electric systems, I just start nodding off. Not good, and I am trying to educate myself.

But I feel a more urgent need to understand how to use a simple volt meter to check the electric at my campsite hook up, before I plug in and fry something. So far I have been lucky, but I don't want to depend on luck for the long haul.

Thanks
27 REPLIES 27

jmsokol
Explorer
Explorer
Harvey51 wrote:
Jmsokol, I'm glad to have opportunity to thank you for your most interesting article on the dangerous double wiring mistake that isn't detectable without a no contact tester. My old electrician friend and I quite enjoyed it and we will now be using our no contact testers when checking outlets.

You're most welcome. The knowledge that RPBG ms-wired outlets can exist and how they work explains a lot of crazy shock and sparks I've seen through the years. Now they make sense.
It seems so unnecessary to hire an electrician just to hook up an outlet but the evidence is that there are quite a few people who don't know as much as they think they do about wiring.
If everyone followed code it should be simple. But I've seen a lot of houses, stages, RVs, and sound systems that were wired terribly. Knowing how to read and interpret meter readings is vitally important when you're hooking into unknown power sources.

Glad I could be of help.....

Mike Sokol
www.NoShockZone.org

Harvey51
Explorer
Explorer
Jmsokol, I'm glad to have opportunity to thank you for your most interesting article on the dangerous double wiring mistake that isn't detectable without a no contact tester. My old electrician friend and I quite enjoyed it and we will now be using our no contact testers when checking outlets.

It seems so unnecessary to hire an electrician just to hook up an outlet but the evidence is that there are quite a few people who don't know as much as they think they do about wiring.
2004 E350 Adventurer (Canadian) 20 footer - Alberta, Canada
No TV + 100W solar = no generator needed

RV_wanderer
Explorer
Explorer
Not sure if someone mentioned this but the first thing I do is visually inspect the outlet (30A or 50A) at the pedestal before doing any other checks. It's not uncommon to see burnt contact(s) inside the outlet. Inserting the plug from your RV with the nice, shiny contacts into that socket will quickly degrade the pins if used too long under high amperage conditions (running A/C, water heater, etc.). The resultant arcing will increase the electrical resistance of the pins, which in turn creates more heat and hastens the process. The only fix is to move to another spot or have the maintenance person change the socket.
"Not all who wander are lost"

2008 3500 RAM/Cummins
2007 NuWa FW, 29'

jmsokol
Explorer
Explorer
joebedford wrote:
I know how to use a DVM. Maybe I've been lucky but I've never tested an outlet before plugging in. How many people actually have problems? (yes, I know it happens sometimes).

Perhaps I'm just a magnet for these things, but I have emails from hundreds of RV users across the country who have experience pedestal and home outlet problems of all kinds. Most of the home/garage outlet issues are due to open grounds, which will allow any leakage currents inside your RV to move from a few volts above earth potential, up to 120-volts potential. I also have perhaps a dozen direct emails from readers who had an "electrician" mis-wire a TT-30 Amp outlet with 240-volts instead of 120-volts on their house (for driveway powering of their RV). Those were all disasters, with one electrician suggesting the RV owner run the insurance claim of $20,000 thru their homeowner insurance policy since he didn't want to pay for the damages. I can see Google searches that find NoShockZone and get perhaps 100 searches per week asking what happens when you plug a 120-volt RV into a TT-30 outlet mis-wired with 240-volts. Yes, there were 5,000 Google searches that found NoShockZone.org using that key word string in the last year alone.

I also was at one campground in Texas last year where an electrician accidentally wired up a bunch of 20 and 30 amp outlets at new campsites with 208-volts instead of 120-volts. The campers were complaining their RV electrical systems were burning up, and the campground owner said it must be due to "lightning strikes". But one smart camper metered his pedestal outlet before plugging in and figured it out. The electrician had hooked into something called a high-leg Delta bus, fairly common with 1970's industrial wiring, especially in the mid-west. And yes, these were BRAND NEW pedestal boxes at new campsite pads.

And I'm cataloging a number of RPBG (Reverse Polarity Bootleg Ground) outlets around boat docks and home garages which we suspect was the cause of electrocution deaths of at least several swimmers and RV owners in the last year. See http://www.rvdoctor.com/2001/07/friends-of-gary-mike.html for an explanation of why an RPBG is so dangerous and impossible to detect using standard measuring tests.

