Installing (6) 6volt Batteries - Is My Wiring Diagram OK

[Racorman]

I previously posted a question regarding installing (4) 6Volt batteries in my 30’ class A MH…..smkettner was most helpful in dialing it in to make it work. I come back to the forum for additional help after spending 2 weeks in the boondocks. I found that I needed more battery power.

After sizing up all the places to put as many 6Volt batteries as I can, I found that I could actually install a total of (6) 6Volt batteries in the coach. There are 2 separate battery compartments 6 feet from each other. One holds (2) 6Volt batteries the second holds (4) 6Volt batteries.

I’ve put a wiring diagram together and hope that the system is balanced the way I have shown. Is there any problem or advantage in grounding the system at 2 separate distant points #14 and #15 (approx. 6 feet apart)?

Again, many thanks for those who know their stuff!

[Racorman]

doughere wrote:
If you ground it at both 14 and 15, the 4 batteries at the 15 end will wind up carrying more of the load. Grounded at 14 only will give a better balance.

Doug

Hello Doug and all,

My electronic savvy nephew suggested that I ground my battery bank to the chassis at posts 1,5 and 9... he thinks that would be the best balance. All my battery cables are 2/0 Gauge AWG

Thanks!

[pianotuna]

1 and 12 will also work.

[Racorman]

doughere wrote:
- 14

+ 13

Thanks!

[doughere]

- 14

+ 13

[Racorman]

Another question:

I just picked up (3) 300 watt solar panels and the controller. After I get the solar system installed on the roof and run my wiring........ at what numbered battery terminals do I attach the (-) and (+) cables from the solar controller?

[Racorman]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

If you want the system to have perfect balance then each 'set' of six volts needs to have cables to a buss bar, and all cables should be the same length. This is method #3 from the Smartgauge web site.



It shows four jars--but you can leave out one, I'm certain.

Yikes.... i do not have enough room for all the cables I'd need with that configuration. what I've done should do me well.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

If you want the system to have perfect balance then each 'set' of six volts needs to have cables to a buss bar, and all cables should be the same length. This is method #3 from the Smartgauge web site.



It shows four jars--but you can leave out one, I'm certain.

[time2roll]

Racorman wrote:
I'm planning on installing (3) 300 watt solar panels that will fit well on my roof. Because these will be 900 watts of high voltage panels I'm going to install an OUTBACK FM-80 controller.

Now this will make a huge difference. 600w might be enough but the extra panel does not add much cost and will come in handy in marginal conditions.

[Racorman]

smkettner wrote:
Again I would skip the 15 ground connection.

Still not 'perfect' but close as you will get without a major effort.

Now lets talk about how you are charging those batteries to help with the needed capacity.

Fixed......



I'm planning on installing (3) 300 watt solar panels that will fit well on my roof. Because these will be 900 watts of high voltage panels I'm going to install an OUTBACK FM-80 controller.

Any thoughts about hooking up the Battery MINDer Model OBD-12 Battery tester/desulfator which activates when charging your batteries from an alternator, solar array, generator, or other power source. Quick connector input allows for easy use of additional BatteryMINDer charger / maintainer devices. Built in battery tester indicators show battery condition. Patented full-time high frequency sweep pulse desulfation is designed to reverse and eliminate battery sulfation, the #1 cause of early battery failure.

http://www.batteryminders.com/12v-atv-jet-ski-onboard-battery-charger

[time2roll]

Again I would skip the 15 ground connection.

Compare with US Battery Configuration 3:



http://usbattery.com/info-center/configuration/configuration-3/

Still not 'perfect' but close as you will get without a major effort.

Now lets talk about how you are charging those batteries to help with the needed capacity.

[doughere]

wa8yxm wrote:
Looks good to me. I keep hearing about that "More load" stuff.. Yup, True, but how much different is it. 1% 0.1%, 0.001% I doubt it will hit more than 1% so do not worry about it (And that only if you have like 5,000 watts of inverter sucking power).

I guess its worth the extra effort to put an extra ground in if its only going to degrade the performance a little bit.

Doug

[BFL13]

If you have a Trimetric then your chassis ground goes to its shunt and then you have to go from the other end of the shunt to a battery bank neg.

The rest of the negs from inverters, converters, solar, etc also go to the shunt, so which battery neg gets the neg from the shunt can depend on the location the other things that go on the Trimetric shunt and so the location of the shunt.

[wa8yxm]

Looks good to me. I keep hearing about that "More load" stuff.. Yup, True, but how much different is it. 1% 0.1%, 0.001% I doubt it will hit more than 1% so do not worry about it (And that only if you have like 5,000 watts of inverter sucking power).

[doughere]

If you ground it at both 14 and 15, the 4 batteries at the 15 end will wind up carrying more of the load. Grounded at 14 only will give a better balance.


Doug