Is there a problem with electric Heater VS. Propane?

[mflanagan]

I was wondering if there is any difference in using an electric heater versus the Propane heat? We will be staying where it may dip slightly below freezing at night but up into the 60's during the day. Our TT does not have heated tanks or a sealed underbelly.

Does using the propane heater help with keeping things from freezing that an electric heater would not?

I would prefer not to burn through all that propane if there's no reason to do so. Id rather used the electric heater at night...

Thanks
Mike

[mlts22]

I have similar -- the furnace blows air onto the tanks so they don't freeze, so I end up using LP gas. The good thing is that all the combustibles (including water) are exhausted outside of the TT, so the air inside doesn't get affected.

If I had to save propane and had electricity available, one idea I might do, would be to put a Vornado or other heater that blows warm (not hot) air under the TT, then use another electric heater inside.

[mflanagan]

Im Pretty sure our tanks are not Heated on the model Rockwood we have (2602). Im curious how the furnace heats the tanks and pipes on some models?

Is it a problem to run a single 1500w heater in the camper (not continuously)? I mean as far as the outlet and wiring are concerned. We have no kids or pets in the camper to kick it over...

Thanks
Mike

[ryanallie1]

Hi All.

They bothe each have their own uses. EWe motly do all Boon-Docking, in the past 45+ years.

We are very well set-up to be off the Grid. The only thing that we don't feel a need for is "Soalr Panels", do to the kind of areas that we Boon-Dock in, and where we spend most of or time at. Even "Protable Solar Panels" isn't for us. One thing, is neither of us like the direct sun. As we both burn like Lobsterss and have had our share of Skin Cancers, and Surgies.

As a matter of fact, we have 4 ea Ceramic Heaters, of different out-puts. Some as low as 100 watts to the normal 1500 Watts, with lower setting in them as well.

We also have a Mr Heater "Buddy" and a Mr Heater "Big Buddy" and an Oly Wave #6 Propane Heaters.

And if you notice our Signature, we can even easily go past our Motorhomes 30 AMP Limits anytime we wish to. As we have more than enough "Generator Power" and then some.

We rearly use the Motorhomes Furnace, since it is really hard on a Battery Bank and eats Propame like there is no tomorrow. It may not be for everybody, but it sure has worked out good for us. Even keeping the Storage Compartments warm, espaically the Wet bay, really isn't an issue for us either.

And we can keep the inside of our Motorhome just about as warm as we want it to be. To each thier own. Both have their uses. Some of the best Boon-Docking is in the winter time. We use our Motorhome on/off all year long.

Good Luck. Happy Travels. Dan & Jill

[fla-gypsy]

doughere wrote:
We camp in similar conditions; don't have heated tanks or enclosed underbelly. Use electric heat down to about freezing, if it won't keep up (hapens when it gets down to about 25), use propane to "top up".

Doug

x2

[wa8yxm]

I see two possible issues, both are easily addressed.

First: Electrical safety.. I use electric heat here, up to four 1500 watt heaters plus additional heat in the wet bays. (About 250 watts of light bulbs).

Some of the outlets if I plug a heater into 'em I get that old how insulation smell... Now I'v etaped over those, added heavy duty (15/20 amp) outlets fed with properly bent around a screw and tightened down 12ga wire But I worry about that hot wire smell.. It scares me and I don't scare easy.


The other issue is also mentioned above.. the wet bays.. Running the furnace vents hot air into the wet bays, thus helping water, remain liquid. (Wet bays have tanks and pipes that hold or carry water).

I added electric heat to those bays

I have a string of C-9 Christmas tree bulbs (these are the larger "Outdoor" lamps) 9 or 9.5 watts each, ending in a 100 watt rough service lamp. these are controlled by a Freeze Preventer outlet (it is a thermostatic outlet, turns on at 35 degrees)

I have seen the bay light up.

NOTE a 9 watt lamp works well in that string, lying right on the plastic floor of the enclosed bay. a 15 watt lamp,,, will melt plastic.

[skipnchar]

SOME trailers are sold as having "heated holding tanks" but the heat must come from the furnace. If THIS is the way yours is built, then using an electric would NOT provide heat to your enclosed belly as your furnace would. If your belly is NOT enclosed, it's a moot point and use any type of heat you like. Just remember that the SAFEST way to heat your RV is using the furnace. Electric is NEARLY as safe but still presents a fire hazard if something gets too close to the heater. Just use common sense and be careful with pets and children.
Good luck / Skip

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Replace the return air grill on the cabinet where the furnace is housed with a dual window fan. Add a thermostat to control it. That way the electric heat will look after the tanks and lines.

Chuck&Gail wrote:
On our TT the fresh water tank, both waste tanks, and waste valves are heated by FURNACE. So if it might get below freezing we use only the furnace. Risking frozen tanks and lines is not worth the gamble of using an electric heater for us.

If we are sure it will not freeze outside, we use an electric heater.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I'd advise replacing the outlet in the RV where you plan to use the heater. Or even better getting a 2nd heater and running both on the 750 watt setting.

mflanagan wrote:
Thanks all! I just wasn't sure if there was anything I was missing. Looks like I'll be saving a lil money by not using so much propane!

I got a 1500Watt ceramic heater with Temp settings Clearanced this spring.

Thanks again!
Mike

[Chuck_Gail]

On our TT the fresh water tank, both waste tanks, and waste valves are heated by FURNACE. So if it might get below freezing we use only the furnace. Risking frozen tanks and lines is not worth the gamble of using an electric heater for us.

If we are sure it will not freeze outside, we use an electric heater.

[mflanagan]

Thanks all! I just wasn't sure if there was anything I was missing. Looks like I'll be saving a lil money by not using so much propane!

I got a 1500Watt ceramic heater with Temp settings Clearanced this spring.

Thanks again!
Mike

[doughere]

We camp in similar conditions; don't have heated tanks or enclosed underbelly. Use electric heat down to about freezing, if it won't keep up (hapens when it gets down to about 25), use propane to "top up".

Doug

[camperpaul]

I use three heat sources:

Primary: 1500 Watt electric radiator with LUX WIN-100 thermostat set for 75°F.

Secondary: 1250 Watt 'milkhouse' heater with LUX WIN-100 set for 73°.

Backup: Propane furnace with thermostat set for 68°F.

Over the past heating season, the furnace only came on twice; the first time was was when I was moving between two different campgrounds, the other was when the 'milkhouse' heater failed in the middle of the night (OAT was ~10°F).

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Since there is no enclosed bottom, running propane heat has no advantages.

I prefer to run more than one electric heater with each having lower wattage than a single 1500 watt model.

[tpi]

We will be staying where it may dip slightly below freezing at night but up into the 60's during the day.

You may find the electric heater serves all your heating needs under these circumstances.