HydroFlame 8516-IV 2003 model not working- can i fix?

[campingwiththor]

Update: 8Pm- I fixed it! Took it all apart... Used air... Blew out thermo with air too...reseated connectors on and on ... Still would not light... Kept getting the,3 red blinking lights... Was about to give up when I read online about a guy that had the exact same issues...,it tuned out to be his propain tank (even tho just like me the stove works fine) so I went to my tanks and shut off the tank.... Then SLOWLY opened the valve... Tried the furnace and it started right up. Technically I have no idea what was going on but I can tell you the furnace has not worked in 3 years. Could it be some sort of air bubble, or blockage in the propain lines? Don't know but it's working now. Thanks for all the input. CWT

My furnace powers up and fan blows a few minutes- sounds like its trying to light but Alas- it only blows cold air a few minutes then shuts off. I have to wait awhile to fire it up again...then try again...and only getting same results.

How can I determine if its a bad thermostat AND/OR something else within the furnace its self? Trying to trouble shoot as far as I can because I do not want to pay $10000000's of dollars in repair if its simple part swap etc...

UPDATE: took cover off- can clearly hear the ignitor trying ti fire up - after a couple tries the blower shuts off and a RED light on the circuit board on the left side starts blinking. 3 blinks with 3sec pause then 3 blinks etc.. = IGNITION LOCKOUT FAULT

So- anyone know what a ILF is and is it enduser curable?

(partnumber under outside cover says 8530-IV)

Thank you one and all!

CWT

[chainegang]

If the connection to the ignitor is the press on type like what exists for auto spark plugs, one common problem is the internal part of the connection to the ignitors post is not clamping firmly enough. Even thu you can press it on and it seems tight, any minut loosness not felt via the feel test will cause the current to be inconsistant resulting in your type of problem. If you do have the post fitting as opposed to the blade type connection, crimp the fitting on the wire little so that the slip on connection is super tight. Regular pliers will do the job by squeezing the end of the wire. You can do this safely thru the insulating boot at the end of that connection. Just do not damage the covering rubber/plastic boot. Hope this helps.

[campingwiththor]

Re: pigtails; That is what's weird here... Last winter I replaced the propane regulator and both pigtails because they were all jelled up. I had zero propane flow to my stove. I replaces the 3 pieces and was good to go - but of course the furnace still did not work. I wonder if there was some sort of air bubble or other from the regulator to the furnace that vanished yesterday when I slowly opened the valve.

[Old-Biscuit]

Update: 8Pm- I fixed it! Took it all apart... Used air... Blew out thermo with air too...reseated connectors on and on ... Still would not light... Kept getting the,3 red blinking lights... Was about to give up when I read online about a guy that had the exact same issues...,it tuned out to be his propain tank (even tho just like me the stove works fine) so I went to my tanks and shut off the tank.... Then SLOWLY opened the valve... Tried the furnace and it started right up. Technically I have no idea what was going on but I can tell you the furnace has not worked in 3 years. Could it be some sort of air bubble, or blockage in the propain lines? Don't know but it's working now. Thanks for all the input. CWT

The furnace is a real gas hog......stove not so much.
When you quickly open the valve on propane cylinder there is a ball bearing check valve inside the pigtail hose nut. It limits the amount of flow that can go thru pigtail....it should fully open when pressure on both sides equalize. Sometimes they don't and closing propane valve then slowly opening it can allow that ball bearing to move fully open. (They are excess flow valves designed to close if there is a sudden increase in flow)

How old are the pigtails on your cylinders? The 'check valve' may be sticking due to moisture/oily residue from propane.

[Old-Biscuit]

T-stat calls for heat........furnace fan comes ON. IT runs to purge combustion chamber first. The blower causes the 'sail switch to close so that 12V power can go thru sail switch, thru high temp limit switch to control board.
When purge time is over..power from control board goes to gas valve solenoids opening the gas valve and at same time the spark electrode is energized. The spark ignites the gas and then a signal via the spark electrode generated by the main flame goes back to control board to prove the main flame is lit so power stays on gas valve holding it open. When t-stat set point is satisfied t-stat opens...power drops out to control board..gas valve closes and fan blower runs just long enough to cool/purge combustion chamber.

SO.......
No spark. Could be sail switch---they get dirty and don't move/make up so no power to board.
If not sail switch then could be control board....the connector on board could have poor contacts and needs cleaned

If it sparks but main flame doesn't light
Could be....spark electrode is out of position

Here is a service manual that covers your model.
Page 16 Sequence of Operation
Page 22-28 Description of Components
Page 29 Troubleshooting Guide

LINK

Here is a 'less technical' troubleshooting guide with pictures.....LINK

Probably needs a good cleaning...sail switch, board connector contacts

[samandtheduck]

If it starts the thermostat is probably OK. Could be a bad sail switch. It tells the unit that the fan is running. Only way to fix it is to take it apart and see what is going on. Usually a part or two will get it going so read up on how they work and open it up.
Brian