I've also had several complaints from a state campground were every singe pedestal outlet was wired with reversed phase (swapped H-N). While not immediately dangerous, reversed H-N phase is a code violation and easily discovered with even a $5 3-light outlet tester.

A few of my EE buddies who are RV owners have also complained that campgrounds often use "workcampers" to wire pedestal outlets, and they suspect that could be one of the causes of mis-wiring.

Now, I don't want to be a doomsayer, but note that most of the advice that's given to RV owners who find a bad outlet is to simply ask for a new campsite. Few if any of them are told to notify the campground owner about the problem, just leaving it for the next unlucky RV to plug into. I think that's socially irresponsible, since a mis-wired outlet can easily cause an RV to have hot-skin condition, and that could electrocute (read KILL) the next person who plugs into it.

Mike Sokol
www.NoShockZone.org

rk911
Explorer
Explorer
suggest you add this type of product to your equipment. you can find them online or in some over-the-counter stores.
Rich
Ham Radio, Sport Pilot, Retired 9-1-1 Call Center Administrator
_________________________________
2016 Itasca Suncruiser 38Q
'46 Willys CJ2A
'23 Jeep Wrangler JL
'10 Jeep Liberty KK

& MaggieThe Wonder Beagle

JRS___B
Explorer
Explorer
If you do not mind spending $300 to $400, you can always just buy a surge protector that plugs in/hangs on the pedestal. It will tell you the voltage, and will kick you off if there is a harmful high or low voltage condition present. It also checks polarity. It will also obviously protect you from a power surge, but not a lightning strike.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
ONE HERE! Multiples of Multiple times.

joebedford
Nomad II
Nomad II
I know how to use a DVM. Maybe I've been lucky but I've never tested an outlet before plugging in. How many people actually have problems? (yes, I know it happens sometimes).

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
taigarazz, don't feel lonely.
What you need is something that you plug into a 50-amp outlet and tells you yes or no, It's OK or NO IT IS NOT OK. Voltage wise. Miswired yes or no. That is what you are looking for, right? No mathematical formulas, no electric "scales" to beware of. Avoid the dreaded "Floating Decimal Point" syndrome. Rationally simple

http://50amppowerpal.com/

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Yes, the unit I posted from Prime will give you polarity and voltage. That should be all you need.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

taigarazz
Explorer
Explorer
I KNEW this would confuse me!
So, I arrive at the site.
What I care about is how many volts, how many amps, and polarity?? (And I guess if there are scorch marks around the receptacle I should just back away!)
Is there any one device that will tell me if it is ok to plug in or no?

I need simple
L

jmsokol
Explorer
Explorer
RichieC wrote:
A VOM is well worth learning to use, BUT if you don't use it all the time or don't have the desire for it you may find yourself unsure of your ability to use it.

As suggested, use a polarity tester to back up your diagnoses.

I would also suggest you get a Non Contact Voltage Tester (NCVT) to confirm the outlet isn't miswired as a Reverse Polarity Bootleg Ground (RPBG). There are no outlet testers on the market that can discover an RPBG. See my article on Gary Bunzer's newsletter about how to use a NCVT to check for this dangerous condition RV Doctor

And here's how to use a NCVT to check for outlet polarity and RV hot-skin conditions Hot-Skin Test

Mike Sokol
www.NoShockZone.org

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
WyoTraveler - Good question - I'm not sure if that is all standard among the 50A(M) to 30A (F) adapters or not..

This is a simplified drawing of a camp ground pedestal


This is a schematic of a typical 50A(M) to 30A (F) adapter.


You would hope it would be on the same side of the 240V leg that the 30A adapter is using in the above drawing of the camp ground pedestal. I never measured one... All I know is only side of the split is brought through the adapter.

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

ol_Bombero-JC
Explorer
Explorer
hddecker wrote:
taigarazz wrote:
So I am a bit electrically challenged. Whenever I start reading about RV electric systems, I just start nodding off. Not good, and I am trying to educate myself.

But I feel a more urgent need to understand how to use a simple volt meter to check the electric at my campsite hook up, before I plug in and fry something. So far I have been lucky, but I don't want to depend on luck for the long haul.

Thanks


This is what I use. http://www.p3international.com/products/p4400.html




Go to "p3 International" via Google for models, sources (lots) and prices.

A more sophisticated (and pricey) option:

"Power Pal"


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