kinda rusty tow bits

[anon125]

should I just get emery cloth and sand them down and put a bit of oil to keep the rust away?
thanks all

[Bill_Diana]

Beard43 wrote:
I have a problem with my remote control mirrors on my Hurricane 32E. There is no power to the control switch. The schematic indicates a 1 amp fuse, but I cannot find it anywhere. I think it may be an in-line type, but can't see one in the power wire that I can access. Any ideas?

Thanks, Ron

Ron....

You will have much better luck getting an answer & help with your question if you start a new posting of your own. I see from your profile you are new to RV.net Just trying to help.

Bill

[Beard43]

I have a problem with my remote control mirrors on my Hurricane 32E. There is no power to the control switch. The schematic indicates a 1 amp fuse, but I cannot find it anywhere. I think it may be an in-line type, but can't see one in the power wire that I can access. Any ideas?

Thanks, Ron

[myredracer]

If you're going to upgrade to stainless steel, you *could* upgrade to a SS ball too. That's what I did and it stays nice and shiny. 🙂 Except in the camping season with grease and some dust/dirt on it, might as well be rusty. 😞

[anon125]

the parts are under the tow car. I can clip the pin into pliers type things to push it on the part.
thanks all

[Muddydogs]

Its not as big a deal using locking hitch pins on WDH since a WDH hitch is usually removed between tows but its still a good idea to make sure you have room to cut the locking hitch pin off if ever you need to. The locking hitch pins tend to get gunked up to the point of not unlocking when left in place to long or they collect a bunch of mud and crud when traveling wet muddy roads. Before I got an RV I had a convert a ball hitch I used to tow everything well when I went to remove it after a year on the truck the lock would not unlock for nothing so out came the Saws All to solve the problem. I probably cut 5 of these locking hitch pins off my fleet truck a year as well as a few coupler locks off of trailers that got stuck after a wet or muddy road trip.

[onemilmhz]

Lynnmor wrote:

anon125 wrote:
Thanks but there so way we could get under the he car to put those locks on the end!

That Curt locking pin has a 1/2" version with a sleeve, I wouldn't use that one.

I just noticed that. I found the link on my phone last night and didn't see it. THIS ONE is what I have. Price is a little better as well. I think I paid around $20 when I got mine. I agree that if you can reach under to secure the pins on a standard pin you should be able to secure the locks on this type.

[joebedford]

Those are off a 5th wheel hitch?

[Lynnmor]

anon125 wrote:
Thanks but there so way we could get under the he car to put those locks on the end!

If you can push the clip on a pin, then you can place the lock on a pin.

That Curt locking pin has a 1/2" version with a sleeve, I wouldn't use that one. I do like the shouldered type of pin because the bent type wears the hole on the receiver.

[anon125]

Thanks but there so way we could get under the he car to put those locks on the end!

[onemilmhz]

Stainless Locking Hitch Pin

This is what I got several years ago. It has outlasted two trucks and three campers! A little pricey but gives me peace of mind, security and longevity.

[anon125]

thanks all
I have never seen them at $2 !!
how would I know better quality?
everything now is made in china!
stainless steel?
what are the called so I cam google them?
thanks all

[westend]

Yes, it looks like the plating has already worn away in spots so your maintenance idea seems good. If you want a better rust preventative than oil, there are various rust preventers that do a better job than oil but we are talking about a $2 pin here.

[robatthelake]

Those are still OK to use ,but As others have said , buy some better quality pins wheneverYou get a chance!
We use one that has a Key Locking feature and another that uses the Pin!

[ScottG]

That's just superficial, I'd just ignore it.