Is my converter dead?

[jornvango]

We are camped in a full hookup RV park with our Casita trailer. After going out for errands this afternoon, we returned to our trailer to find everything in the trailer dead. The fridge, lights, ... all dead.

Here's what I did:
1) I checked the campground 30A pedestal and it was OK.
2) Then I unplugged the electrical cord from the pedestal to see if our RV battery would get everything going again: no deal. Everything still dead.
3) I checked the battery with my multi-meter and nothing, dead.
4) I checked the converter's fuses in the RV and both fuses had blown. I changed out both 30A fuses.
5) Thinking at this point that the converter died sometime these past few days, I replaced the RV battery. OK, everything (fridge, lighting) is working again. The battery I bought at Autozone shows 12.2V so it's a little low.
6) I plugged the RV back into the 30A campground pedestal and the battery still shows 12.2V so it looks like the converter isn't charging the RV battery. I checked the fuses and they're OK. I checked the RV electrical panel and used my multi-meter to test the battery cables leaving from the panel (to go to the batteries): 12.2V so this (I think) tells me the converter isn't charging the battery.
7) Final note: throughout all this time, the camper's 110V outlets worked, even before I replaced the dead battery.

I think I have two questions:

Question 1: My electrical knowledge is (very) low so, based on the above, am I correct to assume that the converter is dead?

For the time being, I plugged in our portable solar panel to keep the RV battery charged and we're still plugged into the RV park pedestal so we can charge our laptops and devices using the 110V outlets in the RV.

Question 2: when the fridge is turned to 'gas', it uses propane and a minimum of battery power to run. When I plug the RV into the 30A park pedestal, the fridge automatically switches to 'AC'. Does this run on 110V OR does this use the battery?
Reason I ask is that until we can get the converter replaced, I want to minimize RV battery usage since our solar panel is pretty small. I don't want to have the fridge on 'AC' if that uses the battery for its entire operation.

Thanks!!

[jornvango]

Update: I installed a new Progressive Dynamics converter series 4600 today and everything is working again. I also installed the optional remote control for the converter which shows what the converter is doing at any given moment (what stage of charging it is in).

Before I installed the converter, the battery was a 12.6V (thanks to the solar panel). Once I turned on the new converter, it jumped to 13.4V and it's been in the converter's 'normal' stage of charging since then.

[Gjac]

You do have a multimeter so I would check the voltage right at the converter itself or where it enters your 12v fuse panel and see what you read. If you read 13.6 v or so your converter is functioning. If you are only reading 12.2v at the battery or 0v with the battery terminals disconnected then I would suspect a blown fuse or a break in the wires going to the battery. I assume your battery disconnect switch is on and your solenoids are working because you said your 120v plugs work and refer works. So what voltage reading do you get right at the converter?

[dedmiston]

Our last trailer had an inline fuse tucked in under the frame. The fuse blew twice and the holder burned and melted once (the final time). After that, I ran a new larger line from the batteries to the fuse panel and never had trouble again.

[time2roll]

jornvango wrote:
No, the old (now dead) battery was AGM so no one has touched that battery since I installed it in Jan '19.

Very short life for AGM. Probably undercharged the entire time and this episode killed it.

+1 to replace Parallax converter with PD4600 or equivalent.

http://www.bestconverter.com/PD4635V-35-Amp-Converter-Upgrade

[vermilye]

It is likely your Casita is equipped with a Parallax Series 7100 Power Center. Many Casita owners have had a problem with this converter - a pair of capacitors (black cans) break off from the circuit board due to road vibration. This results in the output of the converter dropping to 4V - 6V. As wa8yxm suggests, changing out the bottom section to a Progressive Dynamics 4600 is a good solution if you find the converter voltage is low.

[2oldman]

You can use any standard car battery charger.

[wa8yxm]

First you said you replaced both 30 amp fuses. DID you unplug BEFORE you replaced them? The reason I ask is that you may really have a 60 amp fuse and if your replace them one at a time with power on they just blow again You must UNPLUG (or disable the converter. easiest way is trip the main breaker) for a period first.. Then replace them.

A test light is your friend when replacing those fuses (Use it to make sure the)

Blown 30 amp fuses suggests either battery installed backwards or shorted cells or a serious short in the converter (in order of how common they are the last rare)

IF it turns out the converter module is shorted the Progressive Dynamics 4600 series replaces just the converter portion of an intergrated power distribution panel/converter.. the 9200 series is for stand alone. These are the best in my not very humble opinion.

[jornvango]

When I connect the running car, the battery level jumps up to 13V (so it's charging). When I unplug the car, battery goes back down to 12.2 so it appears the converter isn't doing anything.

No, the old (now dead) battery was AGM so no one has touched that battery since I installed it in Jan '19.

[time2roll]

I do think finding the converter fuses open in item #4 to be very odd. Usually a converter just dies quietly.
Even if there was a power surge it would be odd to have 60+ amps into a charged battery.
These main fuses are often called reverse polarity fuses as in battery connected in reverse.... any chance there was battery service before this event?

May as well pull the converter out and bench test. You would be looking for about 13.6 volts output.

[Old-Biscuit]

cavie wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
OP says he gets 12v with the new battery so the "battery fuse/CB" must be ok.

you must separate the battery from the converter. Otherwise, we don't know if he is measuring the battery voltage or the converter voltage.

OP checked the new battery voltage then plugged back into the CG 30A

5) Thinking at this point that the converter died sometime these past few days, I replaced the RV battery. OK, everything (fridge, lighting) is working again. The battery I bought at Autozone shows 12.2V so it's a little low.
6) I plugged the RV back into the 30A campground pedestal and the battery still shows 12.2V so it looks like the converter isn't charging the RV battery

[pianotuna]

Check the breaker that feeds the converter. Turn it off (press firmly) then switch it back on.

[cavie]

BFL13 wrote:
OP says he gets 12v with the new battery so the "battery fuse/CB" must be ok.

you must separate the battery from the converter. Otherwise, we don't know if he is measuring the battery voltage or the converter voltage.

[time2roll]

You did everything except check the voltage of the converter output. Everything points to a bad converter so far.

If this will take some time to sort out consider buying a portable automatic battery charger to get you through for a while. Get 5 amps minimum and 10+ amps is better. Connect direct on the battery. Don't forget an extension cord if needed.

If you can post the converter model number or at least the number off the electric panel you will get best suggestions for replacement.

[BFL13]

OP says he gets 12v with the new battery so the "battery fuse/CB" must be ok.